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Cleaning Rosewood Fretboard

Hey guys, i know there are many threads asking this same question, but i looked through a lot of them, and i wanted to get a more specific answer. I have a Ibanez Soundgear SR500, i got it in 2007, and have played the hell out of it. Recently one of my strings broke as i was tuning for tenor bass, so i decided to take them all of and do some spring cleaning ;) Do you think 4 years without a cleaning is bad for the rosewood? There is no buildup of anything on the frets or the wood. Ive heard to wipe the fretboard with a little bit of lemon oil on a rag. Is this necessary if i dont see much of any shmutz? There is just some dust that got in the nooks and cranny's close to the frets. If someone could explain a process that they have done many times before, and is confident about how it works on the fretboard i would be very grateful.
Thanks,
Dean
 
So mineral oil will not damage a rosewood fingerboard in any way? Because i have a whole bottle of that stuff. I use it for my fingerboard on my upright bass. So I should just put a little bit of mineral oil on a clean rag, or ripped white T-Shirt, and just whipe it onto the fretboard?

If you are already using it on your upright, why be worried. I read about the Mineral oil on a guitar website. It seems to me that all the oils have detractors, but the key is to choose one that will not go rancid. Mineral oil will not go rancid. Additionally, if it is non-toxic, I can drink all I want :scowl:

taylor guitar recommends mineral oil.

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If you are already using it on your upright, why be worried. I read about the Mineral oil on a guitar website. It seems to me that all the oils have detractors, but the key is to choose one that will not go rancid. Mineral oil will not go rancid. Additionally, if it is non-toxic, I can drink all I want :scowl:

taylor guitar recommends mineral oil.

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Well my upright dosen't have a rosewood fingerboard, thats why im a little worried. But if mineral oil will work, im gunna give it a shot, and see how it comes out. Thanks
 
The scotchbrite pad or steel wool helps open up the pores of the wood a little bit, just make sure you use a fine enough one, rubbing with the grain of course. I like to run down the back as well but that's just personal preference. My fingerboard and neck are wenge though. I use the formby's lemon oil myself.
I've heard from others on here that many "lemon oils" are actually made from mineral oil with some lemon scent and coloring added, but I don't know how true that is or for what brands.
 
Lemon oil is basically scented mineral oil. It does not cure and form a film and will evaporate over time. Linseed oil, boiled or raw, will oxidize and form a thin film, rather like a very thin coat of varnish. Linseed oil is a traditional furniture and gunstock finish.
Over time too much linseed will start to show and change the feel and appearance of the rosewood.
 
Some woods like wenge, bubinga, or rosewood have natural oils in them and don't require a finish to protect them and keep out moisture and contaminants. If you were to leave maple bare, it would get dirty and stained really fast, plus an unfinished maple neck has a much greater chance or warping.