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Club Sadowsky!!!

#34,742
Chef said:
If you love the HiBeams try the pickups as thumbrest.
Otherwise, I love the Sadowsky Blue Steels. Love 'em.
Click to expand...

Using the string as a thumbrest actually helps diminish the effect of the B snapping into the frets. It really seems to be a tension issue that I'm hoping a hex core string will fix. I can't say I've heard anything but good things about the Blues. Hmph - should have just let the guys at the shop do what they do (deliver the bass with Blues) instead of imposing my will! :p
 
#34,744
bass12 said:
I have a question for anyone who uses DR Hi-Beams on their Sadowsky 5s. I've been finding that the B is a little floppy and that this is mainly an issue when I pluck the E string and my finger then rests on the B (causing the B to move and hit the frets - not my favourite sound). The action's where I like it so I'm thinking a string with less flexibility might do the trick. Has anyone else had this issue with Hi-Beams (they work great on my 35" Lull) or other round core strings? I'd never used the Bi-Beams on a 34" bass before so I'm assuming the scale might be a factor here.
Click to expand...
A couple things...

First, no offense, but a technique change is probably the best solution. Lighten up on the anchor pressure if you can. Even better, if you can develop the floating thumb technique, but I'd have the same critique for myself on that one. Still working on it. Full disclosure, I also sometimes anchor off the B when I'm not anchoring on a pickup shell. But I have worked hard to not require a lot of pressure.

But other than that, if you want to stay with DR SS strings, and just want something stiffer than the HiBeams, try some LoRiders.
 
#34,745
bass12 said:
I have a question for anyone who uses DR Hi-Beams on their Sadowsky 5s. I've been finding that the B is a little floppy and that this is mainly an issue when I pluck the E string and my finger then rests on the B (causing the B to move and hit the frets - not my favourite sound). The action's where I like it so I'm thinking a string with less flexibility might do the trick. Has anyone else had this issue with Hi-Beams (they work great on my 35" Lull) or other round core strings? I'd never used the Bi-Beams on a 34" bass before so I'm assuming the scale might be a factor here.
Click to expand...

I had this problem with DRs on my Sadowsky's. (I tried Low Beams and Fat Beams). Switched to Sadowsky Blue Steels. Greatly improved feel and, to me, greatly improved tone.
 
#34,746
NeilGB said:
I had this problem with DRs on my Sadowsky's. (I tried Low Beams and Fat Beams). Switched to Sadowsky Blue Steels. Greatly improved feel and, to me, greatly improved tone.
Click to expand...
I love DRs, but I do also love the SS Blues, and the SSBs are what I use most currently on my Sadowsky basses. FWIW.
 
#34,747
Bass Collector said:
Love my Koa Std 4, amazing bass! :bassist:

IMG_1144.jpg


Sadowsky4.jpg
Click to expand...

One of the best looking Sadowskys ever!
 
#34,748
bass12 said:
Using the string as a thumbrest actually helps diminish the effect of the B snapping into the frets. It really seems to be a tension issue that I'm hoping a hex core string will fix. I can't say I've heard anything but good things about the Blues. Hmph - should have just let the guys at the shop do what they do (deliver the bass with Blues) instead of imposing my will! :p
Click to expand...

I have Sun Beams on my Sadowsky 5-string and I HAVE
noticed that the B is floppy. I like the sound of round cores
over hex cores though. I use mostly the pickguard to anchor
my thumb though. I never use another string as an anchor.
 
#34,749
mozilla314 said:
I have Sun Beams on my Sadowsky 5-string and I HAVE
noticed that the B is floppy. I like the sound of round cores
over hex cores though. I use mostly the pickguard to anchor
my thumb though. I never use another string as an anchor.
Click to expand...

I agree with Vic that a change of technique is in order. Trust me, I know how you feel. For years I mostly played hard rock on stiff strings. Then other styles (pop, country, blues) became as prevalent so I decided to put TI Jazz Flats on a bass. Talk about ultra low tension! I decided that learning to lighten my touch was far preferable to raising action significantly. It took some time to adjust, but it's a good thing. I still hit the hex cores hard for rock, but am far more comfortable with a light touch on flexible strings (I prefer that term to "floppy" in this scenario). :) The Sadowsky blue labels sound great, but they qualify as flexible.
 
#34,751
bass12 said:
I have a question for anyone who uses DR Hi-Beams on their Sadowsky 5s. I've been finding that the B is a little floppy and that this is mainly an issue when I pluck the E string and my finger then rests on the B (causing the B to move and hit the frets - not my favourite sound). The action's where I like it so I'm thinking a string with less flexibility might do the trick. Has anyone else had this issue with Hi-Beams (they work great on my 35" Lull) or other round core strings? I'd never used the Bi-Beams on a 34" bass before so I'm assuming the scale might be a factor here.
Click to expand...

I have the same problem with Hi-Beams on my Sadowsky. I alternate between Hi-Beams and Lo-Riders, don't have that problem at all with Lo-Riders.

I think it's just a combination of the flexibility of the Hi-Beams (which is a reason I love them), the Sadowsky pickups being pretty hot, and my heavy right hand - I use a good deal of pressure on my anchor thumb, and I dig in hard with my fingers because I love the tone of a jazz bass when digging in hard.
 
#34,752
vision said:
I have the same problem with Hi-Beams on my Sadowsky. I alternate between Hi-Beams and Lo-Riders, don't have that problem at all with Lo-Riders.

I think it's just a combination of the flexibility of the Hi-Beams (which is a reason I love them), the Sadowsky pickups being pretty hot, and my heavy right hand - I use a good deal of pressure on my anchor thumb, and I dig in hard with my fingers because I love the tone of a jazz bass when digging in hard.
Click to expand...

This does not pertain to any particular brand, but I am not a fan of round core strings....very easy for the wrap to come loose from the core and sound like a screen door spring.

Roger
 
#34,754
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

gridchin said:
Hi guys!

Sorry for the off-topic, but I want to be part of Sadowsky family again :)

I would like to trade my new Fbass BNF6 for a Sadowsky NYC 5 Standard with Birdseye Maple or Ebony fingerboard. The Sadowsky should be in similar new conditions. For additional info on the Fbass please visit this website:

http://basschat.co.uk/topic/209582-fsft-new-f-bass-bnf6-3200-euro/

or PM me: [email protected]

Cheers!

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
Click to expand...
 
#34,755
Chef said:
I agree that technique can help a lot here!

And, if you want to, you could lower the neck pickup a hair, and raise that bridge saddle a hair.

Better technique would be, well, better ;)
Click to expand...

I figured technique would be mentioned. I do have pretty solid technique and I'm not a really hard plucker. I tried applying an even softer touch but even that wasn't producing the desired effect. The thing is, I don't have this issue with any of my other 5 strings (all of which are 35" scale). If I did then I would look harder at the issue of technique. As it stands I think it's more a matter of finding strings that are a little less elastic than the Hi-Beams. I tried out some Lo-Riders on my Lull and found they were a bit more scooped in the mids than what I was looking for. I love the MTD strings (and have a stack of them here) so I might give those a whirl. If those don't work out then I'll probably order some Blues. Thanks for all the replies!
 
#34,756
Maybe different strings will scratch your particular itch; I don't know. I happen to favor the DR Hi Beams and have used them on many 5 strings, including one of Roger's.

Don't know if I am just describing what Vic referred to as floating thumb or not; but, for a variety of reasons, I have found it necessary on the 5 to mute the B when playing pizz by laying my picking hand thumb across the top of the string and picking more parallel to the fingerboard rather than driving the strings into the board.

I actually used to break my lower strings at the bridge doing the pizz attack you are describing; so, it took quite the adjustment. I still tend to anchor on the 4, but "float" on the 5/6. Different instruments. For me, it was definitely a technique solution.
 
#34,757
bucephylus said:
Maybe different strings will scratch your particular itch; I don't know. I happen to favor the DR Hi Beams and have used them on many 5 strings, including one of Roger's.

Don't know if I am just describing what Vic referred to as floating thumb or not; but, for a variety of reasons, I have found it necessary on the 5 to mute the B when playing pizz by laying my picking hand thumb across the top of the string and picking more parallel to the fingerboard rather than driving the strings into the board.

I actually used to break my lower strings at the bridge doing the pizz attack you are describing; so, it took quite the adjustment. I still tend to anchor on the 4, but "float" on the 5/6. Different instruments. For me, it was definitely a technique solution.
Click to expand...
Floating thumb technique wouldn't solve the problem as there would then be even less of a barrier between the B string and the fretboard (by resting my thumb on the B I can prevent the string from moving at that particular point). But regardless, given that I haven't had this issue with any of my other 5 string basses I wouldn't be willing to totally readjust what is a perfectly functional technique. I'll just try some different strings and go from there. :)
 

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