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Club Sadowsky!!!

Here is the finished top in all it's glory!

9083588960_10bd3f7668_c.png

Beautiful! :cool:
 
Hey George! Yes you are partially responsible for this! Starting with the awesome Metro PJ5 that you sold me and then it was actually #6032 on your website that this build has been heavily influenced by.

Here is the finished top in all it's glory!

9083588960_10bd3f7668_c.png

Ben,

OMG !!!! :eek:

Mate this Sadowsky is going to kill. I can see the similarity with #6032 with the addition of the "Will Lee twist". Can't wait to hear your thoughts when you finally get to play it. Gota say though, Roger and Kevin really pick some amazing Koa tops, your's being one of the best I've seen and couple others I've seen down here in Oz!
 
It's not routed for PG though. Imagine a control plate made out of the fingerboard type of wood, with no PG... Or, am I pushing it too far for a Sadowsky :p
I've seen wooden plates/guards before and IMHO they just don't look right.

My vote would be chrome plate with a clear guard.
 
IMO all figured tops look best with no pg, no control plate. A clear pg to me looks like what my grandparents used to do to their furniture- wrap it in clear plastic covers to "preserve" it. Some people did the same thing to their front car seats. Yuck. I still remember sticking to that stuff. Another analogy comes to mind- pocket protectors. You know the folks who used them.

Figured tops need to strut their stuff, not hide it, or protect themselves from whatever.
 
IMO all figured tops look best with no pg, no control plate. A clear pg to me looks like what my grandparents used to do to their furniture- wrap it in clear plastic covers to "preserve" it. Some people did the same thing to their front car seats. Yuck. I still remember sticking to that stuff. Another analogy comes to mind- pocket protectors. You know the folks who used them.

Figured tops need to strut their stuff, not hide it, or protect themselves from whatever.

Agree completely. NO PG will be best.
 
Do your own thing man... Guaranteed to be the best :D

We all know what happens to design by committee :eek:

Yes, thank you. Very blessed. It is my 40th b'day present and a culmination of many years of admiring Sadowsky basses!

The top is Koa on Ash.

Before the build commenced, I photoshopped about a dozen of the matergrade tops (at scale) and carefully considered what a guard would and would not actually cover. It's going to be alright. Thanks everyone for your concern!
 
IMO all figured tops look best with no pg, no control plate. A clear pg to me looks like what my grandparents used to do to their furniture- wrap it in clear plastic covers to "preserve" it. Some people did the same thing to their front car seats. Yuck. I still remember sticking to that stuff. Another analogy comes to mind- pocket protectors. You know the folks who used them.

Figured tops need to strut their stuff, not hide it, or protect themselves from whatever.

Agreed, but if you refer to that particular bass you gotta consider it'll have a control plate no matter what.
 
How about an original P shaped plate. (similar to the shape of the route)
As a side note, I personally see no problem with a PG. Sometimes silk stockings & a garter bring out the best of the rest. :D
B.

Nice analogy Blair and excellent insight! This kind of sums up my rationale well actually.

When you look closely at the parts that the guard will cover there is a couple of areas that are a bit different and/or a bit distracting from the main flame pattern and the counter grain pattern. I reckon it will actually highlight the part you do see even better... we shall see!
 
I have a question for anyone who uses DR Hi-Beams on their Sadowsky 5s. I've been finding that the B is a little floppy and that this is mainly an issue when I pluck the E string and my finger then rests on the B (causing the B to move and hit the frets - not my favourite sound). The action's where I like it so I'm thinking a string with less flexibility might do the trick. Has anyone else had this issue with Hi-Beams (they work great on my 35" Lull) or other round core strings? I'd never used the Bi-Beams on a 34" bass before so I'm assuming the scale might be a factor here.
 

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