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A quick shot of my new-to-me NYC modern jazz. It's the perfect complement to my MV5.
It's ash with flamed/spalted maple top, ebony board. I believe it's 60's position SC pickups. Chambered and weighs about 8 lb. It's in perfect condition, made in 2010.
My recommendation doesn't amount to a hill of beans next to Roger's, but I'll nevertheless heartily endorse Carl. I've been going to him for 7 years for all necessary work, and he is an amazing craftsman as well as a great guy. He still works part-time for Lakland (they're in the same building, FYI) while otherwise doing his own thing.
LOL!Vic,
do you mean that to put a shime is a good thing ?
Or do you warrenty pickles ?
(or Pickles is right ?)
Sorry guys my english a bit short....
A quick shot of my new-to-me NYC modern jazz. It's the perfect complement to my MV5.
It's ash with flamed/spalted maple top, ebony board. I believe it's 60's position SC pickups. Chambered and weighs about 8 lb. It's in perfect condition, made in 2010.
Beautiful Bass.
Looks like whoever owned it before you spent some time soloing in the way upper registers, no?
You're going to laugh, but I always just cut a strip out of a business card for my shims. Shaped it to fit the heel end of the neck pocket, and made it only about maybe 10mm wide or so.
Ok, I don't usually get involved with this discussions, but since I love Sadowsky basses (owned several of them, still have one), I'd like to give my 2 cents concerning the issue "action not low enough",shimming, etc:
(disclaimer: IME/O)
1. file the bottom of the saddle so the string can go low enough.
This is the easiest, but the one I like the least = the break angle behind the saddle diminish creating a potential loss of down force and possibly thinning the sound.
2. shimming the neck.
This is the most common way with a lot of related misconceptions and drawbacks/neck deforming risk = most install the shim all the way to the bottom of the neck pocket - towards the bridge side - creating a high risk that in few months/years the neck develops a 'sky jump' at the last frets - been seeing this too many times. The right way (IME/O) is to install the shim where the two second/last mounting neck screws (close bridge side) so the pressure is on top of the shim and not creating a void that can flex.
3. filling/sending the neck pocket on the body (most expensive of the three).
This is my favorite way, it is permanent, but who's gonna reverse to a wrong setup? What I do is to create a tilted/slanted neck pocket surface so the neck sits tilted/slanted in respect to the body. Best contact surface - no void under the heel and no risk of sky jumps. It can be sanded to create even a little more action -raising that is - at the bridge.
Well, there you go
M
Agreed. I also don't really like the idea of altering the bridge such that the mass/coupling from string to string is inconsistent. Maybe it's no big deal, but I'd sweat over it a little.
Good point on the location. Any shims I do from now on will be there.
Definitely the best solution, but not one that could be done outside of a shop with special tools and/or jigs and LOTS of experience.
Ok, I don't usually get involved with this discussions, but since I love Sadowsky basses (owned several of them, still have one), I'd like to give my 2 cents concerning the issue "action not low enough",shimming, etc:
(disclaimer: IME/O)
1. file the bottom of the saddle so the string can go low enough.
This is the easiest, but the one I like the least = the break angle behind the saddle diminish creating a potential loss of down force and possibly thinning the sound.
2. shimming the neck.
This is the most common way with a lot of related misconceptions and drawbacks/neck deforming risk = most install the shim all the way to the bottom of the neck pocket - towards the bridge side - creating a high risk that in few months/years the neck develops a 'sky jump' at the last frets - been seeing this too many times. The right way (IME/O) is to install the shim where the two second/last mounting neck screws (close bridge side) so the pressure is on top of the shim and not creating a void that can flex.
3. filling/sending the neck pocket on the body (most expensive of the three).
This is my favorite way, it is permanent, but who's gonna reverse to a wrong setup? What I do is to create a tilted/slanted neck pocket surface so the neck sits tilted/slanted in respect to the body. Best contact surface - no void under the heel and no risk of sky jumps. It can be sanded to create even a little more action -raising that is - at the bridge.
Well, there you go
M
