Exactly.wait. Baby Yoda is not cute? He’s stinkin’ cute.
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Exactly.wait. Baby Yoda is not cute? He’s stinkin’ cute.
You will know right away if you run a Sadowsky in active mode through an outboard preamp. The walls will crumble and law enforcement will respond.This week, I ordered and received a Sadowsky SBP-2 Preamp Pedal from the Sadowsky shop. Shipping was fast and the pedal is fabulous, I love it!
Now, I haven't played anything but my two Satin Sadowsky basses for two years solid, so you may be wondering WHY I'd play a Sadowsky bass through a Sadowsky preamp pedal (that has the same preamp as is in the bass itself).
I've always loved active basses (I'm a prior EBMM guy) and hated batteries. And I was putting together a small pedalboard anyways, since I'm playing a couple of songs now that require an Octave pedal for one and Overdrive for another. So I figured I'd see if moving the preamp from the innards of the bass (figuratively) to the floor would make a difference. I'm happy to report that the sound is pretty much identical to my ears. Sounds awesome, and I like how easy it is to see where I am from 1 to 10 on the dials of the pedal (insert Spinal Tap quote from Nigel here). I guess it would be possible to move the preamp to a different point of the signal chain too if someone was adventurous, but I like it right at the front, as if it was in the bass.
Just sharing in case anyone else had been wondering how that would work. It sounds the same and I'm battery-free. I'm sure I'm not the first to try it this way, but I hadn't seen it here in this thread since I've been hanging around. It's a viable option if you are so inclined.
There have recently been multiple threads, decrying the evils of batteries. Seems like there is a concerted action in progress by a significant fraction of players against batteries in basses.This week, I ordered and received a Sadowsky SBP-2 Preamp Pedal from the Sadowsky shop. Shipping was fast and the pedal is fabulous, I love it!
Now, I haven't played anything but my two Satin Sadowsky basses for two years solid, so you may be wondering WHY I'd play a Sadowsky bass through a Sadowsky preamp pedal (that has the same preamp as is in the bass itself).
I've always loved active basses (I'm a prior EBMM guy) and hated batteries. And I was putting together a small pedalboard anyways, since I'm playing a couple of songs now that require an Octave pedal for one and Overdrive for another. So I figured I'd see if moving the preamp from the innards of the bass (figuratively) to the floor would make a difference. I'm happy to report that the sound is pretty much identical to my ears. Sounds awesome, and I like how easy it is to see where I am from 1 to 10 on the dials of the pedal (insert Spinal Tap quote from Nigel here). I guess it would be possible to move the preamp to a different point of the signal chain too if someone was adventurous, but I like it right at the front, as if it was in the bass.
Just sharing in case anyone else had been wondering how that would work. It sounds the same and I'm battery-free. I'm sure I'm not the first to try it this way, but I hadn't seen it here in this thread since I've been hanging around. It's a viable option if you are so inclined.
Weakest link, perhaps?
My second entry for club Sadowsky. An 8 pound 5 string its hard to believe and the satin finish is so smooth. I guess I thought the finish would have a chalky feel. So far I love it. Its my first white bass I was never to big on the white color in the past but I really like the look with the maple board. So far I am hitting home runs with Sadowsky. The tone on both of the basses is just killer. It must be the pre-amp.![]()
Speaking of batteries, I have an ignorant question. For years I’ve only been playing my fully active MTD basses it fully passive Fenders, until getting my Deluxe Satin this week. With an active/passive bass like a Sadowsky, does the battery get drained any time the instrument cable is plugged in like it does on a fully active bass? If so, is there a difference if it’s switched to passive?
I know I used to know the answer to this but I don’t remember.
Speaking of batteries, I have an ignorant question. For years I’ve only been playing my fully active MTD basses it fully passive Fenders, until getting my Deluxe Satin this week. With an active/passive bass like a Sadowsky, does the battery get drained any time the instrument cable is plugged in like it does on a fully active bass? If so, is there a difference if it’s switched to passive?
I know I used to know the answer to this but I don’t remember.
There have recently been multiple threads, decrying the evils of batteries. Seems like there is a concerted action in progress by a significant fraction of players against batteries in basses.
This actually has me somewhat baffled.
There is nothing wrong with having a battery in a bass at all. My post was sharing my positive experience with using a Sadowsky pedal preamp to get the same sound without keeping a battery in my particular bass.There have recently been multiple threads, decrying the evils of batteries. Seems like there is a concerted action in progress by a significant fraction of players against batteries in basses.
This actually has me somewhat baffled. I just changed out the battery in one of my Sadowsky preamp loaded basses that sees regular action after 30 months of pretty regular use. The voltage was down to 8.3V; but, the preamp was still going strong. I don’t really consider that a major maintenance concern.
No offense intended; but, I am genuinely curious where the issue is? Of course, each to their own; and there are certainly multiple ways to get a useful signal chain. What is problematic about having a battery in a bass?
Check; and REALLY didn’t intend to single you out. Just that some other threads had me curious.There is nothing wrong with having a battery in a bass at all. My post was sharing my positive experience with using a Sadowsky pedal preamp to get the same sound without keeping a battery in my particular bass.
To answer your question of where the issue is, by getting the battery out of my bass and using a pedal as part of a wired pedalboard, I get the following changes that are positive for me:
I will grant that all three of those are likely no big deal to most users.
- I don't have to unplug my bass every night
- My bass is one battery weight lighter
- My output jack gets a couple of hundred less engagements per year
The only time I've had a bass fail onstage was a MusicMan Stingray when the output jack failed during the first set of a club gig. I had a crappy backup bass on hand and got through the gig, but it sucked and then I had to get it repaired, etc. In my mind, unplugging every night to save a battery might have had a small part in that moveable part failing. Maybe not, but if I can cut down on that thing, why not?
I have a bad back. Every ounce off the shoulders counts.
This idea is not for everyone or even maybe anyone else, but it worked for me and thus I shared it. That's all. No anti-battery conspiracy.

@Nomogram, So using the bass passive with no battery installed means the VTC knob always pulled up? If you accidentally press it down you're muted?
Yes, and yes.@Nomogram, So using the bass passive with no battery installed means the VTC knob always pulled up? If you accidentally press it down you're muted?
Yes, absolutely. But I love my MV5 in passive mode, no battery in my bass. I never „accidentally muted“ it- so no problem there.@Nomogram, So using the bass passive with no battery installed means the VTC knob always pulled up? If you accidentally press it down you're muted?
There is an optimum relief setting for low action. To little relief will cause buzz on the lower frets and too much on the higher frets. It is a matter of experimenting with different relief settings to achieve the lowest height possible.A little setup advice perhaps?
I wanted to lower the action on the new Lexus pearl white TYO Modern Edge 4 with roasted neck, so I checked the relief. Flat. I was thinking maybe 0.08" would be good. Went to loosen the truss rod a touch and found that it turned very freely in the counterclockwise direction. Managed to get just a hair of relief at the 7th fret (capo at 1st and fretted at 15th), with action height of 4/64" across the strings measured at the 12th fret. I prefer slightly lower. Is this as good as it gets?
This bass looks so great, sounds so fantastic, and even with medium-low action, plays itself. Heaven help me, I was a P bass guy through and through. I am starting to think this might be (almost) the only bass I need. So optimizing the setup would be good. Any suggestions are appreciated.
Absolutely. The geometry is key. Yet my choices seem to be no relief, or just a tiny sliver. Guess I will go with the tiny sliver. May be that the roasted neck is stiffer and more resistant to string tension than the typical neck.There is an optimum relief setting for low action. To little relief will cause buzz on the lower frets and too much on the higher frets. It is a matter of experimenting with different relief settings to achieve the lowest height possible.