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Club Sadowsky!!!

The pop-up battery compartments are horrible. They always fail eventually. They seem like a good idea on paper but they just don't last. I'm glad Roger has moved away from them.

Wow, everyone seems to be hip to this but me. I owned an EBMM for ten years no problem and my Alleva has one (haven't had it long though)

battery lasts six months approx so your talking 2x per year that's open and closed 50 times in 25 years, they're that fragile?

just curious....
 
Wow, everyone seems to be hip to this but me. I owned an EBMM for ten years no problem and my Alleva has one (haven't had it long though)

battery lasts six months approx so your talking 2x per year that's open and closed 50 times in 25 years, they're that fragile?

just curious....
I'm guessing the issue is in your calculations... regarding full-time players, where batteries may not last that long. I also don't know if there's a mechanical issue if the bass gets shook around a lot like if it's in a decent case, but still gets shook up on a bus or truck or something on tour. Just spitballin' that second thought.

For players like me, it'd probably never be an issue, but I can see something like that being an issue for a touring bassist. Especially if you have a guitar tech that checks the battery before every gig, which I think would be very smart.
 
Especially if you have a guitar tech that checks the battery before every gig, which I think would be very smart.

+1
Also, the solder joints on the plastic pop-ups fail many times. The batteries are held (and connect to) in pressure by a little pieces of soft metal which over time gets"tired" and does not push the battery good enough. Sometimes a little pressure on the battery compartment (from the outside while it's closed, say your belt..) can cause electrical pops in the signal.
 
I'm guessing the issue is in your calculations... regarding full-time players, where batteries may not last that long. I also don't know if there's a mechanical issue if the bass gets shook around a lot like if it's in a decent case, but still gets shook up on a bus or truck or something on tour. Just spitballin' that second thought.

For players like me, it'd probably never be an issue, but I can see something like that being an issue for a touring bassist. Especially if you have a guitar tech that checks the battery before every gig, which I think would be very smart.

Never had a problem with the basses I have with these type of compartments. I love them, and per your comment, even when I was playing 6 nights a week, a battery would last AT LEAST 6 months, so you are talking 2 openings a year.

I would like to see every bass use these myself, or AT LEAST the separate compartment thing with a couple of screws like Mike Tobias. Maybe that's the best solution of all... still easier than taking the large compartment cover off and digging out the battery, but more 'sturdy' than the pop ups (although again, I've never had any issue at all with them, over a period of years and lot's of use with a number of basses... Celinder, Music Man, etc.)

IMO and IME.
 
I would like to see ... AT LEAST the separate compartment thing with a couple of screws like Mike Tobias. Maybe that's the best solution of all... still easier than taking the large compartment cover off and digging out the battery...
IMHO having a separate compartment isn't any better than what Roger does, except it's 1 or 2 extra screws, and if it only has to be done a couple times a year (I still at least challenge that for a touring bass player with a guitar tech, tho) then that should be moot. I think the real key is, wherever the battery is, it needs to have machine screws and inserts so there are no wood threads to wear out.
 
I dont mind the OLD style chrome Battery compartment on the pre EB musicmans.. and some early EB models.
I did have a failure on my 97 stingray and it has the flip open compartment ... i knew what it was and popped the back of the bass and it re seated..

The problem i found is that the small copper flexible springs connectors on the flip out box loose contact tension.. im not sure it it is the copper coated contacts themselves or the way they are seated into the plastic housing...which causes looseness..
I have not had an issue with my AC yet..

But i am so glad that my Sadowsky has the heavy clip on type.. that will last longer than i will..

I change my battery about once a year in my sadowsky.. i do run it passive most of the time though.... but when i pulled the old battery it was still working and sounded OK through my amp... but the thing was almost dead.... I better check it more like every 6 months or so...
 
IMHO having a separate compartment isn't any better than what Roger does, except it's 1 or 2 extra screws, and if it only has to be done a couple times a year (I still at least challenge that for a touring bass player with a guitar tech, tho) then that should be moot. I think the real key is, wherever the battery is, it needs to have machine screws and inserts so there are no wood threads to wear out.

+1 I still prefer to not open the main control cavity with all the wires and stuff (and a couple of screws is better than 6, even twice a year IMO!). It's better for most not to get in there. Roger's 'compartment within a compartment' is the best of these designs, but is still the 'winner of a race among pigs' to me:D

Small issue though. I greatly prefer the pop ups!
 
I greatly prefer the pop ups!
From a strictly convenience point of view, I have to agree. They are nice. I can't really speak to the reliability issues, because like you, on my basses that have them, my need to open and close it is so rare I don't require much durability. I'm just assuming the reliability issues are there, since Roger moved away from them, and I'd find it hard to believe it'd be a manufacturing cost concern for him.
 
I change my battery about once a year in my sadowsky.. i do run it passive most of the time though.... but when i pulled the old battery it was still working and sounded OK through my amp... but the thing was almost dead.... I better check it more like every 6 months or so...
Just so you know, running in passive mode does NOT cut power to the preamp. It might reduce consumption, but probably not by much.
 
So... when do you guys change batteries typically in your basses? I have 6 active basses and I know many of you have a lot more basses than I have. What I normally do is change my batteries once a year on a certain date, typically Jan 1, even if they don't need to be changed quite yet. But it keeps me from having to remember which bass had batteries changed on what date.
 
So... when do you guys change batteries typically in your basses? I have 6 active basses and I know many of you have a lot more basses than I have. What I normally do is change my batteries once a year on a certain date, typically Jan 1, even if they don't need to be changed quite yet. But it keeps me from having to remember which bass had batteries changed on what date.

I do the same thing, but every 6 months. I probably don't need to, but then there is never an issue.
 
So... when do you guys change batteries typically in your basses? I have 6 active basses and I know many of you have a lot more basses than I have. What I normally do is change my batteries once a year on a certain date, typically Jan 1, even if they don't need to be changed quite yet. But it keeps me from having to remember which bass had batteries changed on what date.
I have a computer program where I log usage hours on each bass, and set variables for the preamp power consumption specification and the maH rating of the battery(ies) (some single, some dual battery systems). It also has a data input for a module I developed that plugs in-line with the guitar cord to read the rail voltage across the preamp as the bass is played a little (under load). Based on a timed-graph of measured rail voltage variation and power consumption calculations, It sends a text message to my blackberry when it's time to change a given bass.





(...jk...I just keep batteries handy when I go to gigs and swap them out if the bass seems to start acting funny)

:D :D :D :D
 
I have a computer program where I log usage hours on each bass, and set variables for the preamp power consumption specification and the maH rating of the battery(ies) (some single, some dual battery systems). It also has a data input for a module I developed that plugs in-line with the guitar cord to read the rail voltage across the preamp as the bass is played a little (under load). Based on a timed-graph of measured rail voltage variation and power consumption calculations, It sends a text message to my blackberry when it's time to change a given bass.





(...jk...I just keep batteries handy when I go to gigs and swap them out if the bass seems to start acting funny)

:D :D :D :D

What? :) Didn't even know that exists ;)
 
IMHO having a separate compartment isn't any better than what Roger does, except it's 1 or 2 extra screws, and if it only has to be done a couple times a year (I still at least challenge that for a touring bass player with a guitar tech, tho) then that should be moot. I think the real key is, wherever the battery is, it needs to have machine screws and inserts so there are no wood threads to wear out.

You Sadowsky nuts (and I am admittedly one myself;)) need to check out a Dingwall some time. Sheldon uses a magnetically retained plate for his separate battery compartments on most if not all of his models these days and they are simply the best solution to this problem I've ever seen. Two holes for thumb and forefinger, and you can pull the plate off with just a bit of resistance to overcome the magnetic force. Pop it back in when done. Works perfectly!

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I had my first gig last night with "orange" Crush (my Vintage J 24/5). Everyone said it was the best my sound has ever been. What an amazing bass. I always have band mates ask "Ok, much did you spend on this one?", usually followed by "It was worth every penny". Thanks, Roger, for another amazing bass.
 
You Sadowsky nuts (and I am admittedly one myself;)) need to check out a Dingwall some time.
I have, and that is a cool option (and Sheldon is a really cool and smart dude). Thing is, I can also see a non-functional point to be considered. Aesthetics. If you have a particularly nice piece of wood for the body, it looks a little nicer to have fewer "patches" on it. Dunno if it'd matter to me, but it might to some.
 
I have, and that is a cool option (and Sheldon is a really cool and smart dude). Thing is, I can also see a non-functional point to be considered. Aesthetics. If you have a particularly nice piece of wood for the body, it looks a little nicer to have fewer "patches" on it. Dunno if it'd matter to me, but it might to some.

Well, that may be true, although see the pic I added above with matching plate. Not a complete solution to your point, but not bad.