Coconut Oil?

[chris_b]

Would coconut oil be a good choice for treating a unfinished fretless fingerboard?

Doc, I think that would only work if you rubbed the rest of the curry sauce on as well.

 

[Wisebass]

hi Charlie

Food grade orange oil (i.e. no petroleum products as carrier) is even better for brownies. It's a very strong general purpose cleaner as well, but it can discolor plastics pretty badly in some cases.

Let 's hope that spidey ' s wife

doesn' t use plastic for her brownies!

greetings

Wise

 

[Kmonk]

I only use pure lemon oil.

 

[gip111]

Can someone educate me on how putting a surface shine on a fretboard or any piece of wood introduces moisture ( basically water) into it?

 

[Diddywah]

Can someone educate me on how putting a surface shine on a fretboard or any piece of wood introduces moisture ( basically water) into it?

Easy; it doesn't.

 

[MobileHolmes]

Ah, the list of in-your-face links that prove everything without any valid explanation.. What do you think these commercial links demonstrate? When so-called experts hope to sell me something, they are no longer experts, they are merchants..

I didn't read all of the links, but the first two are from high end builders with an interest in keeping their instruments nice. Sadowsky has been doing guitar repair and building for like 50 years now. And neither of them are trying to sell you anything. Sadowsky says to go to the hardware store, or use a brand of guitar polish he doesn't sell. Fodera recommends mineral oil from the pharmacy

 

[growlypants]

I use pure lemon oil, as recommended by Mica. (At Alembic!). Get it at a health-food store, and use your fingertip to apply. (A cloth wastes it from absorption.). After soaking in for 5 or 10 minutes, buff dry with a cloth.

 

[PennyroyalWe]

I will say this, I’ve used coconut oil to treat a leather strap and Ive had zero issues with it molding or “going rancid”.

 

[gln1955]

Easy; it doesn't.

That oil will somewhat seal the wood so that moisture enters or leaves much more slowly. If you have large humidity swings, the fretboard will lose or gain moisture in a more controlled fashion. making cracking or warping less likely.

 

[Stumbo]

I will say this, I’ve used coconut oil to treat a leather strap and Ive had zero issues with it molding or “going rancid”.

I have the same coconut oil in an unrefrigerated bottle for many years. No mold or rancidity

 

[MobileHolmes]

Agreed! I doubt anyone wanting to buy a Sadowsky or Fodera really cares if the manufacturers recommend buying a $5 bottle of oil that would, according to most manufacturers’ recommendation on usage amount, last 10+ years before needing to get another bottle.

I don’t know whether or not my unfinished neck is “healthier” because I put Dunlop 65 lemon oil on it once every year or 2, whenever it looks dry...but I like the way it makes it look, and doesn’t have any negative effect on me in any way, so why not use it?

I find the naysayers a bit ridiculous on this topic. Who cares if people want to spend approximately $0.50 per year (straight line depreciation of a $5 bottle over 10 years)? I’m sure you blow more than $0.50 per year on things others would classify as frivolous and unnecessary. But panties will still get wadded up anyways, for no real reason.

Yeah, I got a 30 ml bottle of fret doctor, and was a little surprised how small 30 ML Is. I believe I have done 10 fretboards with it or so since I got it maybe 6-7 months ago, and it would appear that 30 MLs is going to probably last me about 20 years. I'm not sure if it's any better than the bottle of Dunlop 65 I have, which was bigger for the same price, but due to the application method, it seems to go alot farther.

 

[dhagopian]

Posts like this make me really wary about buying used instruments... lol

 

[frankie5string]

Don't do it - keep kitchen oils in the kitchen.
It certainly won't cure, and it won't lift any dirt, either. It's usually not the right consistency for fingerboard work. It may make it look nice while it's wet but won't do anything to protect the wood.

 

[nostatic]

Ah, the list of in-your-face links that prove everything without any valid explanation.. What do you think these commercial links demonstrate? When so-called experts hope to sell me something, they are no longer experts, they are merchants. In addition, you seem to contradict yourself with this one: https://acousticguitar.com/ask-the-expert-is-fingerboard-oil-snake-oil/ I quote a passage: "Dryness is the only sure way I know to get a crack in your fingerboard. So, no, wood doesn’t need anything smeared on it to keep it from cracking. All it needs is a stable, properly humidified environment."

I'd like to know why you think you have to do it. Because you were told to do it? Do you play piano? The black keys are ebony and are not oiled. Do you play chess? The black pieces are ebony and are not oiled. Do you play violin? The ebony fingerboard does not need to be oiled. Today we still have violins that are over 200 years old and whose fingerboards are in perfect condition. Again, you can do it, but you don't need it.

I hope I did not offend you, I just wish to restore the truth.

to clean or not to clean...

the truth? Funny stuff. I'm sure Fodera is getting a cut of all the mineral oil sales at the local CVS...

It depends on the wood and if the wood was finished. Ebony will take up oil if it is dry. And I don't live in a stable properly humidified environment - neither do my basses. I've spoken with a couple of builders about ebony and they all recommend oiling once or twice a year, particularly if you live in a dry climate. Ebony will crack, even if it is properly seasoned before building.

Piano keys and chess pieces are not a bass fingerboard. At least the last time I checked...

I bought my small bottle of bore oil about 8 years ago. I'll probably need to buy another one in 2040.

 

[Vinny_G]

This reply shows a distinct misunderstanding of the efforts and integrity of fine guitar builders like Fodera and Sadowsky to preserve and protect the very hard won fruits of their labor . To imply they are simply trying to make a few more bucks by recommending oiling their boards properly is to truly misconstrue their intent and ignorant at best . I understand the anti - consumerism that appears to be the root of your complaint and agree with that stance in general . However this is not an example of that trend run amok by any stretch . If gentlemen like those two who have spent their adult lives making some of the the highest quality basses available say to protect their work - you should use oil - that's a suggestion worth taking a very serious look at . Kelly

Not only do you not understand what I said, but you interpret my words by making assumptions about what I think. Nice. Someone said you should put oil on your fingerboard. I said no, it's not necessary. I received in response a list of links that I already know and that prove nothing. Here are some excerpts:

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
"If you have a fingerboard made out of Ebony, Rosewood, Pau Ferro, or any other unfinished wood, while you have the strings off of your Fodera, you need to get your fingerboard at least every six months." Why? No explanation.

Invalid Link Removed
"Follow up the windex with a coat of boiled linseed oil on the rosewood or ebony boards.Wipe it on to coat the entire board and then wipe all the excess right off." Why? No explanation.

https://acousticguitar.com/ask-the-expert-is-fingerboard-oil-snake-oil/
"Some woods, like rosewood, are oily themselves." In fact, a polish has a buffing wheel in some of the oil in a rosewood fingerboard, which gives it depth and makes it look shiny."
"So, no, it does not need anything, it's a stable, properly humidified environment."
I already talked about that and I agree with it.

Bob Taylor says you can do it if you want, being careful not to overdo it, and I agree with him. But at no time does he say you have to do it.

So I ask you, respectfully, why do you think we should?

 

[frankie5string]

Isn't the fingerboard made of Laurel on that thing? It's pretty much maintenance-free... just wipe it down after playing. You shouldn't have to lather it with oil for many years.

That's a really old quote from Sadowsky... I wonder if he still feels the same way about treating woods with Windex and BLO.

 

[Vinny_G]

I didn’t see these experts recommending their own brand of fretboard oil/cleaner.

That's not what I said.

 

[ArtechnikA]

Zymöl Bridge (basically carnuba wax) was made for orchestral (typically ebony) fingerboards.
I use it very occasionally on the DiamondWood fingerboard of my fretless; since it's essentially nonporous it's just for a bit of shine (cosmetic) and to fill in some slight surface wear from years of use (also fundamentally cosmetic). I once used it on a Macassar ebony fingerboard and liked the results. I've also used it on my NXT EUB which I believe is ebony.
A small jar will probably last a lifetime, which is good since it is expensive.
I'm OK with mineral oil on my butcher block cutting board, but not a stringed instrument finger/fretboard.
All IMO, of course...

 

[Vinny_G]

It's surprising that nobody ever mentions the fact we produce oils naturally through our fingers. If you play your bass with bare hands like most people do, the oils on your fingers will transfer to any parts of the bass you touch.

I agree with you. That's exactly why it's not necessary to put oil on the fingerboard.

 

[Vinny_G]

depend of the level of humidity you have where you live.

I only put some oil during winter because it is dry here, otherwise it would be way too much.

To manage the humidity level, it's an air humidifier that you need. Oil doesn't hydrate anything because oil doesn't contain water.