Coconut Oil?

[mcnach]

I know many recommend lemon oil. I wonder if coconut oil is too heavy. I could always use Dr. Duck’s Axwax.

Lemon oil has never seen a lemon 'though. It's got a compound called lemonene which is responsible for the lemony aroma, but it's a mineral oil. And that one is definitely good for unprotected fingerboards (rosewood, pao ferro etc)

 

[mcnach]

No it’ll go rancid.

Yeah, it's a time bomb.

 

[Axstar]

Lemon oil has never seen a lemon 'though. It's got a compound called lemonene which is responsible for the lemony aroma, but it's a mineral oil. And that one is definitely good for unprotected fingerboards (rosewood, pao ferro etc)

The little bottles they sell at the checkout in guitar stores isn't really much use. It evaporates away to nothing.

 

[gip111]

Yes, if you want to keep the moisture content of the wood fairly constant. It's a sealer.

Ebony, for example, will start to chip at the neck heel if it gets too dry.

Water moisturizes, oil does not.

 

[fhm555]

I’ve used plain old veg oil on rosewood with no problem, but i use tiny amounts of oil and copious amounts of elbow grease.

 

[Kelly robinson]

Ah, the list of in-your-face links that prove everything without any valid explanation.. What do you think these commercial links demonstrate? When so-called experts hope to sell me something, they are no longer experts, they are merchants. In addition, you seem to contradict yourself with this one: https://acousticguitar.com/ask-the-expert-is-fingerboard-oil-snake-oil/ I quote a passage: "Dryness is the only sure way I know to get a crack in your fingerboard. So, no, wood doesn’t need anything smeared on it to keep it from cracking. All it needs is a stable, properly humidified environment."

I'd like to know why you think you have to do it. Because you were told to do it? Do you play piano? The black keys are ebony and are not oiled. Do you play chess? The black pieces are ebony and are not oiled. Do you play violin? The ebony fingerboard does not need to be oiled. Today we still have violins that are over 200 years old and whose fingerboards are in perfect condition. Again, you can do it, but you don't need it.

I hope I did not offend you, I just wish to restore the truth.

to clean or not to clean...

This reply shows a distinct misunderstanding of the efforts and integrity of fine guitar builders like Fodera and Sadowsky to preserve and protect the very hard won fruits of their labor . To imply they are simply trying to make a few more bucks by recommending oiling their boards properly is to truly misconstrue their intent and ignorant at best . I understand the anti - consumerism that appears to be the root of your complaint and agree with that stance in general . However this is not an example of that trend run amok by any stretch . If gentlemen like those two who have spent their adult lives making some of the the highest quality basses available say to protect their work - you should use oil - that's a suggestion worth taking a very serious look at . Kelly

 

[TortCult]

Would coconut oil be a good choice for treating a unfinished fretless fingerboard?

Warm coconut oil is the only thing I use for fretboards, I also used it on a fretless. Really makes the grain pop and I never had issues like rancid smell.

 

[roller]

The ol' "what product is best for rosewood and ebony?" discussions are some of the best entertainment on TalkBass... beats any "P vs. Jazz" threads... running away.

Any chance for personal maintenance and/or inexpensive home remedies being mentioned and it usually turns into a beehive-whackin'.

 

[Spidey2112]

Would coconut oil be a good choice for treating a unfinished fretless fingerboard?

Not sure, Doc... but, when the wife adds it to the brownies she baked, they're friggin awesome!

 

[skyline_01]

+1. I also bought mineral oil from WM and it was dirt cheap. I just got an older Squier Affinity P (rosewood board) that I'm modding/cleaning for my daugther's Christmas present. I used 0000 steel wool to remove the gunk from the previous owner (frets look much shinier now too) and then I sparingly applied the oil and made sure the excess was wiped away. It looks and feels 1000% better.

 

[Brother Goose]

I apply generous amounts of coconut oil to myself and my loved ones - but not my basses.

 

[-Asdfgh-]

I just rub a banana over the bass from time-to-time.

 

[-Asdfgh-]

Keef Richards tried coconuts once, but didn't inhale.

 

[Brother Goose]

Seeing as this thread is starting to derail, I'd like to take this minute to share a link about the topical benefits of MUSTARD oil.

It's amazing.

In the winter time we will slather ourselves with the stuff and then have a dance party for 15-20 minutes so it really soaks in and then take contrast showers.

Be advised you will need to clean the tub immediately and take extra caution to avoid slipping

9 Health Benefits of Organic Mustard Oil You May Not Have Known

 

[Bass Viking]

What kind of board are we talking about? I wouldn't put anything on most fretless boards.

Why not on fretless?

 

[Bass Viking]

Fodera recommends mineral oil with no additives:

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

That said, I use bore oil on mine:

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

I use bore oil too. It was recommended by my tech.

 

[Bass Viking]

Ah, the list of in-your-face links that prove everything without any valid explanation.. What do you think these commercial links demonstrate? When so-called experts hope to sell me something, they are no longer experts, they are merchants.

I didn’t see these experts recommending their own brand of fretboard oil/cleaner.

 

[Kukulkan61]

I use Tres Flores on my boards

 

[ctmullins]

A coat or two of Formby’s Tung Oil, which is actually a wiping varnish.

Coconuts are best with beer.

 

[Tommyc]

There are several things I’d like to comment on. Ebony though it is much harder than the rosewoods used for finger boards does expel moisture in dry circumstances and does benefit from oiling. As a classical guitarist for a very long time any classical guitar I’ve had, had an ebony board. If you neglect to oil them, because classical guitar boards are flat they’re subject to a phenomena known as cupping, where shrinkage will cause the boards to dip in spots. You have to know that relief is built into finger boards and are not adjustable for relief. I had a board cup on me. It took over 25 years, but was not reversible so the only solution since classical guitars aren’t built with a glued set neck either, the frets have to be pulled with the board sanded flat. This will only work if the bridge has room to be shaved down. So once a year with mineral oil on ebony is fine and I’d recommend it. Now as to boiled linseed oil, the boiled kind can be used but it’s probably a better primary finish because even the boiled stuff is extremely slow to dry so you have to really rub to get the excess off. The raw version is non-drying. Some formulas use it like Stew-Mac in conjunction with Tung oil and added dryers. Tru Oil is a synthetic linseed formula once again with added dryers. My other objection to boiled linseed is that it stinks and is distinctly yellow in tint whereas mineral oil is clear, wipes off easily, cheap and will store forever. The last thing that people are objecting to, the term “ food grade” only means the oil is non-toxic and can used to treat such items as butcher block tables or chopping boards where food will contact surfaces. It does not mean that mineral oil will go rancid, but only attests to it’s non-toxicity.