I wasn't trying to argue, I just want others reading this to understand what additional cable capacitance does and doesn't do.
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Completing setup- cords etc
- Thread starter UrthCrimson
- Start date
To argue is exactly what we were doing. Arguments are the supporting statements used to defend a position.
I found no disagreement with your arguments because things had broken down into two separate discussions. Your's and mine. One where tone controls were allowed be varied on both the amp and bass, another where the tone control on the bass always remained at a fixed position.
I believe we both agreed that longer cables introduce more capacitance (All else being equal). And if that was your only goal, then mission accomplished. I concede that discussion to you sir as I am not in disagreement with it.
At this point it is my position that any further contribution on my part to this will discussion will not realize any additional knowledge being imparted to the masses. It will just add to the ever increasing minutia it has devolved into. Therefore, I'm done with this thread. Please feel free to continue if you wish. I will only continue in spirit to be in agreement with your part of the argument as it has been presented so far. But before I go, I want to thank you for your contributions here and elsewhere on Talkbass.
Good day.
I've found over the years that the house brand cables from reputable vendors, or boring sounding brands such as ProCo, are of good quality and hold up well. I've had ProCo cables last for decades.
But mostly I make my own cables. I like Switchcraft 280 plugs, but there are good Neutrik plugs too. A technical detail is that the "sleeve" of the plug, and the threaded body that accepts the cap, need to be machined out of a single continuous piece of metal, otherwise they will work loose from one another over time and form a bad connection. Also, those two brands of plugs have gotten the dimensions right over the years, and are the standard for everybody else. Switchcraft predates amplified music.
I like repairable cables. The main failure mode is that the center conductor breaks due to years of flexing, typically at the joint to the plug. You can get another decade out of a cable by cutting a couple inches off each end and re-attaching to the existing plugs, if you can get them apart.
About cable length, I prefer shorter cables just because they're easier to manage on stage, get tangled up less, and are less stuff to haul around. Now to reveal what a geek I am, I've got my cables color coded -- each type is a unique color, so I can see at a glance if I've got the right cables in my bag.
Nickel plating is amply conductive, and doesn't corrode. Gold can corrode because they use cheap thin plating and it's the metal underneath that corrodes.
But mostly I make my own cables. I like Switchcraft 280 plugs, but there are good Neutrik plugs too. A technical detail is that the "sleeve" of the plug, and the threaded body that accepts the cap, need to be machined out of a single continuous piece of metal, otherwise they will work loose from one another over time and form a bad connection. Also, those two brands of plugs have gotten the dimensions right over the years, and are the standard for everybody else. Switchcraft predates amplified music.
I like repairable cables. The main failure mode is that the center conductor breaks due to years of flexing, typically at the joint to the plug. You can get another decade out of a cable by cutting a couple inches off each end and re-attaching to the existing plugs, if you can get them apart.
About cable length, I prefer shorter cables just because they're easier to manage on stage, get tangled up less, and are less stuff to haul around. Now to reveal what a geek I am, I've got my cables color coded -- each type is a unique color, so I can see at a glance if I've got the right cables in my bag.
Nickel plating is amply conductive, and doesn't corrode. Gold can corrode because they use cheap thin plating and it's the metal underneath that corrodes.
