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Confused about Glue

You can pick up a small crock-pot or mug-warmer at the thrift store and do actual hot hide glue, or the (clear) dark secret "bone glue" (unflavored gelatine) or fish glue or...

Keep the glue in a lidded jar and put it in the fridge when not using it for less stink and longer glue-life.
 
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I'm okay with titebond original for every part of the build. The hardest and oiliest wood I've used so far is wenge and it worked well with no special steps. I like the idea of keeping the process simple until I get more proficient at building a bass. I don't want to add any new complexities like learning a new glue or any of the added steps or equipment needed. I liked the idea of something like a hide glue for the fingerboard, just as insurance against having to go back in for a rattly TR, etc.
If the liquid titebond hide glue worked as well as the hot stuff and was as convenient as simply having a bottle of it on the glue shelf with the PVA and CA, I'd be all about it.
But it sounds like it isn't worth it's weight.
So, good ol PVA will be my go-to for now.
Once I get a little better at all this, I might try the hot hide glue on a few things. Then again, if I get better at building, I shouldn't need to worry about getting the FB off to fix screwups.
I messed around a little with some 2 part epoxies and UV cure stuff on this last build and decided that it will be specialty use only and I'll try to build in ways and with materials that don't require it.
 
Anyone have experience with and opinions on the titebond liquid hide glue?
Titebond

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I think Jerry Rosa uses that Titebond hide glue on his guitars and mandolins…. to glue the label on the inside. Titebond original for everything else. He has a video where he removes a neck he glued in with Titebond in about 15 minutes. No issues with removing a Titebond glue joint when needed but much less likely to spontaneously disassemble on it own.
 
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