I'm considering converting my Squier CV 50s Pbass to a string-thru design It doesn't look complicated but I figured I'd ask around to see if anyone tried this and what were the end results. Thanks.
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Converting top loaded to string thru.
- Thread starter tribbledaniel
- Start date
Conventional wisdom holds that the modification will not yield much benefit although it may be a fun project. Is the bass lacking in some fashion?
Riis
Riis
IMO, it won't make a much of of noticeable difference in sound and you will be hacking up your bass, and will be harder to string up
Sub'd to this thread. I'm going to be mounting a Squier Mustang bridge to my MIM P-bass & would like to know if anyone's attempted this mod.
I am NOT a pro. But it seems pretty simple. Install the replacement bridge. Use the holes on top to to drill through to the bottom. That way they CAN'T really be out of line. (Of course, a drill press would probably insure that the drill is perfectly perpendicular to the body.) Then you can use the holes that have bee drilled through as "pilot" holes for the ferrules. Wrap a piece of tape around the bit to set the depth to drill the ferrules. Then pop in the ferrules in and glue if needed. I may be missing something but it doesn't seem to be too hard.
Through body stringing on P Basses is a very recent thing. You're more authentic without the change.
I wouldn't to commend it. My preferred bridge setup are ones where the string can be wound up on the tuner without the string twisting. Favorites are the warwick two piece bridges and the hipshot bridge on my Conklin. From my experience with this situation through body actually made sustain worse because the string twisted even more as it was wound up on the tuning peg. But for some basses it can change the tone a little in a good way because it can cause the body to resonate more which does effect the strings vibrating pattern over the pickup. IMO though thy loss of sustain was never worth such little change in tone. I'm not saying for some basses it wouldn't work better. But I tried it and didn't care for it.
So you want to install one of these? -
There's a reason no one uses a bridge like this anymore. Intonation is a b*tch. If you want to make it look more authentic, just install this. No one will know that you have a functional bridge under there, and you'll look authentic as hell. -
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That is EXACTLY how to do it. I've done this with two basses and two Strats (converting to hard-tail) with pretty much exactly this method.
I take that back. I guess the two intonation screw slab bodies were through body.
God, those bridges are a PITA to adjust.
To the OP: Whatever you do, stick to a something that gives you a saddle and intonation screw per string.
God, those bridges are a PITA to adjust.
To the OP: Whatever you do, stick to a something that gives you a saddle and intonation screw per string.
Pretty much, except I'd say to only drill the two outermost holes all the way through the body. Use a drill press, and go slowly. Drill out the inner two halfway through the body from the top, then flip the bass over, line up the bridge on the back with the 2 outermost holes that you already drilled, and drill the two inner holes halfway through so they meet the ones you did from the top. Then do your countersinking for the ferrules.
This will ensure that your holes are in a perfect line both on the top and on the back.
If you go all the way through on all of them from the top you run the risk of the bit "walking" and coming out the other side crooked. Then you'll have string through holes that are misaligned and look amateur.
