And don't forget that unless you strip it yourself, there's a lot of prep work for whoever does the job. I also agree that $200 isn't unreasonable if the old stuff hasn't been stripped.
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Cosmetic! Recovering your cabinet!
- Thread starter Spinal Tapper
- Start date
Wow, this just makes me further realize that I can't build a cab. lol
I haven't done this, but I have made the mistake of stripping the Tolex from a cab. I'd guess it's not too difficult to do, eh?
I haven't done this, but I have made the mistake of stripping the Tolex from a cab. I'd guess it's not too difficult to do, eh?
True, you can't put a price on experience - but now I'm thinking I could actually learn something here...this could be a cool, rewarding project when I'm done...
same thing with doing my own setups - I started adjusting truss rod, inotation, that kinda stuff all by myself and now I'm comfortable showing others how to do it correctly. I'm going install new wiring on my P bass in a few days, under no supervision and I've never soldered anything in my life.
same thing with doing my own setups - I started adjusting truss rod, inotation, that kinda stuff all by myself and now I'm comfortable showing others how to do it correctly. I'm going install new wiring on my P bass in a few days, under no supervision and I've never soldered anything in my life.
Ok for your cab I would do the sides 1st. I wouldn't cut directly on the seem maybe leave a inch over lap (better safe then sorry) Then take a piece of tolex from the top and wrap it over and down to the bottom. Then your done. IMO
as far as tools:
tape measure
3m adhesive ( look back the name is there)
a razor to cut the fabric and something to cut on
a T square or some thing you can use to make your cuts steight.
as far as tools:
tape measure
3m adhesive ( look back the name is there)
a razor to cut the fabric and something to cut on
a T square or some thing you can use to make your cuts steight.
Doesn't seem too difficult - at least it's a 2x10 cab, that should make this project a little more manageable. I gotta say, I'm pretty psyched to begin.
this place seems to have relatively inexpensive prices on tolex - any experience with them?
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[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
BUMP - I need some advice on how I tolex the back of the amp.
My 2x10 has a closed back. Is that a separate piece that you cut out and just line up the edges after you do the sides first?
All the tutorials I'm finding are for open-backed cabinets like Marshalls and Fender combo guitar amps.
Thanks.
My 2x10 has a closed back. Is that a separate piece that you cut out and just line up the edges after you do the sides first?
All the tutorials I'm finding are for open-backed cabinets like Marshalls and Fender combo guitar amps.
Thanks.
Just wrap it all the way to the bottom and to the front in the bottom The less cuts the cleaner it looks.
I did this SWR WM15 using the [Invalid or Expired Link Removed] that used to be on a yahoo board. I archived it - hope he doesn't mind too much. I used water-based contact cement. You might be able to get it from Tubes and More in something smaller than the half-gallon I bought.
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- Feb 16, 2008
- 21,240
- 23,638
- Disclosures
- John K Custom Basses
on a vintage ampeg cab, they use one piece to go all the way around it and they meet on the left bottom side, about 1.5" from the edge. then the back is one piece. i did the sides first and wrapped it to about 2" on the back. then i cut a piece as big the entire back and glue it on. then i take a razor blade with a t-square and cut thru both pieces with one cut. you have to slightly lift the edge of the back piece to remove the extra tolex underneath, then push the back piece flush to the side piece. if you're using 3M super 77, you have to work pretty fast as it bonds almost instantly.
here's a pic of the back of a V4 cab to show what i mean:
Thanks for the help - for adhesive, I was considering using the 3M (70? 90? both?) whatever is strongest I can find at Home Depot
I'll follow these tips and let you know my progress.
Gotta place my order for the tolex right now actually. You think 3 yards will "cover" it?
Thanks guys!
I'll follow these tips and let you know my progress.
Gotta place my order for the tolex right now actually. You think 3 yards will "cover" it?
Thanks guys!
- Feb 16, 2008
- 21,240
- 23,638
- Disclosures
- John K Custom Basses
home depot has the 77 and i think that its the strongest.
2 yards will cover it if the tolex is 54" wide.
John, I noticed you used the 3-hole corner pieces - I'm going to be replacing mine - these seem pretty universal - do you think these 2-hole w/out lip corner pieces would work, or should I go for the 3-hole like on your V4 cab?
here's the link of what I'm looking at:
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
Help on this part would be really appreciated too - I don't want to order the wrong corner pieces. If you notice on the SWR 2x10, the feet are very "tough" industrial-looking skid plates - they'll have to go.
- Feb 16, 2008
- 21,240
- 23,638
- Disclosures
- John K Custom Basses
the ampegs had 2 hole ones on the front and three hole ones on the back. if you're using the two hole ones with the lip, you have to make sure that the lip fits snugly into the recess of the grill area. i've bought alot of them that said that they were for 3/4" wood but they were really for 7/8"-1" thick wood. the ones without the lip can catch on alot of things when loading, and subsequently pull up, so if you can find the right ones with the lip, i'd recommend those and use 3 hole ones on the back.
Very helpful, thanks. OK, so I'm just going to go for it - a set of 3 hole ones for the back and 2 hole w/ lip for the front - it's not like they offer different sizes, so hopefully they'll fit - if not, I'll try and clean up the "skid plates" that are on there and just reuse those I guess and I'm out $8. 
seriously though, thanks for your help on this.
seriously though, thanks for your help on this.
- Feb 16, 2008
- 21,240
- 23,638
- Disclosures
- John K Custom Basses
Just ordered - here's my supplies so far:
*3 yards Baby blue Bronco/Levant tolex (3 yards to be on the safe side, maybe use leftovers for another project if necessary)
*4pc steel corner kit 3 leg black
*4pc steel corner kit 2 leg w/o lip black (decided I'd have a better chance of fitting the corner piece w/out the lip, since I didn't really measure my cabinet last night)
*1 yard Black grill cloth
Now I'm going to pick up some sanding materials and adhesive at Home Depot, and some fresh razor blades too
I'm feelin pretty confident about this
I'll be doing progress pix as I start the project after the materials come in - probably sometime next week.
*3 yards Baby blue Bronco/Levant tolex (3 yards to be on the safe side, maybe use leftovers for another project if necessary)
*4pc steel corner kit 3 leg black
*4pc steel corner kit 2 leg w/o lip black (decided I'd have a better chance of fitting the corner piece w/out the lip, since I didn't really measure my cabinet last night)
*1 yard Black grill cloth
Now I'm going to pick up some sanding materials and adhesive at Home Depot, and some fresh razor blades too
I'm feelin pretty confident about this
I'll be doing progress pix as I start the project after the materials come in - probably sometime next week.
Took all the hardware off easily and started removing the old carpeting off the 2x10 last night (no turning back now! 
)
I'm avoiding removing the speakers from the box. While this could be more difficult for measuring and heavy to maneuver, the SWR 2x10 has a complex wiring system because of an adjustable tweeter and the way it's insulated makes me think NO-WAY to taking the speakers out - I'm not great with electronics, but I'm going to push through. Plus I'm leaving the baffles as they are - covered in black carpet and tolexing around them - no one will see them anyways after I put the black screen on.
Some carpet comes off easier than other spots with not a lot of "ripping" as I predicted.
I'm carefully using an exacto-knife to help me with the stronger parts. It's toughest to remove right along the edges of the cabinet it seems.
Most of it is pulling with brute strength - luckily, no band practice for almost a week (my fingers kill) - I may get a putty knife to help this along and try the hair-dryer idea to loosen some of the glue with heat.
The great news is, it doesn't seem like there's too many glue chunks or leftover residue on the wood, and no splintering either - which should make sanding much easier.
There's a lot of leftover black fuzzies making it look like my cabinet is going through puberty! Gross! Those should sand off easily.
I got word from UPS my materials should be in TODAY!
Looks like I'll be able to continue the project throughout the weekend.
)I'm avoiding removing the speakers from the box. While this could be more difficult for measuring and heavy to maneuver, the SWR 2x10 has a complex wiring system because of an adjustable tweeter and the way it's insulated makes me think NO-WAY to taking the speakers out - I'm not great with electronics, but I'm going to push through. Plus I'm leaving the baffles as they are - covered in black carpet and tolexing around them - no one will see them anyways after I put the black screen on.
Some carpet comes off easier than other spots with not a lot of "ripping" as I predicted.
I'm carefully using an exacto-knife to help me with the stronger parts. It's toughest to remove right along the edges of the cabinet it seems.
Most of it is pulling with brute strength - luckily, no band practice for almost a week (my fingers kill) - I may get a putty knife to help this along and try the hair-dryer idea to loosen some of the glue with heat.
The great news is, it doesn't seem like there's too many glue chunks or leftover residue on the wood, and no splintering either - which should make sanding much easier.
There's a lot of leftover black fuzzies making it look like my cabinet is going through puberty! Gross! Those should sand off easily.
I got word from UPS my materials should be in TODAY!
Looks like I'll be able to continue the project throughout the weekend.
