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Countryman Type 85 Repair

bassgrooves2

bassgrooves2

Guest
Apr 8, 2011
305
22
44
North Myrtle Beach, SC
#1
So I have Type 85 DI that I bought used from the bay.
It is not the prettiest BX because it has been used well for years, but it seems to function properly and provides a nice clean signal to the board.
The problem is the transformer block has come detached from the lower frame so it slides and clunks around down when in transit.

I appears that the unit had been super blu once before, but I don't know how that may interfere with the continuity of the box.

If anyone has a suggestion of what method I should use to reattach the transformer and circuitry to the frame I would love to hear it! ImageUploadedByTapatalk1354374829.510738.jpg
 
#3
It looks like silicone was originally used. I can't tell from the photo. Superglue might work (gel type and fresh) if the surfaces are cleaned off. A foaming poly glue like Gorilla might be better, but with any glue, the old stuff should be cleaned off first. Normal epoxy (not the 5 minute kind) would be good. For super glue, I prefer Gorilla glue's gel stuff, or thicker stuff from a hobby store.
 
#4
Or some of that clear silicone goo you load into a caulking gun.

Or punch a couple of holes into the case and tie-wrap it in place. Use leather or rubber shims between the tie wrap and the blue block to keep the tie wrap from cutting into it. Or sheath the tie wrap in a short length of rubber hose like they might use for a windshield washer feed in a car.

Edit: GAH. Steve beat me to it.
 
#6
The trouble I'm having is that there is an open metal surface on The body of the transformer that apparently is there to provide a connection to the chassis. I don't want to interrupt this connection with glue/adhesive.
The residue on there Los like it is definitely sure glue and I figured some sanding is likely in order to remove it.
 
#7
bassgrooves2 said:
The trouble I'm having is that there is an open metal surface on The body of the transformer that apparently is there to provide a connection to the chassis. I don't want to interrupt this connection with glue/adhesive.
The residue on there Los like it is definitely sure glue and I figured some sanding is likely in order to remove it.
Click to expand...

Why not just ask Countryman?

I can pull one apart on Monday and have a look. It may or may not be grounded to the chassis through one of the jacks or other wires anyway.
 
#8
I was able to sand off the old super glue, but this metal protrusion is puzzling me. I have a request in to Countryman Engineering dept.
In the mean time I simply applied a piece of double sided tape to see if there were any notable effects of interrupting this connection.

At first I got an awful amount of noise on battery power. I then switched to phantom power and the unit worked wonderfully. Switched back to battery and no more noise there either. Instrument and speaker level connections APPEAR to be working normally. I haven't tested the speaker connection with the temporary tape, but when I switch the unit to speaker level does attenuate as usual.

I am wondering if this will have an effect on e ground lift functionality.
 
#10
I have a meter, but not here. It's at the office so I can't get it until Monday. I'm no in a real rush to get it fixed right away though.

Below is a picture showing the metal. I don't know it was designed that way or if the epoxy that the electronics are housed in (blue box) has just worn though; or maybe the previous owner did that.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1354399434.006739.jpg
 
#11
I doubt if that is a connection as it wouldn't have made sense to leave the case as black anodized aluminum if a low resistance ground were desired.

In regards to adhesives I agree with a polyurethane 2 part epoxy or even just regular old JB weld from the hardware store.
 
#14
Jim C said:
I doubt if that is a connection as it wouldn't have made sense to leave the case as black anodized aluminum if a low resistance ground were desired.

In regards to adhesives I agree with a polyurethane 2 part epoxy or even just regular old JB weld from the hardware store.
Click to expand...

It doesn't seem to have any adverse reaction by not having it contact the frame. I couldn't figure why it would even be there, but I'm sure there's a reason.
 
#15
georgestrings said:
This is what I was going to suggest...


- georgestrings
Click to expand...

I have a request in to Countryman Engineering dept. just waiting to hear from the horse mouth about recommende repairs, but I'm not in a hurry for it at the moment.


Thanks for everyone's help and input. I honestly didn't expect to have as many responses in a short period of time today.
Gotta love TB
 
#16
One last thought from me:
If the mount is truly an electrical connection, then the adhesive would have to be conductive which would also mean that there would be some sort of resistance spec.

No good reason in the world for a manufacturer to engineer in this sort of goofy ground connection to anodized aluminum with a conductive adhesive.
 
#17
Jim C said:
One last thought from me:
If the mount is truly an electrical connection, then the adhesive would have to be conductive which would also mean that there would be some sort of resistance spec.

No good reason in the world for a manufacturer to engineer in this sort of goofy ground connection to anodized aluminum with a conductive adhesive.
Click to expand...

Yeah I couldn't figure that either. I assume that originally the epoxy black that hold the electronics was directly adhered to the frame without the help of another adhesive. I'm guessing that some good ole epoxy will be fine to put it back together.

The thing still seems to work fine, but that strange noise when I first plugged in after using tape was weird. That would suck on a gig.
 

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