• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Custom 5 string for Alex

#21
THIRSTYGUMS said:
more great, clean work wil!, howd you get the wenge nut to hold, mine just fell to bits?
Click to expand...

hmm, well, common sense I guess. I don't know how you did yours, but I cut it with the long side parallel to the grain direction. The second thing I did was dump a bunch of water thin CA to soak in before doing the final sanding and slotting. It should hold up for years unless Alex decides to use the bass as a punching bag. Of course, if it doesn't I will replace it free of charge ;)
 
#22
wilser said:
No, it's not my first. I do it the same way but I go for more of a gap between the neck and body to make up for finish build.
Click to expand...

So no fancy angles or nothing? Sounds pretty simple, So are you finishing the neck pocket or are you referring to the finish build on the neck it's self?
 
#23
scottyd said:
So no fancy angles or nothing? Sounds pretty simple, So are you finishing the neck pocket or are you referring to the finish build on the neck it's self?
Click to expand...

well, actually I have been putting a slight angle on my necks on the last few builds. It's only because it's easier to build, not because I think it adds anything. I taper the neck thickness and continue the taper all the way to the neck pocket, so there is an angle on the neck, not the pocket.

I'm refering to the actual finish build up. I apply a pretty thick finish, so I have to make up for that or the neck won't go in the pocket. What I do is just move the neck about 3/32" or so towards the nut when setting up the neck pocket jig. That way the pocket comes out a bit wider than the neck ...just enough for the finish thickness.
 
#27
Love the neck. Couple of questions:

1. The binding appears to be the full thickness of the fret board, did you attach wenge strips to each side then mill to thickness? If not, how?

2. Could you please describe your inlay process for the fret markers. Template routed? How thick are they?

I really admire your work. Outstanding.
 
#28
bfrink71 said:
Love the neck. Couple of questions:

1. The binding appears to be the full thickness of the fret board, did you attach wenge strips to each side then mill to thickness? If not, how?

2. Could you please describe your inlay process for the fret markers. Template routed? How thick are they?

I really admire your work. Outstanding.
Click to expand...

Hi there, thanks a lot for your kind comments.

For the binding, I started with the fretboard slotted and tapers, then cut about 3/16" from each side following the taper. The fingerboard blank was 1/4" thick, so I glued 1/4" wide x 1/2" thick wenge strips on each side and then used the router table with a flush cutting bit to get the wenge to size with the fingerboard on the face and the back sides. After it was glued to the neck blank (the inlays were already installed at this point) I drilled the holes for the side markers, put in the dots and then trimmed to final size, which the neck already was.

For the binding this is what I did. I started with a long QS wenge blank 3/16" thick which followed the taper of the fingerboard but was about 1/2" from the edge on each side, leaving about 1/4" or so from each binding strip. I clamped the blank to the fingerboard and marked a line about 3/16" from each fret slot, cut it on the bandsaw and finished it to size on the disc sander. I used each piece to pencil in the outline on each marker position, used a 1/8" bit on a mini air grinder with a router base made for it to route 1/8" deep and close to the line then finished up with some chisels. The inlays were glued it with epoxy mixed with wenge dust to fill up any voids on the sides and then trimmed down to the face of the fingerboard on the safe-t-planer. Then I used a stationary belt sander on a forward/backward rocking motion to rough radius and a steel bar with 80 grit to level it up.

Hope that helps!
 
#37
hipstarr said:
wilser, you simply rock. It's absolutely amazing!

just on more nut question....

Do you think it will hold the strings of a fretless bass, without the zero fret I mean. And what if you finish the nut with epoxy varnish, would in withstand the strings?


thanks
Click to expand...

Thank you! you are too kind.

Like I said before, the nut was flooded with CA glue and then finish sanded and slotted, so IMHO it should hold just fine for a fretless with just a small drop more of CA in the bottom of the slots.
 

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back