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Custom Tele body bass

Hey all!!

Getting ready to start a new build that hopefully will satisfy my wants.

Does anyone here have specs on the G&L ASAT B5? Wanna use it as a reference for the overall body size. Picture attached for reference.

Just a general rundown of what I’m looking to do:

-Tele body, will be semi-hollow with either a cat-eye or Rick style f-hole
-Single PUP, thinking humbucker in a P-Bass position, *would love some opinions on this*
- Telecaster caster style control plate, I’ve seen some drilled for three knobs, thinking Treble, Bass, Volume, although I have no idea as I’m typing this if that’s entirely possible without going active
- 5 string neck, reverse headstock, just cause

If anybody has some insight on PUP and PUP location with this setup, or with the control setup I’m thinking, would definitely appreciate some info. I’ve put a handful of guitar parts casters together with great results. Have a local builder working with me on the body since he has all the fancy tools to make it easier. Ready to jump into another project.

Thanks everyone!!!
 

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Have you ever played a bass without a top horn? Having owned 6 ASAT basses the neck dive was so severe I had to fabricate a strap extension to make these playable. Others using the same bass don't have issues with it, different strokes.

Great looking bass and looks like a fun project. Just don't want to see you invest the time & $$ only to find out it's too uncomfortable to play.

Good luck!
 
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Have you ever played a bass without a top horn? Having owned 6 ASAT basses the neck dive was so severe I had to fabricate a strap extension to make these playable. Others using the same bass don't have issues with it, different strokes.

Great looking bass and looks like a fun project. Just don't want to see you invest the time & $$ only to find out it's too uncomfortable to play.

Good luck!
Good point! I have played a couple bass that had some neck dive issues.

I’m planning on scaling the body up some compared to a standard Tele size since there’s a good difference in heel sizes from a guitar to a five string neck.

Were the ASATs you owned all 4 string? And how does that body size compare to a standard telecaster?

Appreciate the comment!
 
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In my notes for an ASAT bass body, I have 16" long by 12.75" wide, along with the comment "same as guitar WTH?" I don't remember writing the note as it was a long time ago, and searching today, I can't verify it, but an eyeball of the distance from nut to 12th fret compared to the body length makes me think it's around 16" long. Maybe an ASAT owner can verify? Personally, I'd take a telecaster drawing like the attached, and print it a few times while scaling it up until it felt right. Match those prints with a full scale drawing of your 34" neck and you can get a sense of the dimensions. :thumbsup:
 

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In my notes for an ASAT bass body, I have 16" long by 12.75" wide, along with the comment "same as guitar WTH?" I don't remember writing the note as it was a long time ago, and searching today, I can't verify it, but an eyeball of the distance from nut to 12th fret compared to the body length makes me think it's around 16" long. Maybe an ASAT owner can verify? Personally, I'd take a telecaster drawing like the attached, and print it a few times while scaling it up until it felt right. Match those prints with a full scale drawing of your 34" neck and you can get a sense of the dimensions. :thumbsup:
Awesome. That’s kinda what I had talked about with my builder guy. Plan is to get the neck and then go from there.

Thanks for this!!!
 
- Telecaster caster style control plate, I’ve seen some drilled for three knobs, thinking Treble, Bass, Volume, although I have no idea as I’m typing this if that’s entirely possible without going active
Regarding the controls, if you want boost/cut, you will need to go active. Since you're taking inspiration from G&L, though, you could use passive, cut-only treble and bass controls, like a regular ASAT/L2000. Just leave out the pickup switches etc. that you won't need.
 
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Warmoth makes a body of that shape. You get a choice of woods, pickup styles, etc, and they'll make it semi-hollow if you like (for even more neck dive)

Suggestions for avoiding/minimizing neck dive:

1) Do NOT make it hollow.

2) Hipshot Ultralite (USA) tuners - you want the neck to be as light as possible. If you go with a Warmoth neck, get the graphite rods, not the steel ones. A roasted neck will also help - lighter than regular maple.

3) A Brass bridge (Hipshot A) - that'll help counterbalance. Also, the knobs on the thing should be brass (you want weight on the body). A second pickup is a good idea as well - load that body up with heavy things.

4) Pick a relatively dense wood for the body - Walnut, maple, etc - do NOT use swamp ash or Alder.

You can't make one of these light and balance - you'll have to settle for balanced and a bit heavy.
 
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Warmoth makes a body of that shape. You get a choice of woods, pickup styles, etc, and they'll make it semi-hollow if you like (for even more neck dive)

Suggestions for avoiding/minimizing neck dive:

1) Do NOT make it hollow.

2) Hipshot Ultralite (USA) tuners - you want the neck to be as light as possible. If you go with a Warmoth neck, get the graphite rods, not the steel ones. A roasted neck will also help - lighter than regular maple.

3) A Brass bridge (Hipshot A) - that'll help counterbalance. Also, the knobs on the thing should be brass (you want weight on the body). A second pickup is a good idea as well - load that body up with heavy things.

4) Pick a relatively dense wood for the body - Walnut, maple, etc - do NOT use swamp ash or Alder.

You can't make one of these light and balance - you'll have to settle for balanced and a bit heavy.
Thanks for all this! Definitely good to know about the graphite rods, hadn’t thought of the weight difference there, but had already noted the ultralight tuners. Had been eyeing a roasted maple neck as well, good to know that’s lighter.