D Standard Club (DGCF)

[MirandM]

Two full weeks with my J bass and Pressurewound M7200 tuned to DGCF...

I'm so happy with the way this whole thing is working out I might as well consider myself a lifetime member of this club now.

Why not?
Btw, where do you get those tension figures from? Do you measure them?

 

[michael_t]

where do you get those tension figures from? Do you measure them?

GHS Tension Guide

 

[4StringTheorist]

I'm so happy with the way this whole thing is working out I might as well consider myself a lifetime member of this club now.

Exactly my sentiment with my P-clone, Fretless and active 5 all in D standard now. I'm happy with how all these string choices worked out. I'm enjoying the slightly darker timbre of the instrument. I'm in love.

 

[michael_t]

I'm enjoying the slightly darker timbre of the instrument.

Something interesting I'm finding out about the DGCF tuning is it's not just a simple matter of having two extra notes down low (D & Eb), but the way it changes the whole tonal character of the instrument - in a very good way.

Here's what I posted earlier in the Pressurewound thread:

These PWs sound and feel great, and my beloved J (the first bass I've ever owned) has come to life with a slightly different tonal character with a new level of depth and fullness. I just love the way the low open D rings out with authority without sounding muddy, and the notes higher up the neck on top two strings (C & F) have a lot more body to them.

 

[P Cheen]

Hey! Count me in! Been using DGCF since I sold all guitar-related stuff and moved back to my beloved bass

Anyway, a question. I’m currently using D’Addario XT Nickel gauge 45-105, every string feels and sounds good except my D string which started alright but got muddy over the course of several days with the XT installed (I think the XTs actually suck).
I ordered a set of DR Lo-Riders in the same 45-105 gauge for the same tuning. Will that be sufficient or should I get a 50-110 instead? I was thinking maybe the Tite-Fit and stainless steel construction of the Lo-Riders would just give me a little bit more tension without actually going up a gauge.

Any thoughts?

 

[MirandM]

Hey! Count me in! Been using DGCF since I sold all guitar-related stuff and moved back to my beloved bass

Anyway, a question. I’m currently using D’Addario XT Nickel gauge 45-105, every string feels and sounds good except my D string which started alright but got muddy over the course of several days with the XT installed (I think the XTs actually suck).
I ordered a set of DR Lo-Riders in the same 45-105 gauge for the same tuning. Will that be sufficient or should I get a 50-110 instead? I was thinking maybe the Tite-Fit and stainless steel construction of the Lo-Riders would just give me a little bit more tension without actually going up a gauge.

Any thoughts?

Personally I always have a higher gauge for DGCF, minimum +5 on each string but sometimes I buy 5 strings set to only use the lower 4 and some of these have 130 at D, which is THICK and gives a THICK fat D.
Best thing to do though, is compare the tension figures, like a few post earlier mentioned. Generally you'll see the same tension for DGCF at +5 guage, which means you hardly have to touch the truss-rod.

See these two posts:

So... bass 2 out of 3 is in D-standard now (the pressurewounds for the fretless arrive soon), and I have two things to report.

1. These Stringjoy strings are really great! They feel fantastic, they respond really nicely to different kinds of attack. Two days in and they've settled in beautifully! I used the Stringjoy tension calculator to decide on a set for D-A# on a 35" scale, and settled on 110, 90, 65, 60, 35. They're great! Thanks to the 35" scale, that 110 manages really well if I downtune it to a C even. Thanks again @MirandM and @RodRy !!

2. I'm just loving D standard!

After having spent the last 4 weeks trying out the GHS Pressurewound L7200 (40-96) on my Yamaha, I finally get a chance to put the PW M7200 (44-106) on my J to work for the next few weeks.

After spending an hour or so this morning, working on a few of the songs I'll be doing this coming weekend, the initial impressions are very positive as the M7200 tuned to DGCF has a very similar playing feel to the L7200 tuned to EADG. Comfortable stiffness for the left hand for fretting action without feeling too loose and floppy under the plucking fingers.

Here are the tension numbers for the two sets... (for those who care about such trivial things in life. )

PW L7200, tuned to EADG:

G 040 - 37.2 lbs.
D 054 - 36.5
A 076 - 39.3
E 096 - 34.2
(Total 147.2)

PW M7200, tuned to DGCF:

F 044 - 34.4 lbs.
C 062 - 38.6
G 084 - 37.4
D 106 - 38.1
(Total 148.5)​

 

[P Cheen]

Personally I always have a higher gauge for DGCF, minimum +5 on each string but sometimes I buy 5 strings set to only use the lower 4 and some of these have 130 at D, which is THICK and gives a THICK fat D.
Best thing to do though, is compare the tension figures, like a few post earlier mentioned. Generally you'll see the same tension for DGCF at +5 guage, which means you hardly have to touch the truss-rod.

Thanks! Looks like i’m gonna have to try the 50-110 Lo-Riders. Maybe experiment with the low D (115 or even 120). The only reason I bought the 45-105 was because it was an NOS that someone was selling for $10 + shipping so I thought why not.

The thing is my bass is perfectly set up for DGCF with 45-105 strings, so if I do go up +5 I would have to adjust my truss rod by a tiny bit.

 

[MirandM]

Thanks! Looks like i’m gonna have to try the 50-110 Lo-Riders. Maybe experiment with the low D (115 or even 120). The only reason I bought the 45-105 was because it was an NOS that someone was selling for $10 + shipping so I thought why not.

The thing is my bass is perfectly set up for DGCF with 45-105 strings, so if I do go up +5 I would have to adjust my truss rod by a tiny bit.

Very likely otherwise you'll have more neck relief, it all depends on how strong the neck body combo is.
But also on which strings you're going to use. Not all strings have the same tension figures, hex cores are stiffer than round cores etc, etc. Just try.

Take measurement of the string height at the first fret (seen from the body).
Than change the strings, one at a time to avoid complete de-tension of the neck and measure again.

Another way is to setup your bass with the current strings at EADG, make it perfect and than change the strings one at a time. Afterwards there should be little or no change at all. I did this with my Rick 4003 using Stringjoy customs at +5 gauge and it worked flawless, no adjustement at all on the truss rod (which can be a bit of drag on the rick).

If you're going to experiment with higher gauges be aware of the fact that you're probably in for some work on the nut as they usually don't fit.

 

[RodRy]

GHS Tension Guide

Also, our friends at Stringjoy have a pretty good one. I like to compare different tension guides from different companies.
Stringjoy Guitar String Tension Calculator

 

[RodRy]

Hey! Count me in! Been using DGCF since I sold all guitar-related stuff and moved back to my beloved bass

Anyway, a question. I’m currently using D’Addario XT Nickel gauge 45-105, every string feels and sounds good except my D string which started alright but got muddy over the course of several days with the XT installed (I think the XTs actually suck).
I ordered a set of DR Lo-Riders in the same 45-105 gauge for the same tuning. Will that be sufficient or should I get a 50-110 instead? I was thinking maybe the Tite-Fit and stainless steel construction of the Lo-Riders would just give me a little bit more tension without actually going up a gauge.

Any thoughts?

I have a set of Fender 45 flatwounds on my Jazz tuned DGCF and was surprised how well they worked compared to how they felt at standard tuning. If you're fond of flats, give them a try.

 

[nobass]

Hi there, just discovering this great thread.

I am currently looking for the right set of strings to fit on an Epiphone Viola Bass in D-Standard.
Does anyone here have any experience with this specific bass and tuning?

The Labella Black nylon seem like they could be my ticket but I am surprised they are described as "normal tension"
which makes me wondering, would they be to light once tuned in D-Standard?

I also find the bass very finicky with strings, especially E strings due to a weirdly cut tailpiece and would ideally be looking for a drop in with no filing needed if any available.


Many thanks

 

[MirandM]

Hi there, just discovering this great thread.

I am currently looking for the right set of strings to fit on an Epiphone Viola Bass in D-Standard.
Does anyone here have any experience with this specific bass and tuning?

The Labella Black nylon seem like they could be my ticket but I am surprised they are described as "normal tension"
which makes me wondering, would they be to light once tuned in D-Standard?

I also find the bass very finicky with strings, especially E strings due to a weirdly cut tailpiece and would ideally be looking for a drop in with no filing needed if any available.


Many thanks

Complicated, I don't have any experience with that sort of bass.
Only advice I can think of is what I did with my Rickenbacker (known for its rather weird gauges), for drop to D I added +5 gauge to each string. So in my case the standard rick gauges were: 45-55-75-105 and I ordered a custom string set of 50-60-80-110, which by the way sound fantastic.
Now I know this is a rule of thumb as there are many different string with different behavior, more flexible, more rigid, hex core, round core, etc etc you name it. I generally apply my rule thumb as a guide even though you can't always have it completely like that (I also use 5 string bass sets only using the lower 4 strings, but they tend to have a higher gauge due to the B tuning).

 

[nobass]

Thank you for your answer.

I'd like to try your rule. I just ordered the La bella FM M .
they are flatwounds .49 / .109 and medium scale so they tick all the boxes but the nylon. From what I could gather on the internet nylon strings are lighter than advertised due to the big difference in density compared to metal strings.

We'll ear how this works out soon I guess

 

[MirandM]

Thank you for your answer.

I'd like to try your rule. I just ordered the La bella FM M .
they are flatwounds .49 / .109 and medium scale so they tick all the boxes but the nylon. From what I could gather on the internet nylon strings are lighter than advertised due to the big difference in density compared to metal strings.

We'll ear how this works out soon I guess

You're welcome, and please let us know your experience. Personally on one bass I use fender nylon flats which I find great as these are round wound strings topped off with nylon to make them flat thus retaining the original round wound sound while playing a smooth as flats.

 

[Bushmaster]

Something interesting I'm finding out about the DGCF tuning is it's not just a simple matter of having two extra notes down low (D & Eb), but the way it changes the whole tonal character of the instrument - in a very good way.

I have to agree. It just sounds (and feels) good.

I have been employing standard D on both basses and guitars since the early 1980s. For basses (fretless), I've been using sets with 110" E strings, viz. D'Addario XL EXL230 Heavy (.055 - .075 - .090 - .110), LaBella Deep Talkin' Bass Roundwound 760RM Medium (.044 - .061 - .085 - .110), Pyramid Stainless Steel Roundwound (.040 - .060 - .085 - .110), Ernie Ball Power Slinky 2831 (.055 - .075 - .090 - .110), D'Aquisto Stainless Steel Roundwounds (.050 - .070 - .085 - .110) and Rotosound Jazz Bass RS77LE (.050 - .075 - .095 - .110). I feel I liked best the XL for their seductively thick tone.

Besides that, I also use fretted and fretless instruments in 5ths tuning (CGDA) strung with D'Addarios (.035 - .055 - .080 - .125), as well as some instruments in standard (B)EADG(C) tuning. Guess some flexibility in tuning (and other stuff) keeps life interesting.

Only advice I can think of is what I did with my Rickenbacker (known for its rather weird gauges), for drop to D I added +5 gauge to each string. So in my case the standard rick gauges were: 45-55-75-105 and I ordered a custom string set of 50-60-80-110, which by the way sound fantastic.

Is this the maximum string gauge that would fit a Rickenbacker without modification?

 

[MirandM]

...
Is this the maximum string gauge that would fit a Rickenbacker without modification?

I did need to widen the slots in the nut just a fraction. So actually with just a small mod you can pretty much fit whatever you like, like any other bass really. Some bassist have B tuning (as with a five string) which would require a heavier 130 or so gauge.
Btw, the +5 is just an indication, it all depends on what type of strings you mount. Some string have a heavier core and are stiffer requiring more tension. To have the exact gauge you should look at the strings tensions. Some manufacturers offer a string tension chart or calculator to make things easier. No general rule here.

 

[Bushmaster]

I did need to widen the slots in the nut just a fraction. So actually with just a small mod you can pretty much fit whatever you like, like any other bass really. Some bassist have B tuning (as with a five string) which would require a heavier 130 or so gauge.

Ok, thanks.

I've actually did at some stage give it a shot with a BEAD tuning (not on a Rick, though), using a
Pyramid Stainless Steel Roundwound Low Bottom 5 Heavy (.040 - .060 - .085 - .110 - .140) set. I didn't particularly like it (both for the sound and the adjustments required in left-hand technique which I found a bit limiting for my taste). And my hands had a hard time coping with the high tension. (The tension of Pyramid is almost as high as that of LaBella Deep Talkin' Bass Roundwounds.)

I also, the other way round, tried tenor tuning (ADGC). I found it nice for touchstyle, but did not further pursue this. Somewhat similar, i experimented with an EADGCF tuning on a 6-string. Somehow missed the B string, though. Perhaps I should have made the jump to a mighty 7, but I'm old enough to suffer from occasional fits of nostalgia, so I rather bought other stuff...

 

[W_R]

This a fun topic. After starting on a 5, I shifted solely to DGCF, with an Xtender for the very occasional Drop C, for several years and it’s amazing how well that covers things. I am using DR LR SS .045/.065/.085/.110 gauges. I’d be interested in trying DDT’s at some point, and NYXLs grew on me on another bass once they broke in. I’ve since added basses set up with standard and E flat, but if I had only one bass available, DGCF is a great choice!

It’s interesting that some bands have tuned lower over time in their live setups, seems part of the world is evolving to DGCF, which obviously makes you all trendsetters.

 

[MirandM]

This a fun topic. After starting on a 5, I shifted solely to DGCF, with an Xtender for the very occasional Drop C, for several years and it’s amazing how well that covers things. I am using DR LR SS .045/.065/.085/.110 gauges. I’d be interested in trying DDT’s at some point, and NYXLs grew on me on another bass once they broke in. I’ve since added basses set up with standard and E flat, but if I had only one bass available, DGCF is a great choice!

It’s interesting that some bands have tuned lower over time in their live setups, seems part of the world is evolving to DGCF, which obviously makes you all trendsetters.

Trendsetter, I don't know, I set every bass to DGCF since 1983 when I started playing bass. Tried several times on E but always came back to D, kinda grows on ye I guess.
btw, you should try black beauties at 50-110, awesome strings.

 

[W_R]

What do you like about the Black Beauties, over other strings? The DR site description seemed to focus on “as good as other strings” plus a few things like how you’d describe flats, sort of. I’m sure there is more to it... might be worth trying.