• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

D Standard Club (DGCF)

I played my Roadstar II at church yesterday (DGCF with D’Addario ProSteels 45-105) and found I greatly enjoyed the tuning. I’ve got a balanced tension set of D’Addario Chromes on their way to me that will be DGCF.

While I wait for my new Chromes I decided I would try another one of my basses in D Standard- my Ibanez AEB5E acoustic. It’s a medium scale (32”) bass with a wonderful neck. I’ve had it for almost nine years; for the majority of that time it wore D’Addario Tapes. It currently wears GHS Precision Flats Medium Scale (40-95) and they feel awesome in D Standard! I think my next string purchase will be a Medium Scale set of D’Addario Chromes for the acoustic to tune in D Standard.

So far, so good!
 
Almost have my strings sussed out for D now.

Fretted 5er - StringJoy custom set (D to Bb)
Fretless 4 - GHS PressureWound
Acoustic BG - Rotosound 44 bronze
P clone - LaBella Deep Talkin flats

Only change I want is heavier gauge laBellas on the P because the set I have is a lil bit floppy feeling in D. Gonna try that big Jamerson set.

The fretted 5 and fretless 4 both have Hipshot detuners to drop to C. It's ridiculous fun.
 
Almost have my strings sussed out for D now.

Fretted 5er - StringJoy custom set (D to Bb)
Fretless 4 - GHS PressureWound
Acoustic BG - Rotosound 44 bronze
P clone - LaBella Deep Talkin flats

Only change I want is heavier gauge laBellas on the P because the set I have is a lil bit floppy feeling in D. Gonna try that big Jamerson set.

The fretted 5 and fretless 4 both have Hipshot detuners to drop to C. It's ridiculous fun.

I find the LaBella Jamerson set is perfect for D-standard. I have a set on an Ibanez RS-824 Roadster. And don't overlook the Ernie Ball Group I flats — .055, .075, .090, .110 (stainless steel, not cobalt) — also great flats for D-standard tuning.
 
I find the LaBella Jamerson set is perfect for D-standard. I have a set on an Ibanez RS-824 Roadster. And don't overlook the Ernie Ball Group I flats — .055, .075, .090, .110 (stainless steel, not cobalt) — also great flats for D-standard tuning.

Ohhhh thanks for the tip! I adore the tone of these La Bellas, so based on your recc, I'm definitely picking up the Jamerson set.

If I get a hankering to explore from there, I'll definitely check out those EB Group ones.

Thanks so much!
 
  • Like
Reactions: RodRy
I’ve been off TalkBass a while until recently because I went through a period where I almost quit playing. I’m glad to see this thread has not completely died.

Anyway. I bought a bass the other day after a sudden urge to gig. Now I’m considering down tuning again. I can’t decide if I want to jump back into DGCF or BEAD. I’m wondering if anyone has gone to DGCF and then move down to BEAD. Or anyone who has settled back on EADG. What styles of music are y’all using D standard for?

I’ll probably end up with one of each, but I want to see if my main bass can stay in DGCF and be used for all my needs. It’s worked in the past though my needs are different than they were back then.
 
  • Like
Reactions: RodRy
I’ve been off TalkBass a while until recently because I went through a period where I almost quit playing. I’m glad to see this thread has not completely died.

Anyway. I bought a bass the other day after a sudden urge to gig. Now I’m considering down tuning again. I can’t decide if I want to jump back into DGCF or BEAD. I’m wondering if anyone has gone to DGCF and then move down to BEAD. Or anyone who has settled back on EADG. What styles of music are y’all using D standard for?

I’ll probably end up with one of each, but I want to see if my main bass can stay in DGCF and be used for all my needs. It’s worked in the past though my needs are different than they were back then.
So re-welcome then...

Style of music isn't all that important, style of playing is. Like if you're used to playing open strings on E, which is more common while on D you have to fret more (obviously this does depend on the key the music is in).
BEAD I would think is another option I might try one day as it is the basic 5 string tuning. Goes loooow, which I like. :bassist:

Got 30+ basses in DGCF and I think a few 5 stringers in ADGCF, ha... talking about weird...:wacky:
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: OOD and RodRy
I’m having some trouble. I’m tuned down to DGCF but I’m having tuning trouble. My strings are getting higher in pitch every time I tune them. Some times lower but mostly higher. I’ve tuned DGCF before and never had this problem. Any tips? I’m using my original strings which also has never been a problem for me.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MirandM
I’m having some trouble. I’m tuned down to DGCF but I’m having tuning trouble. My strings are getting higher in pitch every time I tune them. Some times lower but mostly higher. I’ve tuned DGCF before and never had this problem. Any tips? I’m using my original strings which also has never been a problem for me.
This has never happened to me but that's due to the fact that I never tune E-standard.
What I think is happening here is that for example the D string was tuned in E before.
When I look at the string tension chart of Stringjoy, that would mean a tension of 36.5 lbs
Now you change to D, and the tension goes down to 29 lbs (in both cases using a .100 gauge at 34" scale)
However the string previously had a higher tension, meaning it was under more force and thus stretched more.
Lowering the tension may result in the string trying to recover from the previous stretch (kind a like a rubber band). So once you have it in tune D, it might go up in pitch slowly as the string is shortening.
What I would do in this case is, take the strings off, leave them a month or so without any tension (you might even boil them once or twice to clean them at the same time). Then try again.
Or just use a new set of strings.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: OOD
This has never happened to me but that's due to the fact that I never tune E-standard.
What I think is happening here is that for example the D string was tuned in E before.
When I look at the string tension chart of Stringjoy, that would mean a tension of 36.5 lbs
Now you change to D, and the tension goes down to 29 lbs (in both cases using a .100 gauge at 34" scale)
However the string previously had a higher tension, meaning it was under more force and thus stretched more.
Lowering the tension may result in the string trying to recover from the previous stretch (kind a like a rubber band). So once you have it in tune D, it might go up in pitch slowly as the string is shortening.
What I would do in this case is, take the strings off, leave them a month or so without any tension (you might even boil them once or twice to clean them at the same time). Then try again.
Or just use a new set of strings.
That could be it. I’ve had that happen but never for an extended amount of time. I’m going to check it later today. I read somewhere that I might need to adjust the truss rod. It may be that it was already set low and there’s to much back bow at the lower tension.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MirandM
That could be it. I’ve had that happen but never for an extended amount of time. I’m going to check it later today. I read somewhere that I might need to adjust the truss rod. It may be that it was already set low and there’s to much back bow at the lower tension.
Using the same gauges as with E there definitely is a backbow on the neck.

Here's a chart I use for my Rickenbacker (33.25" scale). The standard ric gauges are different from what's "normal".

Code:
String    Scale Length (in.)    Pitch    Gauge    Tension (lbs.)
1           33.25               G2       0.045     40.9
2           33.25               D2       0.055     33.8
3           33.25               A1       0.075     36.3
4           33.25               E1       0.105     38.5
        Total tension: 149.5 lbs.   
            
String    Scale Length (in.)    Pitch    Gauge    Tension (lbs.)
1           33.25               F2       0.045     32.5
2           33.25               C2       0.055     26.8
3           33.25               G1       0.075     28.8
4           33.25               D1       0.105     30.6
        Total tension: 118.7 lbs.   
            
String    Scale Length (in.)    Pitch    Gauge    Tension (lbs.)
1           33.25               F2       0.050     40.5
2           33.25               C2       0.060     32.6
3           33.25               G1       0.080     31.9
4           33.25               D1       0.110     35.1
        Total tension: 140.1 lbs.

First table is standard E with the standard gauges.
Second table is DGCF with the standard gauges.
Third table is DGCF with +5 gauges.

This is the reason why I always use a rule of thumb of +5 gauge upwards with DGCF.
The overall tension is fairly equal to the standard overall tension on E.
You can also see why you need to adjust the truss rod if you use standard gauges with DCFG, because the overal tension is lower, thus the truss rod tension should be lessened (usually about a quarter or half of a turn).
Although this is made for my rickenbacker using stringjoy strings, the same applies for other strings with 34", it just changes the numbers.

How did I change my tuning on the rick? Well, it was tuned in E when I got it. So I changed one string at a time for the new gauges tuning it in DGCF, one at a time. This way there's virtually no change in the overall tension on the neck and in effect I didn't need to adjust the truss rod at all.
 
Last edited:
Last night I installed some D’Addario Phosphor Bronze strings on my Ibanez AEB5E acoustic tuned in D Standard. I didn’t have much opportunity to play it because it was late last night but I’m excited. I think they’ll be a nice change of pace from the GHS Precision Flats I had.
Could very well sound better since it's acoustic. GHS pf's are great strings but on acoustic... there might be better ones.
 
Using the same gauges as with E there definitely is a backbow on the neck.

Here's a chart I use for my Rickenbacker (33.25" scale). The standard ric gauges are different from what's "normal".

Code:
String    Scale Length (in.)    Pitch    Gauge    Tension (lbs.)
1           33.25               G2       0.045     40.9
2           33.25               D2       0.055     33.8
3           33.25               A1       0.075     36.3
4           33.25               E1       0.105     38.5
        Total tension: 149.5 lbs.  
           
String    Scale Length (in.)    Pitch    Gauge    Tension (lbs.)
1           33.25               F2       0.045     32.5
2           33.25               C2       0.055     26.8
3           33.25               G1       0.075     28.8
4           33.25               D1       0.105     30.6
        Total tension: 118.7 lbs.  
           
String    Scale Length (in.)    Pitch    Gauge    Tension (lbs.)
1           33.25               F2       0.050     40.5
2           33.25               C2       0.060     32.6
3           33.25               G1       0.080     31.9
4           33.25               D1       0.110     35.1
        Total tension: 140.1 lbs.

First table is standard E with the standard gauges.
Second table is DGCF with the standard gauges.
Third table is DGCF with +5 gauges.

This is the reason why I always use a rule of thumb of +5 gauge upwards with DGCF.
The overall tension is fairly equal to the standard overall tension on E.
You can also see why you need to adjust the truss rod if you use standard gauges with DCFG, because the overal tension is lower, thus the truss rod tension should be lessened (usually about a quarter or half of a turn).
Although this is made for my rickenbacker using stringjoy strings, the same applies for other strings with 34", it just changes the numbers.

How did I change my tuning on the rick? Well, it was tuned in E when I got it. So I changed one string at a time for the new gauges tuning it in DGCF, one at a time. This way there's virtually no change in the overall tension on the neck and in effect I didn't need to adjust the truss rod at all.
Cool chart. Way back when I first went DGCF I used one D’Addario had on their website. I always adjust if I plan on staying tuned differently, the action on my basses are usually set higher so it probably hasn’t been a large enough back bow to matter in the past. I was planning on throwing some heavy gauge strings on if I stay in DGCF. The hard part is going to be deciding on Nickle-plated, stainless Steel, or Flats.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MirandM
Cool chart. Way back when I first went DGCF I used one D’Addario had on their website. I always adjust if I plan on staying tuned differently, the action on my basses are usually set higher so it probably hasn’t been a large enough back bow to matter in the past. I was planning on throwing some heavy gauge strings on if I stay in DGCF. The hard part is going to be deciding on Nickle-plated, stainless Steel, or Flats.
don't forget ground-wounds and tapes, like the ones I mentioned earlier (post #309).
 
  • Like
Reactions: OOD