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Double Bass Daddario Prelude
- Thread starter Tango
- Start date
Hmm - Daddario's site has:
Invalid Link Removed
at which they seem to indicate they had arco in mind but this satement beggars belief:
"There are clearly a lack of bass strings on the market that really work well for students, and we set out to remedy that," says D'Addario Bowed Strings Manager David Luce.
As oposed to all the other strings available? Or are they trying to say these are their bargain basement strings? Since when have students needed a product that wasn't up to the stadard of the rest? Or do they have special qualities that makes learning easier? - he doesn't say.
Invalid Link Removed
at which they seem to indicate they had arco in mind but this satement beggars belief:
"There are clearly a lack of bass strings on the market that really work well for students, and we set out to remedy that," says D'Addario Bowed Strings Manager David Luce.
As oposed to all the other strings available? Or are they trying to say these are their bargain basement strings? Since when have students needed a product that wasn't up to the stadard of the rest? Or do they have special qualities that makes learning easier? - he doesn't say.
Might these strings are aimed at smaller basses and bassists?
The link yields this:
'Prelude bass strings are available in 3/4, 1/2, 1/4, and 1/8 scale lengths'
So seemingly they're designed for ickle basses,
and this:
'Each fractional set has been specifically designed, from the ground up, for that smaller scale, keeping the string tension appropriate for that smaller size. Plus, the Prelude strings are more pliable than solid core bass strings due to their special core, making them much easier for young hands to play.'
I'd been wondering what strings were used on those tiny basses that you see 5 and 6 year olds playing (Yorke mini basses?) perhaps this is the market the Preludes are aimed at.
By the time we get to 1/2 and 3/4 size basses I'm right with you though, Mike. I wonder how a 'student' string differs from a regular low tension string on a 'grown up' instrument, and how long they should really stay on a bass before the player graduates to a more standard string. At least in the 1/2 and 3/4 lengths, I suspect we'll mainly see these strings on the kind of basses that have coloured stickers on the fingerboards.
(This is my first time being cynical on the forum 
)
The link yields this:
'Prelude bass strings are available in 3/4, 1/2, 1/4, and 1/8 scale lengths'
So seemingly they're designed for ickle basses,
and this:
'Each fractional set has been specifically designed, from the ground up, for that smaller scale, keeping the string tension appropriate for that smaller size. Plus, the Prelude strings are more pliable than solid core bass strings due to their special core, making them much easier for young hands to play.'
I'd been wondering what strings were used on those tiny basses that you see 5 and 6 year olds playing (Yorke mini basses?) perhaps this is the market the Preludes are aimed at.
By the time we get to 1/2 and 3/4 size basses I'm right with you though, Mike. I wonder how a 'student' string differs from a regular low tension string on a 'grown up' instrument, and how long they should really stay on a bass before the player graduates to a more standard string. At least in the 1/2 and 3/4 lengths, I suspect we'll mainly see these strings on the kind of basses that have coloured stickers on the fingerboards.
(This is my first time being cynical on the forum )
I've tried the Preludes and I think D'Addario has a winner. Low tension, decent tone both arco and pizz, and a low price. I do believe they have a good product for student use or newbies who need to firm up their hands and callouses before delving into heavier strings.
Given thier physical characteristics - steel ropecores - how do you think they compare to superflexibles which I use at the mo? I might be tempted.
Veo que estos comentarios son muy viejos, pero dejo el comentario por aquí por si alguien nuevo como yo lo necesita.. yo soy bajista y compré un contra eléctrico y necesito cambiar cuerdas pero sin gastar demasiado.. según estudié las J610 van bien con la escala 3/4 del Stagg EDB.. si bien. Reo que algunas Prelude tienen núcleo de acero, en el caso del Cello y Contrabajo son de acero prensado.. ya compré un juego y en cuanto las pruebe voy a compartir mi opinión.. Para el Contra eléctrico hay muy poca info.. hasta comprar el mío pensaba que un Baby y un contra eléctrico eran iguales.. slds a todos
He said:
Honestly, I like the Preludes for their low price.
They're IMHO the best quality/price bass strings available.
YMMV, etc…
For the Stagg EUB as any other solid body EUB lower tension strings are better than mediums.
Because of the long underlength, I would recommend (used) Spiro S42W (4/4 Weich) or even downtuned S43 Solos at orchestra pitch. The 3/4 Weich (3885W) are a bit hard to play on my Clevinger EUB, but give a strong sound when plucked (and not touched). Might also be a bit short with the windings at the nut (but never tested it).
Obligato are often recommended for solid body EUBs. I tried older Evah Pirazzi Weich on my Clevinger, but they are not really easier to play than the Spiro 3/4 Weich.
The stock strings are not that bad, but oxide quickly colors the LH fingers. Enough of a reason not to play them if there are alternatives.
Because of the long underlength, I would recommend (used) Spiro S42W (4/4 Weich) or even downtuned S43 Solos at orchestra pitch. The 3/4 Weich (3885W) are a bit hard to play on my Clevinger EUB, but give a strong sound when plucked (and not touched). Might also be a bit short with the windings at the nut (but never tested it).
Obligato are often recommended for solid body EUBs. I tried older Evah Pirazzi Weich on my Clevinger, but they are not really easier to play than the Spiro 3/4 Weich.
The stock strings are not that bad, but oxide quickly colors the LH fingers. Enough of a reason not to play them if there are alternatives.
Hi DubleMIDI,
As a new Stagg owner and doing almost all Pizz, I went with the stock string set. But after awhile I just wasn't satisfied and trashed around in my old string drawer ( old stand up strings ) and found a set of Zyex for the G and D and just recently ordered the A and D strings. I realize that a lot of players don't particularly care for the Zyex, but they do suit my needs just now. My question is, why do you recommend the Mediums versus the Lights for the EUB's? I find that the medium G and D do well for pizz and much better for Arco than the stock A and D from Stagg.
Thanks,
Salty dog
The same string that feels good on an acoustic DB feels stiffer on a solid body (but probably also but a bit less on a vibrating top) EUB due to the much lower up-down and left-right vibration of the bridge.
A lower string tension gets the feeling closer to the acoustic DB feeling.
Since, due to the higher vibration reflection at the bridge of an EUB compared to a DB, the sustain of an EUB is longer using the same string, using a synthetic core or orchestral string (meant to be used for bowing primarily) on an EUB can shorten the sustain to a normal level compared to a DB.
On my Stagg I enlarged the fingerboard angle by putting a shim in the lower neck pocket. This might enhance the the effect of a stiffer string feeling due to the higher pressure on the higher bridge.
I play with a bit heavier hand and with the factory set flatter bridge angle the E string can jump out of its bridge groove.
The bridge is one of the badest things on the Stagg. Designed for equal string height, not for rising height towards the bottom strings, too heavy because of too much metal for the adjusters and painted black so changing the shape of the bridge crown will look a bit ugly or you need to remove the whole paint from the bridge (which is a lot of work and might still look ugly).
There bis a lot more to say about bad design choices of a Stagg, but it was cheap, so you get what you pay for (a bit less since the prices raised during the last ten years).
Staggs may work for bass guitar players sniffing a bit of DB air, but are far from a real DB as set up by the factory. Some needed enhancements need more work than it is worth or risk damage (i.e. enlarge the fingerboard curvature), so OK to start with but not to be used for decades.
Since I got my Staggs slightly damaged (mostly cosmetic) at a heavily discounted price on EBay, I do not complain for what I paid for, but I largely prefer my Clevinger EUB over them (which cost me more than three times the price of one of them used). But even the Clevinger got some modifications by me (mostly pickup and electronics, but also bridge and foot/endpin).
I would never buy a Stagg at normal actual prices with the design flaws it still has. Might be OK at half the price or less used.
Thanks DubleMIDI…….Yup, the Stagg isn't the best option for experienced players, but as a senior on limited income and limited back function it is suitable for my needs. Thanks for your comments and ideas.
Saltydog
Limited income was also my reason getting the Stagg.
One of the bad things on my Staggs (they differ a lot in details) was an uneven fingerboard with no camber. I didn't want to remove the finish as it would be hard to do that without removing parts of the side (well one could remove all of it around the neck where the left hand touches, but that leaves still the lower von part of the fingerboard).
A sponge under the underlengths to damp sympathetic vibration is cheap.
Keep the strings away from the headstock cheeks. If the string touches them it might break the string when tuning up. Wind in one direction (away from the nut slot) and then backwards over the previous windings.
Read through the whole Stagg megathread, there is a lot of good information inside.
Bowing is possible on a Stagg (better get one with black hair) but the string to string angle is smaller than on a 4-string DB, more similar to a 5-string DB. Having a bow helps with practicing intonation.
It doesn't need to be an expensive one, but no synthetic hair. A bow won't work without rosin. A middle soft one is good.
As I said before get one with black hair which catches the string better. Wood (even cheap one) is warmer, carbon fiber a bit colder in sound. Wood can break, carbon fiber hardly at all.
Sub bass needs to be set at the lowest setting. A conceptual mistake in the Stagg electronics.
Have fun with it!
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