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Danelectro Owners Club

Well if you are price consious (sp) I bought my Danelectro Long Horn brand new in '68, $150 at Saterly and Chapen Music in San Francisco. By 2012, I was tiring of it and finally sold it. I do still have a 2001 DCBass though and a DC59 and a mid '60s Convertible.
Price conscious? Well yeah, maybe now... At one time (in the late 90's and early 2000's) I was more of a gear fanatic and had me a Godin A4 fretless and a cherry red fretless FNA-4 Warwick that I played thru an Acoustic Image Clarus amp and an Aguilar 112 cab. -Big bucks just to get the pure sound I craved, that I realize now I probably could've gotten with an inexpensive 1/2 size student dbl bass and that AI amp... Anyway it was all sold off (here on TB, and I think the sales are still recorded) when I needed the $$, and also I was getting more gigs as a percussionist. Currently after realizing I really missed playing bass (for myself) I've been getting back into it, but more cautiously and not so expensively. So, yes, spending $500+ for a Dano would be a bit of a (tiny, but fun) leap for me I guess... :hyper:
Enjoy,
Greywoulf :)
 
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I'm considering these Labella string sets for my future new Korean Longhorn bass purchase and wondering whether they'll fit or not?

1} Labella White Nylon tapewounds, 750T-S (.45 to .105)
2} Labella 760FS-S flatwounds short scale standard (.45 to .105
3} Labella 760FL flatwounds Short Scale Light (.43 to .104)
4} Labella 760FHB2 flatwound short scales (.39 to .96 -Hofner Beetle Bass)

Thanks for any info here,
Greywoulf
 
LaBella make a specific Dano flatwound set , but the strings are quite light .
Yes, thank you, I've seen them advertised. They're very light IMO, .42-.83, and I suspect mostly set up for older earlier Danos with very small winding holes.
But they'll probably be too light for me, and I've also read some reviews that called them 'flimsy' and uncomfortable to work with. I guess I'm more interested in whether the larger medium/light Labella white tapes or flats would fit ok thru the winding posts of current reissues of MIK Longhorns. (-The winding post holes of which I'm hoping are now a bit larger?)
But thanks for replying,
Greywoulf
 
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The La Bella 760FD Danelectro set is .042 - .079. That's lighter than I'd want, but I've never tried it. But for some old Danos with non-adjustable truss rods, they were probably necessary in done cases.

1} Labella 750T-S
2} Labella 760FS-S
3} Labella 760FL
4} Labella 760FHB2 Hofner set

1: Labella 750T-S: probably yes?
2: 760FS-S: yes. This is the set I like for my Danos
3: 760FL: No, that's a long-scale set, but there is a 760FL-S set that works
4: 760FHB2: no. This set has extra "non-speaking" length behind the bridge that a Beatle bass bridge needs, but that doesn't work with a Dano bridge.
 
This one's for sale... Seller tells me he thinks it's a 90's Korean make but is not sure. Serial # is 9811950428. Can anyone tell me more info about it as I'm interested in maybe buying it... Also is there anything obvious about it's condition (besides a few cosmetic nicks) that I might be missing?
Thanks,
Greywoulf
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The original instruments in the late 90s from the Shinko factory did not have serial numbers .

So what does that mean then? Is it probably a Chinese model then? Also would this one have a truss rod? -Here's what the seller (a local NJ music store using Reverb) posted to me:

"I've done some additional research on this instrument tells me this is a late 90's Korean made bass, but all I had to go on was the serial number inside the electronics panel (9811950428) and the style of the knobs. The sticker that was probably on the back of the headstock is long gone."
 

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It looks like the original reissues with the two concentric pots , there is a truss rod but you have to remove the neck to adjust it , the good news is those necks are incredibly stable , I've only adjusted mine once , and that was twenty years ago .
As I said the first batch of reissues from the Shinko factory did not have serial numbers . And later batches were made in other factories , and then production went to China . There's not a whole lot of information on the early Evets reissues .
I'm still hoping Doug Tulloch will finish the second edition of his reference work !
 
I have a late 90's (supposedly a '98) that still has the sticker, it's a simple white strip of paper sticker with some hand written numbers on it. Looks just like yours other than color (mine is Seafoam Burst). Same tuners, bridge, round stacked knobs etc. Never looked in the panel though. The numbers on the sticker don't seem to indicate a manufacturer's date but I'm no expert, I'll have to get it out and have a look. Your number to me looks like it's possibly a 98 rather than a 99 but again I'm no expert.

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I have a late 90's (supposedly a '98) that still has the sticker, it's a simple white strip of paper sticker with some hand written numbers on it. Looks just like yours other than color (mine is Seafoam Burst). Same tuners, bridge, round stacked knobs etc. Never looked in the panel though. The numbers on the sticker don't seem to indicate a manufacturer's date but I'm no expert, I'll have to get it out and have a look. Your number to me looks like it's possibly a 98 rather than a 99 but again I'm no expert.
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That's a nice longing longhorn... I really like those seafoam burst ones!
Since it's also a nineties model did you buy it used? And have you had any glitches with the stacked knobs, electronics, tuners or bridge, etc?
-Outside of the simpler stuff like replacing strings, neck adjustments and intonation I'm not very good at doing serious work that might be required on basses. :rollno:
Thanks,
Greywoulf
 
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The only issue I've had was when I first got it the input plug-in would make noise and cut out occasionally. I pulled it out , bent the piece of the metal that connects with the tip when the cord is plugged in some so it would have more tension against the tip, problem solved. Have never had to adjust the truss rod, did have to set the action lower to suit my playing style by lowering the front on the bridge but easy quick fix. That's it.

Yes bought it used from the original owner and it was sold to me as being a `98 from the first run of Korean reissues. I have no reason to think that isn't correct but realistically no way to prove/disprove that I'm aware of. Bought it 4 - 5 years ago for $275 with a hard case FWIW.
 
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The only issue I've had was when I first got it the input plug-in would make noise and cut out occasionally. I pulled it out , bent the piece of the metal that connects with the tip when the cord is plugged in some so it would have more tension against the tip, problem solved. Have never had to adjust the truss rod, did have to set the action lower to suit my playing style by lowering the front on the bridge but easy quick fix. That's it.
Yes bought it used from the original owner and it was sold to me as being a `98 from the first run of Korean reissues. I have no reason to think that isn't correct but realistically no way to prove/disprove that I'm aware of. Bought it 4 - 5 years ago for $275 with a hard case FWIW.
Thanks. That's very helpful... I'd already offered this seller $300 (w/o any case) plus I'd pick it up at his close-by shop, no mailing required. -But so far, no reply...
However if I don't get it there I won't really be that disappointed. I'll just wait a bit more to sell some stuff I no longer play very much, then get me a shiny new black Longhorn probably from Sweetwater as I've had good results using them in the past. I've found they usually provide excellent initial setups on their stuff too.
Greywoulf
 
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