That should be shortscale DC in the above post. It’s now got a popsicle stick.
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Danelectro Owners Club
- Thread starter portaflexer
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My '18 Dead On Longhorn intonates just fine with the popsicle stick. I also have a '98 '56 U2 guitar that intonates great with the same type bridge. D'dro 11-49 EXL rounds.
Plus, I love how the bass sounds. The rosewood bridge saddle with LaBella Dano strings has that thumpy, 60s tone. I'm not changing a thing.
Plus, I love how the bass sounds. The rosewood bridge saddle with LaBella Dano strings has that thumpy, 60s tone. I'm not changing a thing.
Hey all, pardon my intrusion - I'm looking at a silversparkle Dano DC bass, the longscale version. I heard someone call it a "poor man's Rickenbacker". Any truth to that?
Nothing else sounds like a Ric. If you are interested in the Dano however go for it based on its own merits, it’s going to sound good.
Maybe, kind of, at best.
At the very least, the single coil pickups need to be in the right spots to start to cop the Ric tone. The neck pickup looks pretty close (approx the 24th fret area), but the bridge pickup is too far back towards the bridge. It needs to be at the 36th fret location for proper Ric sounds.
This is sort of similar to people saying the Peavey T40 is a Ric-esque substitute. I don't agree for the same reasons, the bridge pickup is too far back towards the bridge.
When my popsicle stick bridges sag, I replace them with Jerry Jones ones. They pop up on *Bay and Reverb, though admittedly less often than they used to.
I like the popsicle stick bridge on a (4-string) bass. The intonation is fine. But on a 6-string, a straight stick wouldn't cut it. You'd want a compensated stick, at least. I have one 6-string Dano bass, and I have a Jeff Senn bridge on that.
It would be cool if Jeff Senn made a 4-string bridge, but as far as I know, he never has.
I agree about them all sagging - but am of the other school about the rosewood - IMHO they are otherwise SO bright, they need something to dull it.
But to the point - they are EASY to bend back - you can do it the right way with a vise etc, or, in a pinch you can do what I did with one that was especially bad.
Mask it with tape over paper then affix a quarter to each side on the top and a dime in the center on the bottom. Put it between two bricks (or very hard pieces of wood, or whatever) and just stand on it. I might take a couple of tries, but it'll work just fine - if you get lucky, you'll get JUST a LITTLE up-bow which will help resist the sign in future.
Wow! A danosix post! Seems like I haven't seen one of these in years! Man, I missed you.
Good to be back. I had lots of time to over-post when I was supply teaching - and then I got a full time job and I'm only now starting to have time to look at Talkbass again.
Agreed.
They are both bright, single-coil-y basses. But VERY different in tone, feel, decay, etc. Really - if you want/need a Ric tone, you probably will be at best settling with a Dano. If you want a Dano - ain't nothing else. Same as getting a Jazz because it's "Fender-y" when you want a P - they just aren't the same thing - in either direction.
Man! I thought I'd get at least one lead. Nada! No where. Searched all eBay, Craigslist, Talkbass, Marketplaces, Reverb, etc. Crazy how tough this is to find! If anyone has one or a lead and can be convinced to sell, message me!
It might be a treasure hunt. Stay dilligent, it will pop up eventually. I had two specifiic Fender basses that were #1 and #2 on my short, short list (1st/original Gen Elite P or P2 in black or green and 1st Gen US P Dlx V in black). Took several years to eventually snag them, despite being regular production instruments and not necessarily rare. Funnily, after a couple years, when I sort of gave up on aggressively searching, they popped up and for really good deals. Plus, when they arrived, they were exceptional examples of the model.
Keep the dream alive, good luck and happy hunting!
RE: bridge plate sagging...
I had that happen to my first issue RI Longhornit when they first came out shortle after I bought. I felt I had nothing to lose so I put a slight upward curve in the bridge plate to counter the sag and it flattened to straight under string pressure and hasn't sagged since.
I can't guarantee that will work with all sagging bridgeplates since I have no idea wha they're made of or their quality. Could be I just got lucky.
I had that happen to my first issue RI Longhornit when they first came out shortle after I bought. I felt I had nothing to lose so I put a slight upward curve in the bridge plate to counter the sag and it flattened to straight under string pressure and hasn't sagged since.
I can't guarantee that will work with all sagging bridgeplates since I have no idea wha they're made of or their quality. Could be I just got lucky.
I've bent one back, and it's worked OK.
But usually I substitute a Jerry Jones bridge plate. I bought a few 10 years ago. (No! I'm not selling them! )
Some people have added a third screw at the front under the sag. Drilling a hole in the front middle probably would make it easier to adjust. I haven't added a third front screw ever myself, but it's an option.
I put a Jeff Senn bridge on my Dano baritone. It's fantastic. I'd love a bass version, or at the very least, bass saddles that would work with the guitar version.
DRB2 — JEFF SENN GUITARS
DRB2 — JEFF SENN GUITARS
You specifically want a long scale? I have a buddy with a 30" black sparkle in "good" condition he's looking to sell if that works for you.
The plate is available without saddles. You can use whatever saddles you want (of the right width)
Which saddles would be the correct width, and line up with the already drilled holes?
My ‘98 56 U2 guitar and ‘14 Squier VM bass VI both have string spacing in the 55mm/2 5/32” zone at the bridge. Seems most “wide” spacing saddles would fit these instruments.
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Thank you, but I am looking for this exact color bass. I have a silver sparkle!
