Danelectro Owners Club

[JIO]

There were a bunch of those hollow body longhorns available cheap when eBay first got going. That's how I got 2. If you dig you might find one to use as your build platform.

I bought one a couple of years ago on eBay. They were made by Kawai, a subcontractor for all hollowbody Coral guitars after MCA brought Danelectro in the late '60s. Coral folded before the '60s ended and those bodies most likely were sold-off to music store owners for cheap to liquidate inventory.

 

[crumb656]

Just got a '56 Reissue Danelectro U2. Planning to use it as a Bass VI. The current strings aren't working at E-to-E, so I need different strings. Managed to find an old set of D'Addario XL155s, so that should work. Just hope it doesn't need a truss rod adjustment, which apparently you have to remove the neck to do. I'm not about to try that myself.


View attachment 7227490

That is a sweet Dano. Looks to be a MIK Bass 6 reissue with the upgraded / pro tuners on the headstock. Both the Ernie Ball 2837 and D Addario EXL-156 should fit just fine. You could play with other sets but both of those will work. The EXL-156 are the same gauge as the EXL-155 just longer to support the Fender style Bass VI. Again nice Dano!!

 

[JIO]

Super cool pre Coral short-scale Dano D2B4 from Jeff Tweedy's collection - nice history included in copy

https://reverb.com/en-nl/item/92257...20250920_US&utm_medium=email&utm_source=braze

 

[Verne Andru]

Super cool pre Coral short-scale Dano D2B4 from Jeff Tweedy's collection - nice history included in copy

View attachment 7325895

https://reverb.com/en-nl/item/92257...20250920_US&utm_medium=email&utm_source=braze

That's to die for. If I could I would.

 

[JIO]

That's to die for. If I could I would.

You and me both brother! $3,390.39 USD... out of my range!

 

[Verne Andru]

You and me both brother! $3,390.39 USD... out of my range!

Love to see a re-issue either from Danelectro or Silvertone.

 

[JIO]

Love to see a re-issue either from Danelectro or Silvertone.

Yes, but I've seen too many RI's fall short of the originals. I own two Silvertone 1443 Hornets and a Coral Deluxe Bass, all from '68. They are very unorthodox. No tr, instead having two steel stabilizer rods, aluminum nut and side position dots, 3 attachment-point bridge covers.., and the CDB incorporating a unique solid rosewood set-back hs grafted onto the poplar neck. (pics on previous page) The early '60s Dano Dane (long scale) which the CDB was based on had a Fender-esque hs w/string tree like the Hornets. Bodies & necks were made of poplar. I very much doubt anyone would go to such lengths to accurately re-create these unique basses which differentiate them from any other bass then or now.

 

[Verne Andru]

Yes, but I've seen too many RI's fall short of the originals. I own two Silvertone 1443 Hornets and a Coral Deluxe Bass, all from '68. They are very unorthodox. No tr, instead having two steel stabilizer rods, aluminum nut and side position dots, 3 attachment-point bridge covers.., and the CDB incorporating a unique solid rosewood set-back hs grafted onto the poplar neck. (pics on previous page) The early '60s Dano Dane (long scale) which the CDB was based on had a Fender-esque hs w/string tree like the Hornets. Bodies & necks were made of poplar. I very much doubt anyone would go to such lengths to accurately re-create these unique basses which differentiate them from any other bass then or now.

I kinda like the idea of a truss-rod. Nat was being a bit stuffy when he insisted on not using them because he believed they would break.

Problem I would have with an original, like you posted, is I'd want to muck with electronics and wiring so would prefer not destroying something vintage. As long as the scale is correct, pickups are in the right spot and other hardware is reasonably replicated (things like modern bridges and tuning keys are an upgrade IMO) I'm fine with changing body/neck woods. Silvertone is using alder for their knock-offs and most have gone to maple necks, which are fine by me. Poplar is cheap and fine for bodies but not so much for necks because it is soft; maple is hard and doesn't warp as easily.

 

[JIO]

I kinda like the idea of a truss-rod. Nat was being a bit stuffy when he insisted on not using them because he believed they would break.

Problem I would have with an original, like you posted, is I'd want to muck with electronics and wiring so would prefer not destroying something vintage. As long as the scale is correct, pickups are in the right spot and other hardware is reasonably replicated (things like modern bridges and tuning keys are an upgrade IMO) I'm fine with changing body/neck woods. Silvertone is using alder for their knock-offs and most have gone to maple necks, which are fine by me. Poplar is cheap and fine for bodies but not so much for necks because it is soft; maple is hard and doesn't warp as easily.

100% well stated - I could be proven wrong if a RI was ever made in my lifetime , but I am one who believes in old, well resonated wood. I guess I'd like to see a model-updated "version"... which most likely would be an awesome bass.., but it wouldn't be a RI. Or maybe the definition of a "RI" has changed. Anyway, whatever one calls it (mojo etc) - it's real.

 

[Verne Andru]

100% well stated - I could be proven wrong if a RI was ever made in my lifetime , but I am one who believes in old, well resonated wood. I guess I'd like to see a model-updated "version"... which most likely would be an awesome bass.., but it wouldn't be a RI. Or maybe the definition of a "RI" has changed. Anyway, whatever one calls it (mojo etc) - it's real.

I got my first case of GAS over the Silvertone Amp-in-case set for $99 in the Sears catalog and my first electric was a Teisco made Silvertone with a whammy bar. Gear back then was pretty horrible for the most part, luthiers were few and far between (and expensive) and there was no internet to spread basic setup knowledge for DIY. I finally did get a Silvertone Amp-in-case guitar, but the Danelectro re-issue not an original. Much prefer the "upgrades" like adjustable truss-rod, intonable bridges, nice tuning machines, etc. on the re-issue. Not to mention I replaced the pickups and wiring to taste, so it's all good. I'd like to do the same with one of the basses.

 

[JIO]

Yep, I saw those Silvertone guitars in amp-case in person at Sears as a kid. It was before I bought my 1st Bass in '66, a Japanese long-scale badged Stadium. At that point I was clueless of the difference between a guitar & bass - but it probably inspired me to want a guitar of some sort.

 

[don21480]

Looking at a 56 single cut here from the early korean reissues - anything in particular to watch out for or be leery of? Thanks!

 

[bigtone23]

Looking at a 56 single cut here from the early korean reissues - anything in particular to watch out for or be leery of? Thanks!

I have a '98 56 U2 guitar, which I got new back then. It's been amazingly stable and reliable. Granted, I don't play it much, but the fact that the neck stays straight and the electronics never needed replacement, let alone cleaning, says a lot about how well this was built.
I did a couple things: changed the jack to a Switchcraft, installed Schaller Straplocks, changed the tuners a couple times (first to Schallers, then Hipshot locking) and did pull the bridge plate to flatten it back out, as it did a little concave bend over the years (perhaps from my 11-49 strings?).

 

[aytonfield]

I’ve been playing less than a year on a Yamaha trbx304 and I got this as a birthday present! I think it’s a Longhorn? I’m playing a lot more, well practicing more, because it’s way more comfortable. At first I didn’t feel like I could get a heavy enough sound but I’m learning how to use the amp and the tone knob/ pick up switch for different feels. I dig it and I’m excited to be starting to play and looking forward to learning as much as I can. I’m a few years away from retirement and planning on this being a big part of it.

 

[Verne Andru]

View attachment 7346620
I’ve been playing less than a year on a Yamaha trbx304 and I got this as a birthday present! I think it’s a Longhorn? I’m playing a lot more, well practicing more, because it’s way more comfortable. At first I didn’t feel like I could get a heavy enough sound but I’m learning how to use the amp and the tone knob/ pick up switch for different feels. I dig it and I’m excited to be starting to play and looking forward to learning as much as I can. I’m a few years away from retirement and planning on this being a big part of it.

Very nice. Yes, it is a Longhorn. I find it the most comfortable body shape of any guitar I've played - it sits in the lap perfectly with the neck right where you want it to be. Super light with tons of glorious lipstick goodness.

 

[E_P_1234]

Hi everyone. I recently inherited a Dano from my late father. I would appreicate any help in ID'ing it. No serial number to be found anywhere that I can see, including under the control plate. I think it's quite old and he kept it in what looks like an original coffin case.

 

[bigtone23]

Hi everyone. I recently inherited a Dano from my late father. I would appreicate any help in ID'ing it. No serial number to be found anywhere that I can see, including under the control plate. I think it's quite old and he kept it in what looks like an original coffin case. View attachment 7360453

Looks to be a 60s era copperburst Longhorn. I used to have a 63 that was nearly identical. There isn't usually much for serials, etc... but quite possibly date codes on the pots.

 

[E_P_1234]

Looks to be a 60s era copperburst Longhorn. I used to have a 63 that was nearly identical. There isn't usually much for serials, etc... but quite possibly date codes on the pots.

Thanks, that makes sense. It definitely looks like it's been around the block. I opened up the control plate. One pot says what looks like: BH4260A. The other one is harder to read...perhaps 137B43.

 

[bigtone23]

Thanks, that makes sense. It definitely looks like it's been around the block. I opened up the control plate. One pot says what looks like: BH4260A. The other one is harder to read...perhaps 137B43.

I'm seeing 137643X, which would be mid 1964.

 

[don21480]

Any tonal differences between the 56 single cut and the 59 DC short scale? I'm hunting for a used Dano and I know I don't want a Longhorn (have had a few and don't like the ergonomics) and I know I prefer short scale even though the bridge placement makes it feel longer. Locally I've been able to play the DC but not the '56 - thanks!