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Danelectro Owners Club

#601
Hey guys was wondering if someone would happen to know if changing ing a neck on a DC bass from long scale to short scale if the bridge would also have to be moved..

I keep hearing probably not,but would like to hear the opinions of the pros !
 
#602
I wouldn't mind being added to the club! Thanks!!!

This was my first bass I bought when I was 15 with my own money. Best $375 I've ever spent. Since then I modded the bridge from the standard rosewood saddle to fix intonation issue, but didn't :( and now play it with flat wounds.

By the way, because the bass is so old (16 years old), anybody have tips on a couple issues I have:

1) The input Jack got bent. I suppose I just buy a new one from that Danelectro parts page?

2) While I love the tone of the pickups, it buzzes like no other... can I mod the pickups to not buzz as much, but keep more or less the same tone?

3) Anyone else have intonation issues with this bass? I've taken it to Guitar Czar in SLC and they are the ones that set up the new bridge, but still sounded out of intonation... and they said well that's just the nature of the short scale bass...

Any time I play sunshine of my love, Sweet Jane, Come Together, or just older rock and jazz in general, I play the Longhorn!
MIK Danelectro Longhorn.jpg
 
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#603
Roster updated.

01 - portaflexer
02 - Rob Martinez
03 - rllefebv
04 - The EH Man
05 - Turock
06 - Abaroa
07 - mongo2
08 - deste
09 - JimmyM
10 - Mastermold
11 - williamk
12 - smcfarland1337
13 - jumbodbassman
14 - atomicdog
15 - rfslick
16 - Bullitt5135
17 - bamofo88
18 - sub006
19 - emblymouse
20 - msb
21 - GBassNorth
22 - guylorenz
23 - moonshinegtrs
24 - AphekGreg
25 - brokencode
26 - Farmerboymusic
27 - Wagz
28 - ddinpsl
29 - johninmemphis
30 - gus79seyffert
31 - sneha1965
32 - jasongil1
33 - 1stnamebassist
34 - iamthebassman
35 - rodl2005
36 - April
37 - JoeyDiLamma
38 - rapidfirerob
39 - Southway
40 - benlauziere
41 - FatherG
42 - JGintheHam
43 - mcgreivey
44 - King Kenton
45 - racecarguy
46 - CaptainGrog
47 - SherwoodGreen
48 - foxxiroxx
49 - johnnyangel69
50 - DENelectro
51 - RandyMolson
52 - pinebrookjohn
53 - GIBrat51
54 - suprblip
55 - 4-stringB
56 - tacman6749
57 - Thedeadking
58 - leftieray
59- jsutton1988
60 - AaronVonRock
61 - scabpicker
62 - rogerbmille
63 - danosix
64 - RicMetsBruce
65 - Back To Bassics
66 - fjadams
67 - Fuzzbass666
68 - old mark
69 - HelpImaRock
70 - R&B
71 - Robin
72 - AlexanderB
73 - biglugpa
74 - sethmadsen
 
#604
moonshinegtrs said:
I have used both the GFS lipsticks & the Kent Armstrong split tube J pickups in my builds; The Armstrong pickups may have a little bit of Dano flavor {twang?}, but without a doubt they sound like a Jazz pickup. The GFS lipsticks are great sounding and are an excellent upgrade or replacement pickup at any price, but are a steal priced as low as they are. The 6k & 4.8k are a great upgrade that will retain the Dano sound. I use a 4.8k (neck), a 6K {middle) and a 8k (bridge) in my 3 pickup builds and they work great, though the 8k starts to stray away from the classic lipstick tone.

Moonshine :bassist:
Click to expand...

Hi,

A VERY belated thanks for the advise. I actually did get to read your post a while ago, but I haven't been on long enough at any time to post a thankyou. It's really helpful to get the opinion of someone who has actually used a product rather than just reading the write-ups from the manufacturers who of course think their products are wonderful (and have a little incentive to make us think so).
 
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#605
biglugpa said:
Hey guys was wondering if someone would happen to know if changing ing a neck on a DC bass from long scale to short scale if the bridge would also have to be moved..

I keep hearing probably not,but would like to hear the opinions of the pros !
Click to expand...

It will almost certainly need to be moved as the DC was it's own bass, not an adapted short scale like all the other long scales since. It is more of a "Fender" set up in that the neck is far away from the bridge which is pretty close to the tail.

The problem with moving the bridge will be that you will probably have to move it beyond the support block.

I'd say if you want a short scale - move to almost any other model which will be available in short scale and will be convertible as all the basses that came both ways had compatable set-ups.
 
#608
jeff7bass said:
I'm in the club! I have that exact one on the right. Bought it clearout price at MF.com. Is it a great bass? No, but it's very light and it sounds great for certain types of music. With a pick, playing rock it kills. I'll always keep it because it makes for a great backup bass at gigs.
Click to expand...

I have to respectfully disagree with your statement about whether it's a great bass.

Is it especially well made? Does it have high-end tone woods and deluxe hardware? Does it have an especially beautifaully applied finish? NO

But it is a great bass? OOOOOOH Yeah, baby!
 
#609
sethmadsen said:
I wouldn't mind being added to the club! Thanks!!!

This was my first bass I bought when I was 15 with my own money. Best $375 I've ever spent. Since then I modded the bridge from the standard rosewood saddle to fix intonation issue, but didn't :( and now play it with flat wounds.

By the way, because the bass is so old (16 years old), anybody have tips on a couple issues I have:

1) The input Jack got bent. I suppose I just buy a new one from that Danelectro parts page?

2) While I love the tone of the pickups, it buzzes like no other... can I mod the pickups to not buzz as much, but keep more or less the same tone?

3) Anyone else have intonation issues with this bass? I've taken it to Guitar Czar in SLC and they are the ones that set up the new bridge, but still sounded out of intonation... and they said well that's just the nature of the short scale bass...

Any time I play sunshine of my love, Sweet Jane, Come Together, or just older rock and jazz in general, I play the Longhorn!View attachment 474708
Click to expand...


1. It's a standard jack, any guitar store will have the part for you - since you're fixing it get a good one like switchcraft for the extra 5 bucks. If you bent the PLATe rather than the jack, I would recommend getting a more standard plate (again, available anywhere) as they are more robust AND your jack will rotate less on the new one. I wouldn't do that for no reason, but if you have to replace a part, get a more functional one, unless you are totally set on "originality".

2. As Far as buzzing, if you mean hum, then check to make sure both pickups are grounded properly - this is a common problem with that era (both of my late 90s danos had to be fixed for that). If that's not the problem you can get hum cancelling pairs from anyone who makes lipstick pickups - GFS, Duncan, Kent Armstrong, etc. But these ONLY cancel when both are one FULL.

If by buzzing you mean emphasizing fret noise, raise the bridge a quarter turn to reduce buzz or possibly check that the pickups themselves aren't too close to the strings.

3. Intonation can be an issue, especially with flatwounds as they are stiffer and thicker. One trick is (again if you're brave and not worried about a little modification) you could cut down the E string bridge piece so it will go back further. Also check to make sure you have enough angle on the bridge (it should definitely not be parallel to the body) as this will affect your ability to intonate and more angle will tend to make troublesome intonation better. OR if you have the original bridge, these are actually quite functional, and if you still can't get it to intonate with the above tips, you can do the same cutting down trick on the E side to get it to go back.

And yeah - those "adjustable" bridges aren't much better than the rosewood ones - I've had two rosewood and one with the adjustable and have way more trouble with the "improved one than I ever did the with the old style.
 
#610
If you are looking for an original jack plate AllParts has them for like $7 and original style bridges for like $60 (you have to buy the bridge and the rosewood saddle separately.
OR
Go whole hog and upgrade to a fender style bridge (decent ones start at like $30) and turn it into a poor man's Jerry Jones. The surgery is relatively simple if you can measure and own a drill.
 
#612
Jimmy, I can't believe how many of your posts I agree with.

As I said above I love the original style bridge and personally have no problems with it, but if he's really having trouble with the intonation it's better to change. Poor intonation is not in the least bit charming.
 
#613
Yeah, but I've found it a pretty moot point with Danos. Here's how I setup mine, and while the intonation isn't perfect, it plays in tune.

1. Intonate the E and G string. The A and D string might not be dead on, but they'll be close enough.

2. When tuning, fret notes at the 5th fret, and tune them based on the pitch during the initial hit, not the sustain.
 
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#614
Again, totally agree. As I also said elsewhere I PREFER the rosewood to the adjustable. I think people to get too hung up on "perfect intonation at the 24th fret." If you're playing up there enough for it to matter you need either a piccolo bass or a guitar or some high-end fodera/alembic kinda poopie and NOT some funky short scale retro kinda bass.
My comment about intonation problems was about intonation PROBLEMS ie noticeably out of tune down where the bass notes live.
 
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#615
danosix said:
1. It's a standard jack, any guitar store will have the part for you - since you're fixing it get a good one like switchcraft for the extra 5 bucks. If you bent the PLATe rather than the jack, I would recommend getting a more standard plate (again, available anywhere) as they are more robust AND your jack will rotate less on the new one. I wouldn't do that for no reason, but if you have to replace a part, get a more functional one, unless you are totally set on "originality".

2. As Far as buzzing, if you mean hum, then check to make sure both pickups are grounded properly - this is a common problem with that era (both of my late 90s danos had to be fixed for that). If that's not the problem you can get hum cancelling pairs from anyone who makes lipstick pickups - GFS, Duncan, Kent Armstrong, etc. But these ONLY cancel when both are one FULL.

If by buzzing you mean emphasizing fret noise, raise the bridge a quarter turn to reduce buzz or possibly check that the pickups themselves aren't too close to the strings.

3. Intonation can be an issue, especially with flatwounds as they are stiffer and thicker. One trick is (again if you're brave and not worried about a little modification) you could cut down the E string bridge piece so it will go back further. Also check to make sure you have enough angle on the bridge (it should definitely not be parallel to the body) as this will affect your ability to intonate and more angle will tend to make troublesome intonation better. OR if you have the original bridge, these are actually quite functional, and if you still can't get it to intonate with the above tips, you can do the same cutting down trick on the E side to get it to go back.

And yeah - those "adjustable" bridges aren't much better than the rosewood ones - I've had two rosewood and one with the adjustable and have way more trouble with the "improved one than I ever did the with the old style.
Click to expand...


Hey thanks man! Both danosix and JimmyM had good insights.

And I agree with you... I'm kinda wishing I didn't sell the rosewood saddle... I thought that was where my intonation problems were, but nope...

And yes the intonation problems are happening more at the 7 to 12th fret... so I don't live there 100% of the time, but I do often play in that area.... I notice it more on the E and A string. They guy I took it to originally said that's the nature of a short scale and started playing an EB-0, short scale, and said it had the same issue, but I honestly didn't hear it.... is that something you agree with, namely that short scale is just going to have weird overtones? This is the bass I learned on when I was 14, and didn't notice it until I played a P-bass and then went back... So I'm not sure if it is "engineering" or if I have a problem I really can fix.

I'll have to look into the other things you mentioned... and yes I think it is a grounding issue because when I touch the pickup it goes away.

Thanks again for your input and experiences!
 
#616
Yes, short scale basses are more prone to intonation problems than Long Scale - intonation is caused by the stiffness in the string causing it to not act like a theoretically "ideal" string which would have zero stiffness and mass. Ironically, even though it feels less "stiff" to our hands to play a short scale with the same gauge strings, the string is actually more "stiff" in terms of the way it resonates. Thus it takes more adjustment to get intonation on a short scale instrument right (this applies to all instruments - as any tech about 3/4 guitars). And yes, there are more overtones which make it harder to achieve.

I really would say the first thing to do is tighten the back screw on the bridge to give it more angle - this does a number of things including actually pulling the bridge back a little which may be enough to solve your problem.

Also, try Jimmy's suggestion about how you tune. that puts the positions you play in tune rather than the 12th fret harmonic, which should help.
 
#617
danosix said:
Yes, short scale basses are more prone to intonation problems than Long Scale - intonation is caused by the stiffness in the string causing it to not act like a theoretically "ideal" string which would have zero stiffness and mass. Ironically, even though it feels less "stiff" to our hands to play a short scale with the same gauge strings, the string is actually more "stiff" in terms of the way it resonates. Thus it takes more adjustment to get intonation on a short scale instrument right (this applies to all instruments - as any tech about 3/4 guitars). And yes, there are more overtones which make it harder to achieve.

I really would say the first thing to do is tighten the back screw on the bridge to give it more angle - this does a number of things including actually pulling the bridge back a little which may be enough to solve your problem.

Also, try Jimmy's suggestion about how you tune. that puts the positions you play in tune rather than the 12th fret harmonic, which should help.
Click to expand...

Also, if you're noticing it since you started playing the P, try adjusting your touch. You might be fretting a little harder than you used to and bending the note out of tune. Also - many people intonate their basses/guitars to a softer touch than they use when they play. Fret like you're playing a normal song - not a digging in song, not a quiet song and adjust the intonation for that.
 
#619
danosix said:
I have to respectfully disagree with your statement about whether it's a great bass.

Is it especially well made? Does it have high-end tone woods and deluxe hardware? Does it have an especially beautifaully applied finish? NO

But it is a great bass? OOOOOOH Yeah, baby!
Click to expand...

I admit it has a sound all it's own. I traded in a bass at GC last week, while ordering a new bass, and the Dano was assigned rehearsal duty that night. We play everything from Satriani to Seals and Crofts so the bass got a workout! So did my hands because it doesn't quite play as easily as say, my Carvin B40. BUT, the bass has a low-end thump and a clarity that really cuts through. It the middle position it sings like the low keys on a piano, although the notes don't ring very long, which is fine. Some songs sounded better with it than any other bass I have, which is saying alot for a bass that costs me so little. I'll keep it forever.
 

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