Jazzdogg
Less barking, more wagging!
Test piece to the rescue; apply Truoil to your test piece, and see how well the poly bonds to the Truoil on the test piece before applying the second finish to your instrument.
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Danish Oil questions
- Thread starter rojo412
- Start date
Worth noting that there's also Rustin's danish oil, which is the one I used (apparently only available in EU, whereas Watco's only in the US). According to what I read about how to apply and finish Watco's, I would say that they're totally different animals. Rustin's cures a lot faster. That's just my experience
- Jun 6, 2004
- 6,351
- 543
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- Disclosures
- Owner and builder Clementbass
Greetings Mr. Clement, thanks for all your valuable information (and beautiful instruments)!
I have seen you mention Watco Danish Oil on a few (or several) threads here. Is there a wood/grain sealer that you use, in particular, before you apply the Watco? Is it something that could be had at a say, Home Depot?
Thank you, in advance!
Best,
Sean
I used to mix my own from a recipe an old cabinet builder gave me. It was Linseed and tung oils. I don't remember the proportion but it was mostly linseed, maybe 3/1.
Here's a bass I built in 1981
The body was Luaun (very light and porous) It soaked up about four coats before I even got any kind of surface. Several more coats to get a semigloss sheen. It was not the most durable finish, scratched easily, but was also easy to touch up with a little sanding and recoating.
- Jun 6, 2004
- 6,351
- 543
- 66
- Disclosures
- Owner and builder Clementbass
Tru oil gets nice and hard but I've yet to get a shine out of it, unless I don't sand or wool the last coat, but it's hard to do that because runs happen so easily as do dust and small particles. I have one neck that I left the last coat on and it's nice and shiny, but not perfect, one or two run spots and it's not perfectly even. I have heard you can sand and buff it but last time I tried that (on a redwood guitar top) it didn't get past a matte finish. I probably just needed more coats and more drying time.
I will say this, Tru oil REALLY brings out figure in wood. That neck I did was rock maple, no evidence of any figure until I applied the oil, then a beautiful flame appeared!
I will say this, Tru oil REALLY brings out figure in wood. That neck I did was rock maple, no evidence of any figure until I applied the oil, then a beautiful flame appeared!
Davidmh said:Should have clarified - airrifle stock.
But yes, some people in the UK have a gun or two.........
I like plain boiled linseed oil for a shiny finish. I've never done a body, but I'm on my 2nd neck - takes forever though.
Wow that looks great, mate! Have you, or anybody else listening, tried poly over Danish oil? Would that yield a similar result as what we see here? Thanks again.
Poly will give a nice shiny finish, and will go over Danish oil if it's dry. but be sure to sand the finish before applying your poly.
Then apply, sand/apply,sand/about twenty times for a mirror finish.
Oil gives a better/nicer to the touch/more usable finish on a neck.
Davidmh said:
Thanks for this info, David. I likely will go linseed oil on the neck, poly over watco danish for body on current project!
