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Smooth side. I need suede against my shirt - priority. I just need to be very careful to keep the suede clean. It's more the leather edge of the top (smooth) layer I'm concerned about. I got some Feibing's leather dye and will go to work as soon as I gather the time and courage .
Well y'all it came out great, exactly what I'd hoped. Thanks to @gopherbass for the dye suggestion, first one made. Fiebing's leather dye was easy to find, easy to apply, colored just right and dries completely stain-free. Thanks also to the member who pointed out that our fingertips are also leather and accept dye readily - gloves solved that one.
Oh, and thanks to Franklin Straps for a very soft and lovely piece of leather. The original color / texture was "Bison". Thanks all!