Found a slightly loose bridge screw on the e-string side of the bridge. Loosened the strings and tightened all bridge and neck screws....It got better!
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
Dead spot removal
- Thread starter johnk_10
- Start date
Found a slightly loose bridge screw on the e-string side of the bridge. Loosened the strings and tightened all bridge and neck screws....It got better!
I would like to ask:
If adding weight to the neck can cure a dead spot, does it have to be added to the headstock? Could it also work if inserted into the heel to avoid neck dive?
If adding weight to the neck can cure a dead spot, does it have to be added to the headstock? Could it also work if inserted into the heel to avoid neck dive?
There are a lot of super-heavy aftermarket bridges out there. If they were a sure-fire fix for dead spots I'm sure we all would know it by now.
Just bought a MTD 535-24 with a maple fingerboard and ash neck - i was blown away by the marvelous B-String, best i got so far BUT i only checked the common dead spots (c-c#) at the store and then after buying it, a heavy dead spot on the D-String around A (Ab and Bb are also lightly affected) ocurred to me. Never heard of this area as a common dead spot but read some replys in this thread with the exact same Note.
I ordered a Fatfinger and hope that it will get better then. Its a pity. This can happen with every bass despite the price or exclusiveness of the luthier. When the Fatfinger wont work i may consider a Drop Tuner (also more mass) - Im unfortunately not a good home worker; So the initial method in this thread seems to be great but i have to find a luthier to do it for me ... ;-)
Fun Fact: Fastest way to check the fingerboard for dead spots is to just play with an octaver. Even at little Dead Spots the Octaver will directly switch to Overtones and you can hear it way more faster than just checking it naturally.
I ordered a Fatfinger and hope that it will get better then. Its a pity. This can happen with every bass despite the price or exclusiveness of the luthier. When the Fatfinger wont work i may consider a Drop Tuner (also more mass) - Im unfortunately not a good home worker; So the initial method in this thread seems to be great but i have to find a luthier to do it for me ... ;-)
Fun Fact: Fastest way to check the fingerboard for dead spots is to just play with an octaver. Even at little Dead Spots the Octaver will directly switch to Overtones and you can hear it way more faster than just checking it naturally.
Turnaround
Commercial User
I've had more luck with dead spots by removing weight rather than adding it. If the Fatfinger doesn't do it, try lighter tuners.
Also, a 7th fret dead spot is the best place for it, as you can play that note without muting the adjacent string (octave). It will reinforce it and make it undead.
All this talk of the dead and the undead is getting a bit harrowing. . . 
All this talk of the dead and the undead is getting a bit harrowing. . .
But at least it's not the walking dead. A nomadic dead spot is the last thing any of us needs.
if it's not been addressed maybe a poll would aid in knowing what design has more issues with dead spots, most prominently, the straight Fender type headstock vs angled in regards to the affect at / after the nut.
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,588
- 221,963
- Disclosures
- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
But you could be playing a walking bass-line and hit a dead-spot along the way... (not nomadic - but possibly chromatic)
I recently received a Harley Benton PB-50. In spite of having a really thick neck the 7th fret on the E sounds muted and some frets after that one sound kind of hollow. The tungsten weights maybe the way to go for me.
Before drilling into your headstock, try tuning down a whole step and see if the dead spots move. Then try clamping weights to the head to see if it helps. Also if you can try lighter tuners, that is often the best solution (if it works).
I hate to revive an old thread, but I couldn't believe my dumb luck today and I wanted to share it with you. I have the dreaded dead spot on the 7th fret of the G string on my Wal fretless. After reading this thread, I thought why not check if my 1.3oz SNARK clip-on tuner would shift the dead spot. I had to find the right spot (the end of the headstock), but IT DID! The dead spot is 90% gone. Before anyone makes any non-reversible modifications of your bass, you might want to try a headstock clamp-on tuner. You also might get lucky
I've been using Fat Finger clamps since they first came out. It (or something like it, like the tuner) is the best quick fix for the most common areas. It works best on Fender headstocks because of the room they allow for finding the best FF location. I've used them with some success on 2+2 as well, if you can find the sweet spot among the tuners. It moves the DS towards the nut.
They also work best on single piece necks with or w/o a FB. Multi-lam necks can be problematic. The FF might move the spot to an even less desirable location. I put one on a 3 piece Hamer Cruise bass and the DS moved to right in the middle of the neck on the A string.
I keep two FF's "permanently" mounted to two of my basses, and two that float among the others. I like to use them often because they generally tighten up the bass overall.
They also work best on single piece necks with or w/o a FB. Multi-lam necks can be problematic. The FF might move the spot to an even less desirable location. I put one on a 3 piece Hamer Cruise bass and the DS moved to right in the middle of the neck on the A string.
I keep two FF's "permanently" mounted to two of my basses, and two that float among the others. I like to use them often because they generally tighten up the bass overall.
