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Deadlybird/ Gojira

#222
themarshall said:
Cool prosthetic horn. Would a binding post/Chicago screw work in lieu of the acorn nut? Would it be possible to tap the horn itself?
Click to expand...

What does that look like? The aluminum is thin - if it were thicker tapping it would work. Considering this is the prototype, I could see a cast piece that was more slender but rigid and would have this sort of thing engineered into it.
 
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#223
JIO said:
What does that look like? The aluminum is thin - if it were thicker tapping it would work. Considering this is the prototype, I could see a cast piece that was more slender but rigid and would have this sort of think engineered into it.
Click to expand...
What about something like a rivnut?
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#224
JIO said:
:) Thanks! Hey man - you nailed it! I changed the cap and it's where it should be tonally with a nice fat bottom end with with the tone knob rolled off. But as much as the other cap didn't have the bottom or much tonal variance - it had a nice rich mid sound so I'm considering adding a two-way mini-switch to give the option to go from one to the other. I saw it on a Seymour Duncan page.

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I have this mini toggle - can it work as the SPDT Switch?
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Click to expand...

Cool! Yeah, its just 2 SPDTs in a common package. Just pick the set of 3 you want to use.
 
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#227
JIO said:
Cap switch mod done.

View attachment 3369354

View attachment 3369355
Click to expand...
Cool. I have one bass where I replaced the tone pot with a 6 position switch with different caps, left the speed knob on it so it goes down to '4' - the biggest cap, and '10' has no cap. I don't recall the values I used. I may revisit that mod soon and play with some different cap values.
 
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#229
themarshall said:
Sex bolt - Wikipedia
Click to expand...

Oh, I guess I knew it as a barrel nut - "sex bolt" is one missing letter away from what's becoming the future all too quickly... ;) The T-nut I used could even work but it would have to have the pointy bits filed off and then be epoxied to the aluminum. Both could offer a somewhat shorter tail but optimally I think a cast piece is worth designing and looking into as far as cost to fab.
 
#233
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#234
Beej said:
OMG Awesome! How can this not sell in like 10 minutes? T-bird enthusiasts, what's up??? :woot::woot:
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Well, thanks for that Beej :) - we'll see. I'm a bit of an insider (T-bird player since '74) so I know the wicked beast, warts and all. ("wicked" as in, wicked cool bass!) What I've primarily done with these birds was focused on correcting a shortfall - namely its design flaw of not having an upper horn. It's one of the things that sets it apart visually... but doesn't help it functionally regardless of what anyone says. But.., a T-bird can be managed with the help of a wide suede leather strap, and early on I looped the thin lower length of the strap over the elbow-bout which pulls the body into your body and the combo ends neck-dive forever. My extension solves another aspect of its less-than-ideal functional design which is, it shifts the bass back and brings first-position into optimal left-hand territory. You see, T-birds are long - 50" long from bottom to top. Couple a long bass with no upper horn and with its upper strap-peg location the bass not only neck-dives but it's also a reach to first position. A comparative test is to strap on a Fender and let go of the bass - it stays put to begin with, and positioned with the back belly bevel, first position is a natural reach. To achieve something close to that with a T-bird, you need to ride the bass back (toward the bridge) which puts the stub where a horn should be right in your rib. I know, because I have a sensitive spot on my rib from years of playing my '64 II. (bruised indelibly) On my Factorbird fretless and a bit later on my Saundersbird (my first Fenderbird) I sculpted/beveled that upper stump (back) so there wasn't a hard edge at my rib. Worked like a charm. Didn't do this on these Deadlybird's because I did serious chambering on the upper wing section interior so a bevel there wasn't possible. The reduced weight and better balance lessened its need and it also doesn't require looping the strap over the elbow bout. So a number of problems solved.

FTR, some T-bird players sling them low, which makes most of my balance fixes 'mute' - but with a removable extension, an upper step peg could be added to the usual place. Something for everybody. :thumbsup:

Factorbird fretless - opposing bevels
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Saundersbird - stickers since removed...
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first upper strap-peg extension on a Tele guitar bodied fretless (gilded also)
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strap-looping on my '64 II
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#235
Took the Deadlybird II to a power trio rehearsal earlier today. They (the brothers Taylor) are used to the Deadlybird IV (which they really like) but both agreed that the one pu DB II sounded "better" today. As I said, the pu location is the same as my Teiscobird which is not a standard T-bird or P-bass location. I came up with it (can't remember exactly why) but once again- it delivers! 2 different basses with some similarities with the pu location the same both offers up one rock machine! Mark (drummer) remarked that the body looked like it was made of plastic (satin Sonic Red) and he's right! It has a definite 'plastic' look to it which is awesome! As in - how many awesome sounding basses are made of plastic? (or at all) I have always liked ebony fb's also. Maple necks look and sound great - but something about maple/ebony really feels like home to me. The AllParts Fender Authorized J neck has been on a couple of my basses over the years, primarily with flats - so the frets after polishing them are like new. There's memory in that neck and I could sense it today. Makes me think I should sell the black one instead of the red one which is already on eBay and Reverb. Or both, as they are proven to play/sound great. I'd miss them but I can always make another.

2 (killer basses) out of 2 are good odds so far. :bassist:

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#236
I just ran across this thread. I like both of the new 'birds. I think the satin paint with the chrome from those big dark stars really makes them.

I just got into Tbird shaped basses with a Spector. I like it, and I'm considering a 'bird body for my bass VI now.

I didn't see it mentioned, but what thickness is the aluminum you used for the strap extensions? Nice work on the removable one.

-Jake
 
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#238
Revisitation after over 3 yrs ago... finally got around to converting my (ex-Deadlybird) now "Godjira" Fenderbird to having a removable strap-extension. The reason for going through the extra trouble is so the bass will fit inside the nice moulded/form-fitting interior Epiphone HSC.

Unlike the red T-bird version, I had to deal with the (originally) Epi-Goth neck plate area issues. Not sure why two random holes were there, but one interfered with my 2 new holes. I plugged the top one and left the central one, and drilled for the two Dunlop Strap-Lok cups.
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Because of the holes and plug, I cut a base-plate of thin plastic that would cover-up that area. I countersunk for ferrules so the neck-attachment screws are exposed for removal. With an added plate, once the cups are installed - it's semi-pertinent. (can be removed from the neck pocket w/neck removed) I had to order 4 black neck-screw ferrules before I can put it back together.
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How the Strap-Lok cups are attached -
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Extension w/plastic spacer and padding for a secure connection.
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I used the extension I originally made for it and if I eventually sell this bass I will cut a new one to conform better and that doesn't have the 4 corner holes. Since it's my bass and it's on the back, I find no need to go to further trouble at this point.
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As you can see - a bit cock-eyed... a future new one will be visually integrated. Works good otherwise.
upload_2023-7-27_13-36-58.jpeg
 
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