Deglossing a bass body

[SolarMan]

I went over that silver spot again that you see on the contour of the bottom of the body, just because.
Turns out there is another layer of paint under it.
Why are there so many layers!?

I guess I'll just take it all off down to that layer.
This is going to take a while.
No wonder that guy on the Les Paul forums said he spent 9 hours on it.

So, you found more red under that silver spot on the crest of the forearm contour? That would mean that you have cut through red,silver,red,silver, and back to red!

It will be very tricky to get it all down to the same layer of red.

Interesting how this bass is painted. Are you sure this is an original factory finish?

 

[RyanJD]

So, you found more red under that silver spot on the crest of the forearm contour? That would mean that you have cut through red,silver,red,silver, and back to red!

It will be very tricky to get it all down to the same layer of red.

Interesting how this bass is painted. Are you sure this is an original factory finish?

Yes. It's the Squier Affinity PJ in Metallic Red. I just got it new from Musician's Friend.
And apparently it has about 100 layers of paint!
I guess I'll just keep at it and see what happens.

 

[RyanJD]

I went through the finish on a tiny spot by mistake.

Out of curiousity, how would you guys feel about me going all the way through the finish on all of it? Would it look really bad?

 

[JIO]

I went through the finish on a tiny spot by mistake.

Out of curiousity, how would you guys feel about me going all the way through the finish on all of it? Would it look really bad?

depends where the tiny spot is to start with - if it isn't in a location that is either unnoticeable or a realistic spot of player wear... how do you feel about stickers?

 

[SolarMan]

Yes. It's the Squier Affinity PJ in Metallic Red. I just got it new from Musician's Friend.
And apparently it has about 100 layers of paint!
I guess I'll just keep at it and see what happens.

That upper horn is down to the same layer, and I gotta say I couldn't do that.

You are in uncharted waters as far as I can see!

Show the picture of your burn through. We need to see it.

(Is this the way all Squires are painted? Anybody know?)

I say that no matter what happens, you are helping others learn. And I do appreciate it.

 

[RyanJD]

That upper horn is down to the same layer, and I gotta say I couldn't do that.

You are in uncharted waters as far as I can see!

Show the picture of your burn through. We need to see it.

(Is this the way all Squires are painted? Anybody know?)

I say that no matter what happens, you are helping others learn. And I do appreciate it.

Thanks for your support.
I think I should've just roughed up the top layer and then polished or waxed it to get the matted look. Instead I went way too deep.

Here's where I'm at for now:



You can see the wood at the top and I came close down at the bottom contour.

From what I've learned, the paint layers are:
1. Red
2. Silver
3. Red
4. Silver
5. Red
6. Silver
7. Wood

The area of the bottom contour that is dark due to lighting is on layer 5. Most of the area of the top horn is on 3.
And most of the area under the pickguard is layer 1, but sanded down, so it's less glossy.
This is getting confusing. I'm not sure how I should handle this.

 

[RyanJD]

Here's a better picture on the horn.

The reason it happened is stupid.
I was putting too much pressure on it for too long with the Scotchbrite pad.
The body got hot and the pad kind of melted on there after a bit. It became green and hard.
I couldn't get the melted-on stuff off of the body with the pad so I put some fine grit sandpaper on the sander.
Well a little bit of work took the green gunk off but then I hit the finish as well and boom. Wood.

That's a fail.
I definitely should've done it by hand.

 

[skred]

Furniture finishers method: mineral oil and pumice applied gently with a felt pad, wiping often to check results.

 

[SolarMan]

View attachment 345408

Here's a better picture on the horn.

I'll tell you what. Stop right now.

This actually has some pretty cool marks on it.

- Spend the next week or so just reading up on Relicing a poly finished bass -

(Yes, you are into Relic mode)

(although, this is some easy to rip through multi-layer something or other...not what I had on my CV squier AT ALL)

You are getting the feel of the sander. You have some good experience to think about. Let it play on your mind as you explore the possibilities from here.

You can do it...

And I bet you do.


☼


The flip side of this coin is that: If you "learn" how to relic a poly finish, you might screw it up - so instead just keep going!

 

[fuzzy beard]

I say strip it and see what the wood looks like! I love a natural finsh. Hand rubbed stain anyone?

 

[JIO]

Here's where I'm at for now:


From what I've learned, the paint layers are:
1. Red
2. Silver
3. Red
4. Silver
5. Red
6. Silver
7. Wood

This is a very odd discovery. I have to think that an inexpensive instrument normally wouldn't have so many layers of paint. Only 3 realistically - primer, silver and red. Perhaps this was a body that the factory used to get a new painter up to speed - trail and error like. Sort of baffling.

 

[3star2nr]

Ok before the flames start flying i am not looking to relic my bass. I simple prefer satin finshes.

Ok i love my Mustang bass but the high gloss 3 tone sunburst body and the satin almost white maple neck have never been a perfict look to me. I would like to sand the finsh down to a nice satin finsh. But i have a few questions!

Is this polyurathan?

Is the clear very thick?

Has any of you done this?

Comments, questions, and concerns?

Yes the clear is very thick I just refinished and retopped my bass get some 220 grit sand paper and sand it down to the paint. Then simply re clear coat it using the french polish method. Shellac is good for this cause you just rub it on. I used the premixed can from home depot i think its called bullseye.

You only need one coat of shellac it will finish with a satin finish that feels nice and soft almost like touching a piece of leather rather than a hard poly finish. You can keep sanding and applying to get different finishes. After about 4 coats you'll have a close to mirror finish. Go further and u won't be able to play it without blinding people.

 

[RyanJD]

I'll tell you what. Stop right now.

This actually has some pretty cool marks on it.

- Spend the next week or so just reading up on Relicing a poly finished bass -

(Yes, you are into Relic mode)

(although, this is some easy to rip through multi-layer something or other...not what I had on my CV squier AT ALL)

You are getting the feel of the sander. You have some good experience to think about. Let it play on your mind as you explore the possibilities from here.

You can do it...

And I bet you do.


☼


The flip side of this coin is that: If you "learn" how to relic a poly finish, you might screw it up - so instead just keep going!

You know, I really like the relic look, in fact, that was why I PMed you about whether or not the finish would wear easier after sanding it.
I could give it a shot.

I say strip it and see what the wood looks like! I love a natural finsh. Hand rubbed stain anyone?

I'm thinking about it. How would you guys do it?
Just slap some sandpaper on the sander and obliterate the finish?

I guess this is a win-win.
I go for a relic look. If I fail, I'll strip it!

 

[JIO]

You know, I really like the relic look, in fact, that was why I PMed you about whether or not the finish would wear easier after sanding it.
I could give it a shot.




I'm thinking about it. How would you guys do it?
Just slap some sandpaper on the sander and obliterate the finish?

I guess this is a win-win.
I go for a relic look. If I fail, I'll strip it!

If you really want the finish off, stripper is the best way to go, followed by sanding any remaining residue. However, these inexpensive bodies (basswood?) may not yield a wood-grain or 'nice natural look' worth exposing.

As far as a nice base for a refinish, you could stop at any point as whatever you've done so far is probably plenty smooth and relatively even.

Third and last choice ("artful distressing") you should probably pass on. Just have a feeling you'll get more frustrated. (and what need really...) I'm watchin' yer' back here.

 

[verycoolname]

i will agree with that,, it very efficiently went thru the clearcoat, & thru the colorcoat, down to the primer, & destroyed the finish.

i can probably do a body & headstock ( the slow way ) by hand in about 2 hours, using the correct materials to do the job.

i do encourage you to learn the correct procedures while working with finished painted surfaces. it will save you alot of headaches, time & cash in your future projects.

it's a learning process,, good luck

So, I started looking at this thread because I want to buy/mod/degloss a Squier, and I gotta say you're being kind of a buzzkill here. Just because it's your way doesn't mean it's the right way.

Give the guy a break; it's his bass. He made a mistake, and he's going to learn from it...he doesn't need you being negative and calling him a "noob."

/endrant

RyanJD, I say your best bet is going for a relic look; I doubt that the Squier will look good natural, so you'd end up spending more time refinishing it. Best of luck.

 

[fuzzy beard]

I will look for the pics but you would be surprised what some of these look like natural. Bronco's, jag's, p's, and j's. Search around here.

 

[Rip Topaz]

Sorry to hear it didn't go as planned.

Citristrip will take the remaining finish off pretty easy if you decide to go that route.

Personally, I like basses with natural finishes where the grain doesn't always line up. Or you could hit the auto store and go the Duplicolor route like I did when I went too far with mine!!

Don't let any comments here discourage you. Most people are just bystanders anyway and only have opinions, not experience with this sort of thing. Lots of opinions fly when you open the relic can!!

I love relic finishes, so the ratty the better!! Keep updating though, I'd like to see where it ends up.

 

[NorCal Dog]

So, I started looking at this thread because I want to buy/mod/degloss a Squier, and I gotta say you're being kind of a buzzkill here. Just because it's your way doesn't mean it's the right way.

Give the guy a break; it's his bass. He made a mistake, and he's going to learn from it...he doesn't need you being negative and calling him a "noob."

/endrant

RyanJD, I say your best bet is going for a relic look; I doubt that the Squier will look good natural, so you'd end up spending more time refinishing it. Best of luck.

i've been finishing wood, metal & plastic products for most of my life. do i know it all ? hell no, & i never will.

but i do know ( thru pure common sense ) that you don't remove a finish coat ( clearcoat ) with scotchbrite, as it's the wrong tool for the job. ( sanding paper doesn't melt to your product )

post # 39 has it right, " take some 1500grit & it'll take about 45 min to do a body " ( as opposed to the 9hrs the guy took on the LP ? )

there's alot of misinformation being given like, the poly coat is very thick, & the poly coat is tough as nails,,, uh,,, no it's not. paint is measured in wet mils, & dry mils. a mil is pretty thin. & as far as it being tough as nails, probably, when you're trying to cut it with the wrong tool, but it removes very easily with the right tool, ( & it's a very thin coat )

don't take all this inspiration in this thread as gospel, do a little research on your own first & good luck with your squier

 

[RyanJD]

I started a new full-time job, so my project has kind of just been sitting on the back burner for a while now.
I did start relicing it a bit I think I could actually make that work if I continue to go über slow and take extra precautions.
But I'm just looking at different peoples' experiences and doing some reading as of now.

I will look for the pics but you would be surprised what some of these look like natural. Bronco's, jag's, p's, and j's. Search around here.

Still kicking around the striping idea. I didn't find many results as far as pictures of stripped Squiers though.
I'm assuming a greater chance of a miss than a hit as far as wood matching, not that I would mind much.

But anways, it sounds like sanding it to strip it is rather arduous and that using a heat gun (at least initially) makes it easier.
This link was a good read:
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The guy was actually stripping a metallic finish as well, so I can relate.
(But I'm still baffled by the 6 layers of paint on mine...)

Anyone think I could use a hair dryer as a substitute for a heat gun? Lol!

 

[SolarMan]

Congrats on the new job!

And...if you do strip it and don't like it, you can repaint it with nitro and let it wear natch.

Still, I would like one of the experts here to explain your paint job with all of those crazy layers.