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Detailed video on fret leveling and crowning.

Fwiw: I'm a big fan of the StewMac Z-File Fret Crowning File. This file, plus a sharpie, seem to make crowning frets quite easy.
Same here. They're not cheap but they work exceptionally well. Almost impossible to screw up your frets using the Z-File. I have both the original and the safe edge. If I had to find a fault with them because nothing is perfect. If you are working on a set neck instrument the file is pretty long and when you get high up next to the body you need to make sure you put a lot of tape on the body so you don't accidentally scratch the finish. Now they make a shorter one that works for high up on the neck but I haven't bought one of those yet and I don't know if I will. I also have the Fret Guru crowning file and I can use it up high on the neck. A person will also need a good fret end dressing file too. I have the StewMac and the Music Nomad models.
 
A couple of caveats with respect to the DIY video.

The idea of a falloff at the end of the fretboard is good in theory, but the problem is how to determine how much is enough or too little. This is where a tensioning jig is useful, or alternatively levelling the board under actual string tension. When using the jig or when under string tension you do not need to create any falloff - the neck is already flexed and you just need to get the frets all level. Falloff can be tricky. if you don't account for it in the setup of the instrument, what was intended to be falloff ends up as a peak in the neck profile that will fret out when playing above the 12th fret.

And the second reason you might want ot use a tensioning jig (or level under string tension), is that what may be level without string tension may not be when the strings are brought up to tension. It would be great is the wood actually flexed evenly, but wood is not homogenous, so it may form an uneven curve under tension. So flatten it under tension and there will be no problem.
 
A couple of caveats with respect to the DIY video.

The idea of a falloff at the end of the fretboard is good in theory, but the problem is how to determine how much is enough or too little. This is where a tensioning jig is useful, or alternatively levelling the board under actual string tension. When using the jig or when under string tension you do not need to create any falloff - the neck is already flexed and you just need to get the frets all level. Falloff can be tricky. if you don't account for it in the setup of the instrument, what was intended to be falloff ends up as a peak in the neck profile that will fret out when playing above the 12th fret.

And the second reason you might want ot use a tensioning jig (or level under string tension), is that what may be level without string tension may not be when the strings are brought up to tension. It would be great is the wood actually flexed evenly, but wood is not homogenous, so it may form an uneven curve under tension. So flatten it under tension and there will be no problem.
The leveling beam I purchased from Stewmac won't allow me to level under the strings. Buying a tension jig is a great suggestion but unfortunately an expense I can't afford right now. I just need to get the frets straightened out to get the bass playing much better.
 
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The leveling beam I purchased from Stewmac won't allow me to level under the strings. Buying a tension jig is a great suggestion but unfortunately an expense I can't afford right now. I just need to get the frets straightened out to get the bass playing much better.
StewMac sells Fretbar brand under string fret levelling files 4.5 to 18" in length. I've got the 4 and 1/2 in one and they seem to work pretty good for spot leveling while it's under tension. You definitely need the long one if you were doing the entire neck.
 
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