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Dingwall Owners Club

#30,021
NBD
Today my purple Afterburner 1 5 string arrived, nice nice nice.
Tomorrow I'll try to take some pictures because no pictures no bass isn't it?
The neck needs to be straightened a bit and just to be sure I'd like to ask which part of the trussrod wrench I need to use. The trussrod lies very deep in the neck so I can't see it very well.
When I tried to insert the wrench with the part where the yellow tape is (see attached picture) it seemed to fit but there was a still a little movement possible and I was under the impression that it should be a very tight fit. The other end of the wrench however didn't seem to fit.
Am I doing this the right way?
I hope I've made myself clear, English is not my native language and I'm trying to explain the best I can.
20190712_221207.jpg
 
#30,023
Really wish I had the energy to play more today, but WOW, it feels like a lightweight 35 scale rather than a 37, sits in the lap comfortably, neck is almost perfectly balanced, profile is perfect, not too fat, not too thin, lovely rolled fret-board. Sounds pretty good so far, kinda EMG-active sounding, but with some passive snarl to it.

Needs the tiniest bit of relief in neck as I get a little buzz on first 3 frets, but I'm going to let it relax before I do any adjustments.

Oh, and all it has is a couple fish-eyes super tiny and hard to see.

Impressed so far, maybe after some espresso I will be awake enough to enjoy it.

I am also joyed that it looks better in person than in photos, I'ts got a really cool grey tone about it, I have a Yorkville amp (Canadian made) and I could play Rush...after eating some pancakes and maple syrup, after working at my Canadian owned company... somehow Canada is slowly taking over my life, and I'm ok with that.
 
Last edited:
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#30,024
MGBR said:
NBD
Today my purple Afterburner 1 5 string arrived, nice nice nice.
Tomorrow I'll try to take some pictures because no pictures no bass isn't it?
The neck needs to be straightened a bit and just to be sure I'd like to ask which part of the trussrod wrench I need to use. The trussrod lies very deep in the neck so I can't see it very well.
When I tried to insert the wrench with the part where the yellow tape is (see attached picture) it seemed to fit but there was a still a little movement possible and I was under the impression that it should be a very tight fit. The other end of the wrench however didn't seem to fit.
Am I doing this the right way?
I hope I've made myself clear, English is not my native language and I'm trying to explain the best I can.
View attachment 3474682
Click to expand...
I always use the ball end of the wrench. Not that I use it very often - my ABI neck is very stable.
 
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#30,025
I try to avoid ball end hexes because poorly made ones love to strip fasteners. I also adjust the truss rod with it slightly down tuned (if I am making it flatter) or slightly sharp tuned (if making it relax), Shouldn't be an issue with maple, but with my Wenge neck bass I had to be SUPER careful with the truss, because the wood is very ridged.

I also only adjust 1/8 every hour and a max of 1/2 a day. But usually it only takes 1/16 turn if it's already close.
 
#30,026
Wyvern said:
I try to avoid ball end hexes because poorly made ones love to strip fasteners. I also adjust the truss rod with it slightly down tuned (if I am making it flatter) or slightly sharp tuned (if making it relax), Shouldn't be an issue with maple, but with my Wenge neck bass I had to be SUPER careful with the truss, because the wood is very ridged.

I also only adjust 1/8 every hour and a max of 1/2 a day. But usually it only takes 1/16 turn if it's already close.
Click to expand...

I had a stripped trussrod nut a couple years ago on a Super P. Based on my conversation with Sheldon, use the ball end of a quality (unworn) wrench. If tightening, use your hands to apply pressure to the neck to straighten it —and then turn the wrench to tighten. I.e., don’t try to straighten the neck with the trussrod ... just use it to hold the position. Hope that makes sense.
 
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#30,027
wvbass said:
I always use the ball end of the wrench. Not that I use it very often - my ABI neck is very stable.
Click to expand...

Wyvern said:
I try to avoid ball end hexes because poorly made ones love to strip fasteners. I also adjust the truss rod with it slightly down tuned (if I am making it flatter) or slightly sharp tuned (if making it relax), Shouldn't be an issue with maple, but with my Wenge neck bass I had to be SUPER careful with the truss, because the wood is very ridged.

I also only adjust 1/8 every hour and a max of 1/2 a day. But usually it only takes 1/16 turn if it's already close.
Click to expand...

whirledpeas said:
I had a stripped trussrod nut a couple years ago on a Super P. Based on my conversation with Sheldon, use the ball end of a quality (unworn) wrench. If tightening, use your hands to apply pressure to the neck to straighten it —and then turn the wrench to tighten. I.e., don’t try to straighten the neck with the trussrod ... just use it to hold the position. Hope that makes sense.
Click to expand...

Thanks for your help, tomorrow Ill take a stab at it.
 
#30,028
Played a little more just now, still blown away by how well it plays, it just begs for you to slide across the frets. the B and E string have so much character, instead of a dull boom you can hear all the overtones along with the deep tone, even compared to the same scale LTD, this has a much better low response.

My only gripe is highs are a little brittle unless you EQ it out. Is there not a High/mid switch on the EMG electronics?
 
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#30,030
MGBR said:
NBD
Today my purple Afterburner 1 5 string arrived, nice nice nice.
Tomorrow I'll try to take some pictures because no pictures no bass isn't it?
The neck needs to be straightened a bit and just to be sure I'd like to ask which part of the trussrod wrench I need to use. The trussrod lies very deep in the neck so I can't see it very well.
When I tried to insert the wrench with the part where the yellow tape is (see attached picture) it seemed to fit but there was a still a little movement possible and I was under the impression that it should be a very tight fit. The other end of the wrench however didn't seem to fit.
Am I doing this the right way?
I hope I've made myself clear, English is not my native language and I'm trying to explain the best I can.
View attachment 3474682
Click to expand...

whirledpeas said:
I had a stripped trussrod nut a couple years ago on a Super P. Based on my conversation with Sheldon, use the ball end of a quality (unworn) wrench. If tightening, use your hands to apply pressure to the neck to straighten it —and then turn the wrench to tighten. I.e., don’t try to straighten the neck with the trussrod ... just use it to hold the position. Hope that makes sense.
Click to expand...

I use the ball-end on my Dingwalls. Their truss nuts tend to strip easily in my experience. I have had to replace my ABZ nut and I have had others that were getting close. That being said, their design is one that makes replacing the nut easy and cheap.
 
#30,033
MGBR said:
NBD
Today my purple Afterburner 1 5 string arrived, nice nice nice.
Tomorrow I'll try to take some pictures because no pictures no bass isn't it?
The neck needs to be straightened a bit and just to be sure I'd like to ask which part of the trussrod wrench I need to use. The trussrod lies very deep in the neck so I can't see it very well.
When I tried to insert the wrench with the part where the yellow tape is (see attached picture) it seemed to fit but there was a still a little movement possible and I was under the impression that it should be a very tight fit. The other end of the wrench however didn't seem to fit.
Am I doing this the right way?
I hope I've made myself clear, English is not my native language and I'm trying to explain the best I can.
View attachment 3474682
Click to expand...

Congratulations on your Afterburner! As previously stated, use the ball-end of the wrench. Just go slow and feel your way until it seats. On a five-string, I de-tune the middle string and move it out of the way (my tip of the day :cool:).
 
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#30,035
spiritbass said:
Congratulations on your Afterburner! As previously stated, use the ball-end of the wrench. Just go slow and feel your way until it seats. On a five-string, I de-tune the middle string and move it out of the way (my tip of the day :cool:).
Click to expand...

Thanks.
Ok so it looks like all of you use the ball-end, is that because the other end doesn’t fit or is it just preference?
 
#30,036
MGBR said:
Thanks.
Ok so it looks like all of you use the ball-end, is that because the other end doesn’t fit or is it just preference?
Click to expand...

I think it allows you to get a good fit on the nut without being competely straight in line with it .. like maybe up to 35 degrees off.

Really I just do it because Sheldon said so. Good enough for me! :thumbsup:
 
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#30,038
So far I only played with headphones but it sounds great, I have two rehearsals with very different bands coming up so that will be the real test.
Style-wise I'm not in the Darkglass distortion camp so I was a bit worried that the bass itself would be too aggressive sounding.
But for now it seems like I can get every sound and feel that I need.
Fast switching between different settings needs a bit of time I think and I'm not totally sure if that will work because of the huge volume differences between settings.
Its probably wiser to pick the best setting for a certain band/occasion and let my fingers dictate the tonal changes that are needed (plus a bit of eq maybe) instead of using the pickup selector and the series/parallel switches.
Oh, and I tweaked the neck a bit and it plays like a dream now.
 
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#30,039

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