My first thought after seeing the neck pic was “How did they string it with DR Black Beauties without a body or tuners?”
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i agree. the wood grain looks continuous across the fret board.
Fair, the lined I have owned were factory made with one exception which was converted by a legit luthier.It's more common with conversions, mainly because the wood is accustomed to the pressure of the frets when the fingerboard was made. After removal (always a brutal job on a well made fretted bass), the chances are almost 100% that the wood will "miss" the frets and will expand from the relief of the pressure. Forming exasperating divets around some of the slots, usually about 6 months or so later. This happens no matter how careful you are about press fitting similar wood into the slots. And no matter how perfect the board is when you first do the conversion.
Don't ask me how I know that.
Factory lined FLs have the inserts put in in the slots when they were cut as-is, so there's less chance of the wood responding to a relief of pressure against the sides of the slots.
But if you own a bare-wood lined long enough, and play it with low action, the chances will eventually rise above 50% that you will get a hint of a buzz in at least one location. And it'll be a location that you use all the time and it'll drive you crazy. You can go over it with the bass in a jig with a good radius beam and get rid of it, though, so it's not fatal. But you do have to have the tools and the willingness to dress the board a little more often.
So, Dingwall isn't just whistlin' Dixie on this one...
L
I prefer fretless basses (there are a few) with lines and dot markers on the side. But since I have not yet found one that has all the other features I want, I stick with "traditional" lines on the fingerboard.Anybody else catch this? I couldn't find a thread and I'm curious what you all think.
From their post:
"Dingwall introduces the new segmented-line fretless fingerboard.
Lined fretless fingerboards provide a great visual reference, but often the filler material can cause buzzes during seasonal changes due to differences in expansion and contraction.
By using segmented fret lines, Dingwall ensures that the fingerboard surface directly under each string is solid wood along the entire length.
The segmented fret lines provide the visual reference of a lined fretless with the consistent tone of an unlined fingerboard."
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This is an interesting technical innovation from Sheldon & Co. The white lines being segmented isn't the point of the design, it's just a side effect.
What they've done is make a segmented "modular" fingerboard. After installing white lines in the normal way, they've routed slots down the length of the fingerboard, directly under the five string paths. Then they've glued strips of hardwood down in those slots, and machined them true. It's five narrow individual fingerboards inlaid into a larger fingerboard.
The point is: Those five narrow strips are the critical part of the fingerboard. That's where the string contacts the wood. Those strips need to be consistent and accurately machined for a fretless bass to have a smooth even tone everywhere up and down. If you read up on how us Luthiers get crazy surfacing fretless fingerboards, it's mostly about the technique of truing up the string paths.
Sheldon & Co. have come up with a way to install the string paths as separate strips of wood, ensuring that they are as consistent and true as possible.
Not a luthier but I've spent some time on CNC machining centres; I'm wondering did they just cut little grooves for the inserts on a CNC machining centre/milling machine. Its a relatively simple process especially if that is already how they cut the groves for their frets. After that its just a matter of gluing in the inserts and finishing (which could also be achieved to a high standard on the same machine).
I like it. Some good engineering, improving the state of the art.
Hope you figure it out!I prefer fretless basses (there are a few) with lines and dot markers on the side. But since I have not yet found one that has all the other features I want, I stick with "traditional" lines on the fingerboard.
I really want to try one, but, I don't think I'll own one unless a used one comes up at an agreeable price. Given how few are made in a year, I don't see it happening. For now I'll stick with my Pedulla.Interesting, but I don't think I'd ever play a multi-scale fretless. I do own an AB-I and it's a great bass, but fretted.
No you can't and @Sheldon D. the man himself has confirmed that.What??? I can plainly see the difference in the grain in the strips of wood that are inlaid. It looks like the strips were milled from the same board that was used to make the fingerboard, so the grain is a close match. But you can see the glue seams.
If I have have to explain that to you, there's no hope for humanity.
whoever can play this in tune gets a hundred dollars
I really want to try one, but, I don't think I'll own one unless a used one comes up at an agreeable price. Given how few are made in a year, I don't see it happening. For now I'll stick with my Pedulla.
Maybe 6 a year, according to the man that makes them, per his post one page back.I would be shocked if they make more than ten fretless Canadian Dingwall basses in a year.