• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

DIY High Mass Bridge for Under $10!

Zooberwerx

Gold Supporting Member
Dec 21, 2002
23,296
28,057
68
Virginia Beach, VA
...well, sorta. Here's a list of limitations, disclaimers, etc:

*Not my idea. I ripped it off from a G&L users' website.

*The platform is the G&L locking bridge with thru-body stringing option. I'm of the assumption the mod will work on virtually any thru-body configuration like the Peavey Millennium.

*The mod renders the string-thru option useless but is easily reversible.

*The parts are readily available and the project itself require only the most basic of tool skills.

*The premise is that the G&L proprietary bridge is held in place by only 2 screws and is prone to "lift". The project reinforces bridge attachment while the addt'l hardware adds some mass.

*Excuse the poor photography...the shakes are back.

*Tools and hardware required: set of micro files, PH and FH screwdrivers, hacksaw and/or Dremel tool with cut-off wheel or narrow grinding wheel, 6/32 2" steel machine screws (PH / flathead), 6/32 threaded aluminum spacers 1/4" X 1/4" (available thru McMaster Carr if necessary).

Here's the hardware. The screws have been cut back to 1 13/16" length...YMMV depending on body thickness. The spacers were notched on one end to accommodate a FH screwdriver (see last pic). You can use the Dremel...I did mine by hand with the side of an el-cheapo flat file.

SpacerScrew_zps4381782f.jpg


You may have to cut back the screw a few mm so as not crowd the spacer's notch.

I removed each string, one at a time, and inserted the screws thru the bridge / body.

GLBridge_zps3a610059.jpg


The notched spacers (prepped with a drop of blue Loctite) are inserted in the string ferrules on the body reverse and threaded onto the exposed screw thread. There is minimal wiggle room so be prepared to grind off addt'l screw material if necessary. Apply a PH screwdriver to the front, FH to the rear and crank 'er up.

GLBridgeRear_zpscfbd895e.jpg


Pretty neat, huh? Does it work? Well, the bridge hasn't flown off yet and the sustain is slightly better on my test instrument. I really cannot attribute this to change of bridge mass, though. The project is akin to adding inserts anywhere one component interfaces with another.

Enjoy and let me know if you have questions.

Riis
 
  • Like
Reactions: chapito
if the main complaint is weakness in the bridge mounting (and I'd agree that two screws is a little light for top-loading a 5)...wouldn't just stringing through the body be the simpler solution? Then the force on the bridge mounting screws is pretty much negligible.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Huw Phillips
if the main complaint is weakness in the bridge mounting (and I'd agree that two screws is a little light for top-loading a 5)...wouldn't just stringing through the body be the simpler solution? Then the force on the bridge mounting screws is pretty much negligible.

More than likely. I don't really know if the issue is truly valid to start with. Stringing thru-body is perfectly acceptable but is also accompanied by its own little quirks. For that fact, the G&L bridge assembly (per what I've read) has block on the underside which fits into a recess in the body which is how they get away with only two mounting screws in the first place.

The old adage may hold true: this may be a solution looking for a problem. It was a fun project, though.

Riis
 
There's also a fairly involved preamp mod which reins-in the somewhat extreme treble boost seen in active mode. Hasn't been a problem for your's truly as the bass is sporting a set of mildly-worn Chromes and fully-functioning treble cut knob.

Riis