IME, cab specs should be taken with a very large grain of salt for many manufacturers. I don't include Greenboy or Mesa in that category.
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Have a Greenboy built and specify every single part right down to the screws.
I looked briefly, but the specs look like less low end than other cabs. But that could be because they are reporting legit numbers.
But I like that they would be easily able to find replacement speakers should one ever blow. Something like Barefaced? Not so easy. I could definitely compromise on the tolex as long as it’s not rat fur.
Plus, I know Mesa will be quality.
Looks like the Subway 115 or 210 might do the job. I didn’t like the 112 tones on YouTube. Then I’ll just need to decide 2x210, 2x115 or 210+115.
I just Honda Fit and it can legit carry an Ampeg 810. Of course, it didn’t come with a roadie, so that’s not even a consideration. I think the two cab approach is best. And the new car is spurring this decision to change cabs. Just looking at all of the engineering nuances in my Walkabout shows that Mesa really cares.
As far as affordable mass produced stuff yeah I’d say there’s pretty much always some compromise.With basses and even amps you can buy no holds barred, high end basses and amps that don’t cut any corners on quality or construction. But cabs always seem to be a compromise - heavy weight, rat fur or tolex, Duartex that’s gooped on, no t-bolts, cut corners on the crossover, etc. I guess the closest to a high end cab that I would consider “ideal” is the Greenboy F112, but I dislike the wedge format. It seems like everyone is trying to keep costs down on cabs where that’s not usually the case with basses. And you don’t hear a bass, you hear the notes from the speaker. I’ve found my ideal bass, but the quest continues for the ideal cab.
My definition of ideal is an 8 ohm cab that I can double up on larger gigs and use singly on smaller gigs. Sub 45lbs per cab (using the single weight plate standard), truck bed liner, handles 400-500W, quality construction, real handles - not the silly straps. Tone and low end extension, of course.
I considered Acme 112FR, but they have low sensitivity so you need to pump up the wattage and then I start to need a bigger amp. Dr Bass’ BL115 checks most of the boxes and I have an older RX series that I use for rehearsal and like. The obvious issue is - will I get the cabs.
Everything seems like you have to make more of a compromise than with basses and amps.
Engineer IS compromise. As AgedHorse said, even if money is no object, something else is. From a pure "bass cabinet" point of view, weight is actually a compromise. If it were not, you'd be ok with a 600lb cabinet. Covering is also a secondary characteristic (ie, rat fur or color changing tolex don't make it sound any better.) Figure out what it is you want, then go from there. Money is of course, typically one of the constrained parameters for most folks.
So what DO you want?
Engineer IS compromise. As AgedHorse said, even if money is no object, something else is. From a pure "bass cabinet" point of view, weight is actually a compromise. If it were not, you'd be ok with a 600lb cabinet. Covering is also a secondary characteristic (ie, rat fur or color changing tolex don't make it sound any better.) Figure out what it is you want, then go from there. Money is of course, typically one of the constrained parameters for most folks.
So what DO you want?
) to supplement my Rumble cabs to have flexibility depending on the venue and load-in.