Do I want a Rickenbacker bass?

[rodak]

An early '73 4001 will have full width inlays, checker board binding, a toaster neck pickup, an aluminium "gap-tooth" tailpiece, and wavy Grover tuners. Over the course of the year, the tailpiece changed to the cast Zinc (with no gap), the inlays shrank, and the binding became plain. I have seen some late '73s with Kluson "reverse" tuners - Grovers and Klusons were both used in '74, and Grovers may have lasted into '75.

The neck pickup will be 1/2 inch from the end of the fretboard. It was moved to the current 1 inch spacing in '75. The truss rod cover will be flat plexi. The moulded plastic TRC was introduced in '75.

With Rickenbackers, there is often some overlap as features transition.

Basses with all the early '73 features are considered more desirable from a collector's point of view, and usually attract a price premium as a result.

The usual caveats for 4001s concerning potential truss rod abuse apply.

Also, I think '73 was the last for the lettering on the control knobs.

 

[Igotsoul4u]

You should be able to tell by the pickups, tailpiece, and checkered binding. If it was very late in the year it might have totally modern specs. Mid year could be a mix.

I have one because I am a Rush and Yes nut. It's really fun to jam out with at home but I don't think I would want to gig with it. The shorter scale is nice but the neck profile is not like what most people are used to. I can get along with it but a fender jazz neck feels lightyears more playable with my smaller hands. It's just not super comfortable with its hard edges on the body. After a bit of playing it digs into my plucking hand forearm.

The tone is amazing. If you like players that use Ricks it's as authentic as you can get. Part of the fun for me is picking it up and playing all the amazing songs played on a Rick.

You should go play the actual bass!! If it makes you excited see if you can get it checked out by a good tech for any neck issues. 3k is probably in a range where you can get your money back if you don't like it regardless of it being a transition instrument. I've seen them go for double that easy. It's an awesome instrument to have if you love basses. It's also cool to own an old friends instrument if that matters to you. I wanted an old one at first but opted for a more modern build to avoid any problems. The 4003s are supposedly sturdier with a better truss rod that can withstand more string tension. Slightly thicker neck is the tradeoff. I thought I might also want to play it out at some point and taking vintage instruments out is not my thing.

Mine is a Ruby pearlstar special edition. Looks stunning. I love it and probably won't ever sell it unless i have to.

 

[Bass4ThePublic]

You do… but you are a gigging musician. I’d try a modern 4003. Slim neck but dial truss rod, and a bridge that WORKS. Try that first. A vintage 4001 is SO much work to get playing right and set up.

I’m a vintage bass guy but I purposely avoid the old ricks. New rickenbackers are being built the best they EVER have been. 2026 Rickenbacker is a golden age.

 

[packhowitzer]

This is just my opinion - but I like looking at Ric basses a lot more than playing Ric basses. That said, I would never counsel someone not to buy one if they were into it.

 

[TeaTime]

You need to play one. Not just a 10 minute pass, but like for real. Play it sitting, play it standing. Play it while leaning into your vocal mic.

I was so excited to get one, I just ignored all the flags and knew it would work out because they are legendary. Very wrong. For me they are the most uncomfortable mass produced bass ever built, and I also quickly discovered I really dislike the tones I was settling into with it. I've heard a lot players say the same.

I'd say Stingray all day, except this is about you, and you'll not know until you give it a try. Bit if someone asked me which to get in a blind purchase? I've never heard anyone dislike a Ray the way I've heard many people dislike a Ric.

 

[Bar Band Bassman]

Do I want a Rickenbacker bass?​

Yes! No! Yes! No! Yes! No! Yes.
The Cliff Notes version of my ongoing Ric journey...

BBB

 

[P_Dubby]

I owned a 4001, & a couple of 4003's. I began my bass-playing life as a huge Chris Squire/Geddy Lee fan. After some time, I moved on.

I thought the Rics were well-made instruments, but they just didn't sit well with me. Not a huge fan of the ergonomics, & for someone who is 5'6", they were just... BIG.

However, if that's the sound you want, & the feel works for you, they are top-quality basses.

 

[pb9717]

A local musician and friend has a 1973 4001 that he wants to sell. He's 79 and thinks he needs to sell some things. He says that this bass has things about it that lead him to believe that it is a transition model. I know nothing about Ricks except I like the sound of them. He may bring it to our gig this weekend. I don't know if I want to spend $3K on a Rick, and I really want a Stingray too, but if I did what should I look for as being the correct features of a '73 and what might be transition features?

Thanks!

Okay.......

A rick is very different than the majority of the basses out there. The sharp edges, the retro modern look. The inherent design flaws... Early 70's Ricks have great, slim necks that are known to be weak. They do not bottom out the action against the fretboard. With the bridge insert dropped to the deck, and the neck as straight as you can get it, the strings will still be above the fingerboard, so if you're looking for screaming low action, you're not gonna get it on a Rick. But low..ish action can absolutely be had.

Secondly, the tone is unique to the instrument. Ric-O-Sound, is virtually never used. The TRS jack normally remains so unused that buildup can happen. Conversely the mono jack is what most players use, and it works fine. But the tone is absolutely recognizable, and back in the day was one of the popular sounds of the era. Today, not so much. The all maple body and Rick electrics consistently provide that unique tone across the board, and rick will always sound like a rick. The thing is, if you like that sound, then for you, it'll be worth the buy.

Conversely, you could say a lot of the same things about a Stingray. The Ash/maple/MM electrics also provide the unique tone that is a Stingray. And they too are consistent, but the Stingray recipe has a lot more variables. Rosewood, different body woods, 2 band, 3 band. Vintage versions. Its hard to speak to any specific year/model as they vary according to the recipe.

Now if you're talking vintage Stingray, then you'll likely find that to be superior to the Rick, ( as alot of players did in the late 70's and later)

You're gonna need to play it to know. And if its not setup, with fairly new strings, i think you're gonna find the experience to be less than stellar.

I've had my 71' 4001 for 46 years, and its great, but for me, it's more a novelty, a piece of my childhood, than a working instrument. And its a players Rick. Countersunk original cast bridge so the action is slammin. Frets leveled, neck bolt straight, bridge pickup replaced with a 77' one after the original essentially died. Its the best playing and sounding vintage Rick you'll ever see, but, I gigged my Lakland Saturday, (which is my favourite version of a stingray) not the Rick.

A vintage Stingray on the other hand, that'll eat a Rick for lunch.

Please let us know what you thought once you get an extended period to check it out.

 

[BigJohnAZ]

Do you want a Rick? Yes, if course. Silly question.

Maybe not that one. Play before you pay.

 

[MrAB4003]

Yes, but you want the right one.

You do… but you are a gigging musician. I’d try a modern 4003. Slim neck but dial truss rod, and a bridge that WORKS. Try that first. A vintage 4001 is SO much work to get playing right and set up.

I’m a vintage bass guy but I purposely avoid the old ricks. New rickenbackers are being built the best they EVER have been. 2026 Rickenbacker is a golden age.

This! I would look into buying a new 4003 instead of a vintage 4001. Things have only gotten better with Rics since 2022. New 4003s have a single truss rod, the much improved V2 bridge, and no more horseshoe pickup cover that was getting in the way.

2022-Present really is a golden age for Rickenbacker!

I also second the comments saying to ask us in the Rickenbacker Club.

 

[Dabndug]

As someone who owns three '70s Rickenbackers, I'd look at a new or near-new 4003, as has been suggested. Old Rickenbackers were relatively cheap back in the '00s. Anything '70s seems to have caught the vintage collector's wave since then, so the value for money equation has deteriorated significantly, and latent problems are hard to spot. The new basses are reputed to be gems.

 

[woodyng2]

For $1k less, I’d rather have this modded ‘15 Laredo. (It used to be mine, I had the mods done by Aceonbass)
Very comfortable contoured body, (with an actual forearm contour-Gasp!), a solid Schaller bridge, great sounding pickups.

Rickenbacker 4004L Laredo 2012 - 2021 | Reverb

The 4004L Laredo was introduced in the early '90s as a "Cresting Wave" style solidbody bass with a distinct visual flair along with the 4004C Cheyenne. Unlike earlier 4000-series basses, these basses lacked a pickguard, body binding and other detailing that characterized earlier Rickenbacker bass...

reverb.com

 

[godofthunder59]

If you are looking for a working instrument I'd just get a new 4003. I've had Rics from the 60's and every decade after to present. The 73 4001 won't tolerate round wound strings well, they are not designed to handle the tension, if you put a set of Rotosound RS66LD on it be prepared for a lot of positive bow in the neck. Then there is the bridge and the infamous bridge lift also caused by round wound strings. The 4003 released in '79 addresses these issues and the new 4003s are just stellar imho. Now if you gotta have a early 73 with checkerboard binding I get it, just do yourself a favor and put flats on it recommend by Rickenbacker.

 

[Prodigus Filius]

Pics in the Rick club would go a long way, lotsa cats in there know their stuff.

I'm not a Rick owner myself, but the largest club on TB per pages is the Rick club. So def a real wealth of knowledge there

 

[Greenman72]

You have to play it and try it for yourself.

Rics are like the Cowboys and Yankees. You either love them or hate them. I’m in the “hate” camp.

 

[bassdude51]

Two different questions being asked.

Do I want a Rickenbacker bass? If the price is right, yes! Otherwise, no! (Being dogmatic.)​

​

As for the '73 correct features, our wonderful TB "Ricers" will answer.

 

[Ron Berenato]

I always wanted a 4001. Until I got one. I didn't keep it very long. Terrible neck dive (a deal breaker for me). A great bass for noodling around the house, but I found it to be anemic compared to my Stingray for gigs. I still sometimes think about getting another one, but they are priced out of my range now.

 

[BassicJazzy]

If you are looking for a working instrument I'd just get a new 4003. I've had Rics from the 60's and every decade after to present. The 73 4001 won't tolerate round wound strings well, they are not designed to handle the tension, if you put a set of Rotosound RS66LD on it be prepared for a lot of positive bow in the neck. Then there is the bridge and the infamous bridge lift also caused by round wound strings. The 4003 released in '79 addresses these issues and the new 4003s are just stellar imho. Now if you gotta have a early 73 with checkerboard binding I get it, just do yourself a favor and put flats on it recommend by Rickenbacker.

I'm confused by this post. Perhaps you are talking about really heavy gauge rounds? I've always used either medium or light gauge nickels when I used rounds, and they have significantly less tension than flats. When I had my 4001 for 12 years as my only bass, I had Rick flats, then Fender flats, then steel rounds, then black tapes, then nickel rounds. My neck never moved, and I never needed a change in set-up. When I replaced the SS rounds on my new Sadowsky with light gauge Chrome flats I had to tighten the truss rod to account for the increased tension and remove some bowing.

 

[WI Short Scaler]

for me, its a hard pass.

Same for me. My first bass was an Ibanez Ric clone. Nothing wrong with the reliability of the bass but it's a big bass if you're a short guy like me. Just felt uncomfortable to play. I think they have a love/hate sort of design and you never know which side you'll be on until you try one.

 

[godofthunder59]

I'm confused by this post. Perhaps you are talking about really heavy gauge rounds? I've always used either medium or light gauge nickels when I used rounds, and they have significantly less tension than flats. When I had my 4001 for 12 years as my only bass, I had Rick flats, then Fender flats, then steel rounds, then black tapes, then nickel rounds. My neck never moved, and I never needed a change in set-up. When I replaced the SS rounds on my new Sadowsky with light gauge Chrome flats I had to tighten the truss rod to account for the increased tension and remove some bowing.

I specifically stated Rotosound RS66LD. Back in the 70s there wasn't much else. Rickenbacker specifically addressed this issue with the 4003. Now there are dozens of choices. If I remember right using anything other than Rickenbacker strings back in the 70s voided the warranty, I may mistaken it was a long time ago. Also if you Google the subject it pretty much agrees with my comments.