I don't mind some rust, but that looks excessive, particularly given that I sometimes mute at the bridge. I'd try to clean it or strip it.
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Does rust on the bridge add character?
- Thread starter Mantis Tobaggan
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The bridge certainly does not look like it needs to be replaced yet. But, rust is not a friend to metal. Letting the rust remain for "mojo" is just a tacit acknowledgement that you will be replacing it at some time in the future. I say, grab a can of Deoxit and an old toothbrush and clean it up now. Just a quick spray and brush and that rust will disappear. You can use the same can of Deoxit to lubricate the pots and switches while you are at it. Then, when its done, you will have the peace of mind of knowing that you have done what you can to preserve your bass as 100% original for as long as possible.
Hurry! If you don't fix it now that bridge only has 80-100 years left tops! All kidding aside, my fenders are the same way and I only replace the crappy black oxide screws so I can still adjust the bridge. I like the patina myself.
I dont think it has crud ... do you know a good cleaning product for the rest of the bass?
Hey I might trade if ya got oneIf you follow common TalkBass advice, you should probably replace the entire bass with a Pbass (complete with a tort pickguard and flats).
Seriously, I am guessing you didn't intend it to rust initially, so you should consider cleaning it.
I'll weigh in. I couldn't sleep at night knowing that. Lol. (I have insomnia so that really doesnt say much). I would keep my eyes peeled for a new(er) bridge - they show up here occasionally. I would also go so far as to have the old one re-chromed but thats just me.
I didn't know that was an option. Do you know how I would go about re-chroming it?
Remove the bridge, completely disassemble it, take it to a reliable plating shop and get it plated, then put it all back together and mount it back up.
That said, unless an original replacement is north of a couple hundred bucks, it would most likely be cheaper to replace rather than replate, especially if shipping to and from the plater is involved.
On the subject of reliable plating. Like painting, metal plating is only as good as the prep that goes into the piece before the plating process. Your average bumper shop will knock off the rust with a wire wheel, pasivate it, rinse it and dip it. It will look good at 10~20 feet but the pitting and surface imperfections will stand out like a sore thumb close up. A good shop will strip the part to it base metal before pasivating and plating, and will use a three stage dip process of copper followed by nickel, then the chrome on top of that, AKA triple chrome plating. Replating done right is a labor intensive time consuming process and the price reflects that.
Yikes, thanks for the answer. Sounds like a little extreme. I am leaning towards cleaning it.
That no longer is rust, that is metal corrosion/loss that occurs after the rust is removed or worn away.
Either reverse plate and remove the remainder and of the plating and then powder coat or replace or save and replace.
Cleaning it or leaving it be are aesthetic choices. By cleaning I mean light cleaning or polishing.
Don't make the mistake I made by replacing the bridge on my 77 Jazz bass (my avatar)! I should have just replaced the frozen saddles and left the bridge plate on. The guitar tech, who was not really a tech, had to chisel the bridge off of the body. He did, got the new bridge plate seated. Unfortunately the low E has never been the same.
Don't make the mistake I made by replacing the bridge on my 77 Jazz bass (my avatar)! I should have just replaced the frozen saddles and left the bridge plate on. The guitar tech, who was not really a tech, had to chisel the bridge off of the body. He did, got the new bridge plate seated. Unfortunately the low E has never been the same.
Yeah, I agree with fhm555. You're not going to be able to polish that rust off of there. It's gone through the chrome plating. The rust spots you are seeing are in the base metal underneath. Chrome doesn't get surface rust like that.
Your choices are: 1.) leave it alone, 2.) find another bridge, or 3.) get this one stripped and replated.
Getting it stripped and replated by a good plating shop is going to cost you $100-$150. It's a fair amount of work, plus most plating shops have minimum orders of about $100. Economically, it will be cheaper to get another bridge. That's your call.
If you decide to have it stripped and replated, I recommend Van Nuys Plating, in Van Nuys, CA. They work by mail order, and they have lots of experience with musical instrument parts. They do all my plating.
Your choices are: 1.) leave it alone, 2.) find another bridge, or 3.) get this one stripped and replated.
Getting it stripped and replated by a good plating shop is going to cost you $100-$150. It's a fair amount of work, plus most plating shops have minimum orders of about $100. Economically, it will be cheaper to get another bridge. That's your call.
If you decide to have it stripped and replated, I recommend Van Nuys Plating, in Van Nuys, CA. They work by mail order, and they have lots of experience with musical instrument parts. They do all my plating.
What he said
. There are a few places here in town that does it. It probably won't be real cheap but those Musicman stamped bridges are rare as hens teeth and you can forget about getting one direct from Ernie Ball. I found one in the classifieds here a few months ago that cost me a little over a hundo which I snagged real quick. EB will sell you new bridge screws (which I know isnt a deal breaker) and those bridge anchor studs though. I didnt even think to ask them about tuners. Not real sure if they sell those either.Shoot...give them a call, tell them what you have and see if you pay shipping to.get your bride there if they would just sell you a new one.
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You wouldnt happen to still have the mutes for it would ye?
Hell, just sell me the bass man. It will get played - alot
Hell, just sell me the bass man. It will get played - alot
