Pre-built necks should save a lot of time. One piece bodies are really helpful too.
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Double Sevens
- Thread starter lbridenstine
- Start date
Pre-built necks should save a lot of time. One piece bodies are really helpful too.
I was changing my bandsaw blade and started tightening up the tension knob when it just started spinning (not the knob, but the part it turns inside, behind the top wheel), so I'm guessing that it came unthreaded from whatever it's supposed to be threaded to. So I wasn't able to get anything bandsaw related done today and that sucks.
So, I used the router sled.
Spalted Tamarind and Katalox top:
Control cavity covers (not shaped yet) and headstock veneers:
Necks, fretboards:
Scarf joints (still needs to be cleaned up):
I had planned on cutting out the headstock ears and body ears, rough cut out the control cavities, and make the headstock and cavity templates today, but I couldn't do any of that without the bandsaw.
So, I used the router sled.
Spalted Tamarind and Katalox top:
Control cavity covers (not shaped yet) and headstock veneers:
Necks, fretboards:
Scarf joints (still needs to be cleaned up):
I had planned on cutting out the headstock ears and body ears, rough cut out the control cavities, and make the headstock and cavity templates today, but I couldn't do any of that without the bandsaw.
I'm going to try to fix my bandsaw tomorrow and I'm wondering if anybody has any helpful advice before I do it.
Here's a picture I found online that looks kind of similar to mine.
You can see that there's a rectangular metal casing behind the top wheel that the blade tensioner extends inside of. Whatever is wrong with mine seems to be inside of that casing, so I'm pretty sure I need to take the wheel off to get to it.
I'm not exactly sure how to get inside of the casing. I've attached a screenshot of the manual with an exploded view of the tensioning parts. Parts 107 look like they're holding the casing closed and they don't have any slots for screwdrivers and are not shaped for wrenches either, so that's one of the things I'm wondering about - how to open it. Do they just slide in and all that's holding them in place is the star lock? Are star locks easy to take off? Or is it easier than this and I don't have to take those out and the cover just lifts up? It looks like the bottom slot just rests onto the bottom part 107.
The "blade tensioner" (pt. 112) turns with the knob, but it won't tension anymore. I felt it go loose as I was turning the knob, so I don't think it's stripped, I think it came unattached from something, but I can't tell what it is supposed to be attached to by the exploded view. Does anybody know? Maybe it just threads into the casing itself?
Lastly, I was kind of under the impression that there was more to re-attaching the wheel than just placing it back on, like adjusting the balance and tracking, but I found this Grizzly video that literally just shows the guy sliding the wheel on and screwing on the cap and that's it. Is it that easy? I hope so.
Invalid Link Removed
Thanks for any advice on this. I really want to get this fixed ASAP so I can continue on with these builds.
Here's a picture I found online that looks kind of similar to mine.
You can see that there's a rectangular metal casing behind the top wheel that the blade tensioner extends inside of. Whatever is wrong with mine seems to be inside of that casing, so I'm pretty sure I need to take the wheel off to get to it.
I'm not exactly sure how to get inside of the casing. I've attached a screenshot of the manual with an exploded view of the tensioning parts. Parts 107 look like they're holding the casing closed and they don't have any slots for screwdrivers and are not shaped for wrenches either, so that's one of the things I'm wondering about - how to open it. Do they just slide in and all that's holding them in place is the star lock? Are star locks easy to take off? Or is it easier than this and I don't have to take those out and the cover just lifts up? It looks like the bottom slot just rests onto the bottom part 107.
The "blade tensioner" (pt. 112) turns with the knob, but it won't tension anymore. I felt it go loose as I was turning the knob, so I don't think it's stripped, I think it came unattached from something, but I can't tell what it is supposed to be attached to by the exploded view. Does anybody know? Maybe it just threads into the casing itself?
Lastly, I was kind of under the impression that there was more to re-attaching the wheel than just placing it back on, like adjusting the balance and tracking, but I found this Grizzly video that literally just shows the guy sliding the wheel on and screwing on the cap and that's it. Is it that easy? I hope so.
Invalid Link Removed
Thanks for any advice on this. I really want to get this fixed ASAP so I can continue on with these builds.
Best guess is that the rod, part number 112 needs to engage a threaded hole in the adjusting nut, #120. A picture of your bandsaw with the cover open would help, but I'm thinking you need to either lift the wheel up to where the rod can catch or push the adjuster down. to catch the nut, or both. I don't think you need to open everything up since that nut should be captive.
Before tearing it all apart, try removing the blade, and pushing the wheel up while turning the tension knob. I have the same issue with my little 9-1/2" POS.
Thank you both! That is so much better than taking things apart!
Mansjasont, does this happen often on yours?
@lbridenstine I don't think I have the same issue as yours.
My saw is an old piece off .... and the wheel gets stuck (mostly when I loosen the tension) so I have to physically pull it down to get it to relieve tension on the blade.
I just thought I would make the suggestion for you to try it before taking it all apart.
My saw is an old piece off .... and the wheel gets stuck (mostly when I loosen the tension) so I have to physically pull it down to get it to relieve tension on the blade.
I just thought I would make the suggestion for you to try it before taking it all apart.
Oh, gotcha. I have been having to pull the wheel down a bit when I loosen it lately too. It just sticks where it's at until I pull on it a little.
Lisa, we have the same saw. Let me go take a look at mine. Ive never had any problems with mine, but its possible that when you loosened your tension you let too much off. Anyway, I'll be right back.
OK, it appears that theres just the allen bolt holding the wheel on. Should be one of the wrenches that came with the saw and sits in the holder on the back. Once that bolt is out, the wheel should slide off and allow you to see whats going on back there.
I think I did loosen it too much. I guess I just assumed there would be something to stop it from turning too far. I'll try not to do that again!
Thanks for checking for me. I'll try to lift the wheel and turn the knob first and see if it works before taking the wheel off.
I'm kind of ashamed to say that I didn't work on the bandsaw today after saying I would (this happens all the time, I know). Super windy, dark, rainy, decided to go get pizza instead. I'll have to fix the bandsaw soon in order to not push myself further behind.
BUT, I found this video of a very simple, but very cool idea that I think would work really well for truss rod routes.
I'm not planning on cleaning up the taper on my necks until after the fretboards are on, just to leave a little room to route away after gluing, but if I still had the neck blanks parallel, or if the taper was perfectly correct, I would try this out.
BUT, I found this video of a very simple, but very cool idea that I think would work really well for truss rod routes.
I'm not planning on cleaning up the taper on my necks until after the fretboards are on, just to leave a little room to route away after gluing, but if I still had the neck blanks parallel, or if the taper was perfectly correct, I would try this out.
I looked at my bandsaw today.
I lifted up the wheel and turned the tensioning knob and it immediately started lifting the wheel like normal, actually more like when I first got it. It took 2 seconds and I was thinking "Seriously? I could have done this last weekend and actually gotten all that stuff done." But then the blade slipped off the wheel as I was tensioning, so I loosened it up a bit to set the blade back and then the wheel dropped from the tensioner again.
Someone had suggested that I pull the tensioner straight up out of the bandsaw and look at it to see if it's stripped and yup, the bottom inch of it is completely stripped.
Really, really stripped.
Luckily the same person pointed out searspartsdirect.com to me and they have this piece for $11.41 and I should be able get it by next week. Hopefully that's the only thing stripped.
I lifted up the wheel and turned the tensioning knob and it immediately started lifting the wheel like normal, actually more like when I first got it. It took 2 seconds and I was thinking "Seriously? I could have done this last weekend and actually gotten all that stuff done." But then the blade slipped off the wheel as I was tensioning, so I loosened it up a bit to set the blade back and then the wheel dropped from the tensioner again.
Someone had suggested that I pull the tensioner straight up out of the bandsaw and look at it to see if it's stripped and yup, the bottom inch of it is completely stripped.
Really, really stripped.
Luckily the same person pointed out searspartsdirect.com to me and they have this piece for $11.41 and I should be able get it by next week. Hopefully that's the only thing stripped.
Hopkins
Commercial User
The threads aren't really stripped, but rather they are rolled over. You could get a dye from a hardware store and chase the threads and probably get the tensioner usable again until the new part comes in.
Lisa, you should check with Louis Iturra of Iturra design. He may make a replacement part that is better than the original. He doesn't have a web site but you can find his phone number online.
I replaced my Jet's tensioning rod and handle with Iturra's "Spinner" and it is light years better.
I replaced my Jet's tensioning rod and handle with Iturra's "Spinner" and it is light years better.
I've already ordered the replacement, but I will have to keep this in mind in case it happens again. Thanks!
Today was the perfect opportunity to finish up some layout stuff that I've been putting off.
I marked the layout of the tuners on the headstock shape. I think I'm just going to drill pilot holes into the template to guide the pilot holes on the headstocks, then I can drill full size holes from top and back of the headstocks, but I'm still waiting until after I get the veneers glued on for that part.
I laid out the electronics to come up with a shape for the control cavity/cover.
Poll: 2 vol, 1 tone or 1 vol, 2 tone? Which would you prefer? If I go 2 tone, I think I need to buy more capacitors.
Copied the shapes over to the black limba for both bodies. I thought I could cut in from the edge for both cavities, but it turns out that I can only do that for one, so the other will have to be drilled through. I also marked where to route for the pickup and bridge ground wires.
Traced the shape back onto this after leveling it last time.
I still need to level the myrtle.
I placed small holes through the center of the pickup routes and I am going to drill those thru the tops and part way into the bodies and use them to line up the tops to the bodies when I glue them together. [The x's on the black limba picture]
And now I get to go outside in this...
I marked the layout of the tuners on the headstock shape. I think I'm just going to drill pilot holes into the template to guide the pilot holes on the headstocks, then I can drill full size holes from top and back of the headstocks, but I'm still waiting until after I get the veneers glued on for that part.
I laid out the electronics to come up with a shape for the control cavity/cover.
Poll: 2 vol, 1 tone or 1 vol, 2 tone? Which would you prefer? If I go 2 tone, I think I need to buy more capacitors.
Copied the shapes over to the black limba for both bodies. I thought I could cut in from the edge for both cavities, but it turns out that I can only do that for one, so the other will have to be drilled through. I also marked where to route for the pickup and bridge ground wires.
Traced the shape back onto this after leveling it last time.
I still need to level the myrtle.
I placed small holes through the center of the pickup routes and I am going to drill those thru the tops and part way into the bodies and use them to line up the tops to the bodies when I glue them together. [The x's on the black limba picture]
And now I get to go outside in this...
Snow here too ..Saginaw. :/Today was the perfect opportunity to finish up some layout stuff that I've been putting off.
I marked the layout of the tuners on the headstock shape. I think I'm just going to drill pilot holes into the template to guide the pilot holes on the headstocks, then I can drill full size holes from top and back of the headstocks, but I'm still waiting until after I get the veneers glued on for that part.
I laid out the electronics to come up with a shape for the control cavity/cover.
Poll: 2 vol, 1 tone or 1 vol, 2 tone? Which would you prefer? If I go 2 tone, I think I need to buy more capacitors.
Copied the shapes over to the black limba for both bodies. I thought I could cut in from the edge for both cavities, but it turns out that I can only do that for one, so the other will have to be drilled through. I also marked where to route for the pickup and bridge ground wires.
Traced the shape back onto this after leveling it last time.
I still need to level the myrtle.
I placed small holes through the center of the pickup routes and I am going to drill those thru the tops and part way into the bodies and use them to line up the tops to the bodies when I glue them together. [The x's on the black limba picture]
And now I get to go outside in this...
I think I heard we might get 10" overall between last night and today? Glad I don't need to go anywhere. Hope you don't either.
Nowhere to but my workshop, and my driveway to clear snow. It just stopped here.
FWIW: RIP old snow blower. My snow blower for over 15 years has bitten the bullet. The auger has now seemed to have come apart in a couple places.
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