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Douglas basses

Think J style with treble and bass controls. Oh yeah, i think the neck thru has less attack/snap than a bolt- on, but I can't prove it ( IOW I didn't do a blind test). They are keepers.

Okay...I am familiar with jazz styled basses. I can easily tell that the neck-through construction with the string-through body does give the bass some extra sustain. it must be a real keeper considering that it has an awesome sound and impressive features for the price.
 
I wasn't sure if this belonged in Douglass thread or the Essex thread for more participation. I'll go ahead and leave it here in case someone else does a search for one of these instruments.

Apologies in advance if this is too verbose.

About a month ago I ordered one of the Douglas Sculptor 5 NA from Rondo Music. Great service and shipping from Rondo. It arrived quickly and wasn't damaged. My signing bonus at work almost covered the full amount so I decided to throw it at my first 5 string. I hadn't thought much about using 5 string and I knew none of the the typical 4+1 headstock styles were for me but I still wanted to taste the Essex kool aid.

My bass looks much better than the one on the website which has poorly matched wood. Mine is a 3 piece body and very well grain matched with a well applied glossy finish. The fit and finish of the body and neck is good. The neck joint is tight and everything seems to be lined up and bolted together accurately. The scarf joint at the headstock looks secure but it is not made from the same piece of wood as the neck. The neck is 1.75" wide at the nut and very chunky. Not a good thing for me but I'd heard rumors to the effect so I am not marking it down for that. Be warned.

The bass was tuned up and checked for function with the stock strings and then immediately replaced with a set of D'Addario XL 50-135 from the local guitar store.

The pots are stiff and squeaky. The active electronics are quiet and the humbucker seems decent but the jazz pickup in the neck position is the weakest pickup I've ever heard. It is useless. I have added springs to the pickups but raising the jazz pickup doesn't do anything. It's lifeless and extremely quiet.

The setup on this particular bass wasn't very good. The strings were VERY high, the nut slots were too high, and even with the bridge saddles bottomed out the strings were 5-6mm off the fretboard at the 24th fret. I knew immediately that this would be problem.

It wasn't hard to dial in the neck relief (I like a very nearly straight neck) but there was a problem with how high the strings sat over the neck. I tried a few rounds of shimming with business cards and plastic material to fill the neck pocket but none of it raised the neck enough. I decided to make a full pocket width shim from scrap aluminum to raise the neck 3mm in the pocket. Even after raising the neck 3mm the strings were too high (for me) over the 24th fret with the saddles bottomed out. I like the strings low, but I've never run out of adjustment before they get into the medium action range.

I didn't want to add another full size shim so I removed the saddles and cut them from the bottom so they could sit lower in the bridge. There are two things to note about this bridge. The saddles have different sized slots for the strings so they must go back in the right order, and also that the threads for the set screw do not run the full length of the saddle.

All the above helped me gain another millimeter of adjustment at the bridge, and that combined with a .75" shim at the body end of the neck pocket to tilt the neck brought everything closer to my comfort range. I tried coming to ease with a setup without tilting the neck but the strings seemed to pop off the fretboard on the high end without one.

The nut slots were lowered so the strings rest at .65mm (.026") over the 1st fret. Also worth noting, a .135 B string does NOT fit the nut as sold. It had to be widened for the string to rest properly. My other basses are cut lower than this but I'm leaving it alone for now.

I was getting a lot of buzzing on the D and G strings in the 10th-14th fret range. This was not obvious with the factory setup but was readily observable with a Fender spec medium action. It didn't go away without a lot of relief and very high strings until I used a fret rocker to identify the offenders, knocked them down with a fret level, and re crowned the frets. I already have most of the tools to do the basic setup work but the luthier specific tools were new and this Douglass bass was a good way to begin practicing with them. I have no aspirations, I just like to tinker.

All in all.... it's been a bit of a pain. After reading so many positive things on these basses I'm wondering if mine was a poor example, or maybe my idea of a good setup is on the extreme side? My other basses, cheap and expensive (if you can call USA peavys that) have taken a better setup with less effort.

It really isn't a bad looking or poorly finished in the body and neck department. The bridge is nice and so are the tuners. However, the screws are very soft which most people wouldn't know if they weren't fussing with it as much as I have. The truss rod did the job too. The super chunky neck is very hard for me to play and the jazz pickup is terrible but I don't know if it's worth replacing. It seems to be and odd size for a 5 string jazz pup.

I'll update with some photos soon.
 
Pics. This bass matches my scrap wood coffee table nicely. There is no gap at the neck joint, just some ink that needs cleaned off where I was fitting the shim. As you can see I have trouble fitting my hand around the neck at the 12th fret. My hands are smallish and they are having trouble adjusting to the chunky neck as well as a 5th string.

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Pics. This bass matches my scrap wood coffee table nicely. There is no gap at the neck joint, just some ink that needs cleaned off where I was fitting the shim. As you can see I have trouble fitting my hand around the neck at the 12th fret. My hands are smallish and they are having trouble adjusting to the chunky neck as well as a 5th string.

18438503-holder-776d642f1f7365943b0269d9bb455a2d.jpg


18438502-holder-9c0d328ae5cef7fa4bf70296376d17e6.jpg


18438501-holder-b1f8ec0a02aa2f8e4d98e04ed570a796.jpg


18438500-holder-1576bb4dfb89774f548638440a771920.jpg


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18438498-holder-a9be91e7c4decf94d3fb4c853be4db5b.jpg

Pretty cool bass you got there, grebnaws. I was thinking of buying that bass myself sometime soon. and it does seem to match the wood on your coffee table.
 
Crystal, yes, sometimes a fret level is required. Also, instead of a full pocket shim, a shim under one end or the other of the pocket, to tilt the neck, will get you better action much easier and with s shorter ( heightwise) shim.
 
How many have you played?

Honestly, have you played many?

Saw one in a pawn shop once with a warped neck and if I had based my decision about Rondo instruments on that bass I might say the same, but after owning many Rondo instruments and Kurt awesome customer service I would say they are absoluely great instruments at the price.

Fretless 6 string with active EQ for less than 200?

Whats crap is companies that charge 1800-3500 for instruments that have flaws.-Really cannot beat Rondo for the price-and I'm including Ibanez and Squier!
 
I ordered a WOB 826 Fretless on eBay. All was fine until the order was canceled and the dough refunded. I found out later that the final inspection found big problems with the necks. Now I have a set of DR Sunbeams waiting on the shelf with no place to go. In a way I was hoping that I'd see a bunch of negative reviews that would help take the sting out of the situation, but no. Oh - of course there’s always the few folks that may have had a bad experience but by & large the press on this company seems pretty favorable. Most reviewers seem to really like the guitars, which is good for everybody I think. Some snobbery might also be at play here too. Some players wouldn't dream of visiting the low rent district of the guitar world and say so with a little snootiness. If you drop $1800 for a bass it buys you some bragging rights as well I suppose. Anyways, I sent an email to Kurt at Rondo to see when the next shipment of 6 string fretless is coming in, to help decide what to do about the strings. I'd like me one of these crappy Douglas bass guitars.
 
Just last week I got my first Douglas, the fretless Beatle bass already pictured in the thread. I'm really impressed with the quality and sound, especially for a very reasonable $169.00. When I emailed Rondo to ask a question about stock strings, Kurt got back to me in 6 minutes. Can't ask for more than that.
 
Crystal, yes, sometimes a fret level is required. Also, instead of a full pocket shim, a shim under one end or the other of the pocket, to tilt the neck, will get you better action much easier and with s shorter ( heightwise) shim.

Actually it's crystalman. and yes I understand that sometimes you need to adjust the neck in order to make the bass more playable for you.
 
I bought the fretless version of that bass and was really pleasantly surprised. I bought it used and needed just a truss rod tweak to get it just perfect. That being said, only thing i can fault the Douglas bass are the screws. The truss rod cover screws strip very easily if you're not careful- other screws from what I've heard, do too but easy to replace by taking a trip to a local hardware store. I regret selling that bass as I decided that fretless didn't really suit my style all that much. I might consider picking up a fretted 5 string version again though- I was happy with the sound for such an inexpensive price.
 
Actually it's crystalman. and yes I understand that sometimes you need to adjust the neck in order to make the bass more playable for you.

I meant no disrespect by not typing your whole handle. But you missed my point ( maybe I should have addressed it to grebnaws, since he was the one who did the shim). My point was that full pocket shims have to be much thicker to do what's needed than just a shim, in his case, at the body end of the pocket.

IOW. IF you get a Douglas, or any other bass that needs a shim, don't do a full pocket shim. Only shim the end needed to give you the angle on the neck you need to get what you need at the bridge. And for action that is too high with the saddles bottomed out, that is the body side.
 
It can't be that bad. there are many talkbass members who praise the sx basses. they are considered to be the best affordable fender clones in the market. but if those basses aren't your style, that's cool. I always believe that when it comes to buying bass guitars, it really doesn't matter how much they cost...it's the sound quality that matters most. also rondo music makes musical instruments for those on a tight budget.
I recorded this using an SX Jazz.