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DR Hi Beams.. E breaks?

#22
calebbarton said:
I have never ever had that happen...weird.

Also I paid like $20 for my hi beam sets.......double lame.

Maybe there was just something wrong with that string?
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Ill try wrapping slower this time, as previously suggested. Hopefully it wont happen again.

And yeah, thats what I get for buying from Musicians Friend. lol. I had a gift card, so why not.

I just purchased another set last night from Just Strings, $21.
 
#26
#27
Last month I wasted 2 sets of Hi-Beams because of the E core breaking at the post during an install. These were being installed on my 72' P which is about as standard a length as you can get. Landed up installing a set of Alembics I had around which will give me a close sound.
DR needs to address the length issue or just loose the business. I don't have time to call to complain. Rather than having a true "R&D" department it seems theirs is a "Research in the Field" attitude - not good. They make their profits off our backs. We shouldn't have to carry their overhead also.
 
#28
I just had this happen to my carvin. I was putting on a set of hi beams when the E snapped when the winding hit the peg head. Snapped right before the bridge. An email to customer service has yielded nothing.....lame. I will probably need to call i guess.
 
#29
Similar problem with hi beams B string Warwick corvette. Supplier replaced same day. With replacement string I put enough turns on the peg to keep the fat part of the string off the peg. No break - which proves nothing really.
 
#30
It's the outer wrap of the string being wound around the tuning post. Sometimes the Steel string can be strong enough to endure this.. Sometimes not..

The solutions:

1) Easy Way Out: Get a long nut that will act as an extender between the ball end of the string and the bass of the bridge

Example:
long-nut.jpg


This will look kind of silly, and you may notice a tonality difference (some do some don't)

2) New bridge w/the loading portion of the bridge farther back (something like a Badass bridge)

3) Convert your bass into a string-thru body.. This requires a new bridge and some routing work usually

4) Get different strings
 
#33
I have had a high beam break on me at the bridge,and I called DR and they sent me a new set no questions asked. I'm a little afraid of the whole string crimping thing,so I don't even cut mine,cuz it doesn't bother having an obscene amount of metal around my pegs.wind slow,and don't cut them if it's not going to bother you.I consider high beams to be extremely high quality,so I think you should be fine when you get a new set.if not,check your bridge for burrs.
 
#34
__HM__ said:
The second one I strung was wrapped 3 or so times, but as stated, it snapped after a few days anyway.
Click to expand...

Dang, there's your problem. You should pre-cut the strings before installing them per Invalid Link Removedguide under the Strings and Tuning Keys sections. I follow this every time, including my latest set of DR Sunbeams, and get at most 2 wraps around the post. No breakage ever.
Fender said:
Standard keys. Pre-cut each string for the proper length and desired amount of winds. Pull the fourth string 3" (76 mm) past its tuning post and cut it (make sure to pull each string taut). Insert through the eyelet in the tuning key, allowing approximately 1/16" (1.6 mm) of the end to extend through the eyelet, then wind neatly in a downward pattern, being carefull to prevent overlapping. Pull the third string 3 1//2" (89 mm) past its tuning post, cut it, and repeat the winding procedure. Pull the second and first strings 3 1/2" (89 mm) past their tuning posts and cut and wind as noted. For five-string basses, cut the fifth string 3" (76 mm) past its tuning post and repeat the same cutting and winding procedure.

Vintage keys. Pre-cut each string for the proper length and desired amount of winds. Pull the fourth string 4" (102 mm) past its tuning post and cut it (again, make sure to pull each string taut). Insert into the center hole of the tuning key, bend and crimp to a 90° angle, and wind neatly in a downward pattern, being carefull to prevent overlapping. Pull the third string 4 1/2" (114 mm) past its tuning post, cut it, and repeat the winding procedure. Pull the second and first strings 4 1/2" (114 mm) past their tuning posts and cut and wind as noted. For five-string basses, cut the fifth string 3 1/2" (89 mm) past its tuning post and repeat the same cutting and winding procedure.
Click to expand...
 
#35
I know the thread is about low riders, but a couple of guys said they were using Low Rider E and A D G sunbeams. Bought a set of Marcus Miller Fat Beams, the only DR's my local store had at the time. After talking to a couple people (some at DR) and describing my style and sound I was looking for realized MM's were not for me. I play finger style and do almost no slapping. I do boost my low end quite a bit and a little treble boost as well. I like a lot of tight defined low end. These will go on a Fender Deluxe Jazz. any thoughts? Why are some of you mixing Lo Riders and Sunbeams?
 
#37
I've been usiing DR's since I started playing bass again. Normally I play Nickle Lo-riders on my 5 and 4's. I put a set of Hi-Beams on one of my 4's yesterday and had no issues. I played it for a couple of hours afterward with no trouble and for about 15min this morning. So Far so good and they sound great. I always put my strings on so there is a minimum of 2 wraps on the post, usually 3, and after I cut the string I bend a 90 in it to go down the post about 1/2". Not understanding the point about the fat part of the string wrapping on the post though. I always end up with about 1/2 a turn going aound the post and have never had a problem with it.
 
#38
Never had a problem with any DRs myself either, be it Hi, Sun or Fatbeams. But I guess the salient point is they did in fact acknowledge to the OP their QC issue.

Guess it's up to them to make it right again in the minds of (dis)affected customers.
 

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