Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
DR Lo-Riders vs. Hi-Beams
- Thread starter rsautrey
- Start date
Ewww..that's not correct at all. FatBeams are identical to HiBeams, except that FatBeams are wound at a slower speed. Other than that, HiBeams and FatBeams are the same exact string....hence the 'beams' in their names. It's even explained in the article you posted.
So I find it very very strange that you hate HiBeams, but love FatBeams. The only difference is that the FatBeams have more bottom end. You might want to check again what strings you actually have
My mistake, you're right, I think it's that the Hi-Beams and Fat Beams sound completely different on my bass. The Hi-Beams had almost no bottom end at all whereas the Fat Beams sounded nearly identical to the Lo-Riders to my ear. I had the hi-beams on for about a week before I had to take them off and swap them with lo-riders as I just really didn't dig the tone. Thanks for catching my mistake there, I think the sound is what threw me off.
I'd really like to try the nickel plated lo-riders next.
I've just ordered a set of Hi-Beams for my Stingray after a good couple of years being a staunch Elites devotee. I can't wait to test them out.
Same here. Tried them on my P and Im really digging them now that theyve worn in a little.
IMHO
Low-rider = hex core, stiffer, low mids presence,bright, nice over all slapping sound.
Hi-beams = round core, flexible, mid scoop, very bright, the strings for slapping if you ask me.
good luck
peace
Low-rider = hex core, stiffer, low mids presence,bright, nice over all slapping sound.
Hi-beams = round core, flexible, mid scoop, very bright, the strings for slapping if you ask me.
good luck
peace
Agree with DaveAceofBass. about the "FatBeams". They are more punchier in the low mids which therefore cut through the mix better for me. HighBeams have a Mid-Scoop that is good if you're a slapper. But, FatBeams on my Jazz Bass, soloing the bridge pickup (Nordy nj4se), nails that Jaco, staccato sound.
After years of trying different strings I settled on DR about 10 years ago. LOVE LOVE LOVE DR Hi Beams..... They last a LONG time and sound great..
I play a sterling and a Jazz..Both fitted with HI Beams, but Im considering putting lowbeams on the jazz after what Ive read on this post..
Did I say I LOVE DR Strings?
I play a sterling and a Jazz..Both fitted with HI Beams, but Im considering putting lowbeams on the jazz after what Ive read on this post..
Did I say I LOVE DR Strings?
Ah, thanks. I'd seen this before somewhere and couldn't remember what site it was on.
Hi Beams are a bright sounding, long lasting string, but there are two problems with them, based on the same thing. They are stainless and thus they are HARD. Hard on your fingers, you can feel the difference between them and nickles (I can anyway), and on your frets, which is worse. I found that only a few hours playing them will start those diamond shaped dents in your frets.
To me nickle strings are fine. I used to find nickle round wounds to be rough on my fingers but after using Hi Beams they feel soft now in comparison.
as people said hi beams are bright but not too bright, they also sound really great with the low mids boosted.
I've used both. I prefer Hi-Beams. They have less tension and are snappy and brighter. I love the feel of Hi-Beams. My Geddy, USA P & Euro Spector are strung with 040-100 Hi-Beams. My Lakland DJ has SS Lo-Riders (040-100) now. I'll put Hi-Beams on it when the LR becomes dull.
Edited to add: The Hi-Beams on my Geddy are about one year old. They still have zing!
Edited to add: The Hi-Beams on my Geddy are about one year old. They still have zing!
I've used Hi-Beams fora long time now, but I also use Sunbeams now and then. I have a set of Sunbeams on my P bass right now. Very nice strings, not dull at all. To me, I'd rather have a set of bright strings overall than duller sounding ones. It's easier to dial back brightness than it is to try and find brightness in a string that doesn't have it. I've tried Lo-Riders but didn't care for the nickel or the stainless version. Apparently they bring out some tones that didn't sound good with the basses I was using them on.
I didn't know this thread started 11 years ago. I hope the OP made a choice.
It may be old, but there is still good information here.
I went from the old rotosounds to sun beams, Hi-beams then lo-riders then back to Hi-beams.
Sun beams I loved but they don't come in as heavy a set as I would want, plus a string on my second set seemed to come un-anchored from the round core and went dead.
Went to Hi Beams, the heavy set (ER50) and was amazed, not as warm as the sun beams but perfect give (due to round core) for the gauge, very 'musical'.
Got curious and went for Lo-riders, unable to get into these. The hex core made them too stiff for the guage I bought, they are the closest to the regular rotosound type string (better though) and I would recommend avoiding a heavy guage.
Went back to Hi-Beams (ER50) and I will be playing these strings as long as they keep making them.
Sun beams I loved but they don't come in as heavy a set as I would want, plus a string on my second set seemed to come un-anchored from the round core and went dead.
Went to Hi Beams, the heavy set (ER50) and was amazed, not as warm as the sun beams but perfect give (due to round core) for the gauge, very 'musical'.
Got curious and went for Lo-riders, unable to get into these. The hex core made them too stiff for the guage I bought, they are the closest to the regular rotosound type string (better though) and I would recommend avoiding a heavy guage.
Went back to Hi-Beams (ER50) and I will be playing these strings as long as they keep making them.
