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Drop A on precision bass
- Thread starter Alec Corallino
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- precision bass strings
Yes, with the proper sized string and setup it should sound great.
I've used Kalium strings up to about a 0.136 and really liked them.
I'm struggling with a precision in D drop C. It's the drop c that's been a problem. I use flat wounds and top 3 strings are great, but the 4th looses a lot of clarity tuning from D down to C.
I put on a set of Rotosound 77s last night of 50-110 flavour. Definitely an improvement over chromes 50-105, and I couldn't imagine using these strings in E...
Will you permanently be using A on the fourth string? I would have a thicker string (maybe .120) for C, except occasionally I like to flick my d-tuner back to D.
I put on a set of Rotosound 77s last night of 50-110 flavour. Definitely an improvement over chromes 50-105, and I couldn't imagine using these strings in E...
Will you permanently be using A on the fourth string? I would have a thicker string (maybe .120) for C, except occasionally I like to flick my d-tuner back to D.
I used to have a P Bass in Drop F with Kalium .195 gauge strings, same bass is currently in C# standard with a .130 set. I'd probably reccomend at least a .150 in Drop A?
I had decent results tuning to G# C# F# B E w/ Rotosounds on a 35" scale 5 string Schecter. Remember this is an ongoing experiment. I tried many different picking attack techniques before I was satisfied. Good luck!
MDBass
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- Nov 7, 2012
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A P bass will work just fine for tuning that low as long as you have heavy enough strings and proper setup/nut.
Enjoy!
MDBass
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- Nov 7, 2012
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- Endorsing Artist: Dingwall-Fender-Bergantino-Dunlop-Tech 21-Darkglass-Nordstrand
Those people have no idea what they're talking about.
Proper string tension, which in this is achievable through considerably heavier gauges, and a proper setup is all that matters.
I used to use a Kallium 0.136 for low C on a Fender jazz. I wouldn't dream of even trying to make it work with a .110.
Kallium has very thorough string tension charts available. Say you know what gauge of string you like for your "G" string.... look up the tension for that gauge of string at that pitch, and then select your low C or low A string gauge to match that tension. It worked out beautifully for me.
Problem for me is I need the string to work in C and D. The difference in tension for that tiniest turn of the machine is more than I thought it would be. Therefore compromise needs to be made. I suppose I need to consider permanent Drop C then I can solve the problem.
.130 is common for low B. I'm not sure if that would be too tight tuned up half a step. I suppose a "Normal" string of that gauge may sit well with the super tight rotos.
You'll be fine, just make sure you file the nut properly (or have a pro do it)
Also, make sure the string can actually fit through the damn bridge hole! I've had problems with certain .135 strings on traditional bent-style bridges because the end is all fat and bunched up, so the part near the ball-end doesn't fit. I know Kaliums have a taper but I'm not sure what's the fattest string that can fit through that bridge.
Also, make sure the string can actually fit through the damn bridge hole! I've had problems with certain .135 strings on traditional bent-style bridges because the end is all fat and bunched up, so the part near the ball-end doesn't fit. I know Kaliums have a taper but I'm not sure what's the fattest string that can fit through that bridge.
I read these post and keep wandering..
Why this obsession with such low tunings on a traditional 34" 4 string p-bass? I get tuning to D-standard which seems to support deeper male vocals and truthfully so many popular tracks include that low D. But much lower i feel that you loose the characteristic punch and growl of at p-bass to cut through the mix..
And do the bass really need the drop tuning. I thought that was more for power riffing guitars in drop D or drop C.
And not a fan of att lot of distortion on bass or A-tuned baritone guitar. Just a small amount of harmonic tube overdrive and compression.
Why this obsession with such low tunings on a traditional 34" 4 string p-bass? I get tuning to D-standard which seems to support deeper male vocals and truthfully so many popular tracks include that low D. But much lower i feel that you loose the characteristic punch and growl of at p-bass to cut through the mix..
And do the bass really need the drop tuning. I thought that was more for power riffing guitars in drop D or drop C.
And not a fan of att lot of distortion on bass or A-tuned baritone guitar. Just a small amount of harmonic tube overdrive and compression.
I mean if you're trying to play an octave down in that sort of setting you have to? 90% of it is just proper amplification and tons of speaker area. Drop F sounded fantastic with two TL606 215's and an SVT.
As far as distortion you definitely need less gain and a pronounced mid range tuned that low. Also it tends to work best with a P or P-J.
devnulljp
Supporting Member
Because not everyone is out there just playing "popular" cover tunes.
I politely disagree. I'd say 90% of it is proper strings and setup. Spaghetti strings soubd like crap no matter what amp you play them through.
Amplification can be whatever you want it to be to reach your tonal goals.
And more gain/distortion also works.
I liked a .158 Kalium for a drop A on a 35" Lull P-J, so you can go heavier if you want. The only thing I've found with super thick strings and split coil type pickups is that it can get a little wooly sounding (inharmonic overtones) somewhere between the 9th and 13th fret. Depends on the bass and string and may or may not be an issue with your amp, pedals, setup, hardware, etc.
Specs people on here go nuts about the fundamental but you get a lot of your sound from the first harmonic, so it's up to you on whether you want to obsess about a cab with drop tuning (and Live are you moving that cab anyway and what's happening on stage with all that low end?). I personally worry more about my midrange than my low lows.
The other option is the Meshuggah route, where you take advantage of the higher string tension and clarity of A standard and don't worry about going down an octave for a drop tuned guitar. I've tried and liked it both ways with a split coil but it's really about your approach to playing and where you want to be in the arrangement.
In sum, spend a little money on different gauge strings and tools (and be prepared to wait a bit with Kalium) and watch some setup videos and learn. Then if you fall in love with Low A, get your nut filed.
Specs people on here go nuts about the fundamental but you get a lot of your sound from the first harmonic, so it's up to you on whether you want to obsess about a cab with drop tuning (and Live are you moving that cab anyway and what's happening on stage with all that low end?). I personally worry more about my midrange than my low lows.
The other option is the Meshuggah route, where you take advantage of the higher string tension and clarity of A standard and don't worry about going down an octave for a drop tuned guitar. I've tried and liked it both ways with a split coil but it's really about your approach to playing and where you want to be in the arrangement.
In sum, spend a little money on different gauge strings and tools (and be prepared to wait a bit with Kalium) and watch some setup videos and learn. Then if you fall in love with Low A, get your nut filed.
I played a 4 string Warwick thumb BO for years with A-E-A-D tuning. Sounded crisp and low. Used .145 Rotosound swing bass 5 string set. I still have like 9 or 10 brand new high G strings from never using them out of the packs.
I use .130 or .132 (can't remember) Chromes tuned to C. Its not very different in feel from standard B
