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Dual impedance handling on cabinets?

I feel like we're sort of 'turning the corner' on this myth on TB...I'm seeing more people recognizing that 4ohm cabs are not the best idea unless you've got a 2ohm capable amp.

A Big 4 ohm cabinet has merit. Really any cabinet that is previously KNOWN to be an effective one cabinet sollution for your situation has merit, as long as that is yoiur line of thinking.

8x10, 4x12, 2x15, are all safe 4 ohm cabs....
The 4x10 and 1x15's are the grey area, where exact situation are highly important, but therefore makes getting an 8ohm cab for resale worth it for most.
the 2x10 and 1x12 cabs like the BRX.2 Neo from Carvin are the head scratchers. In very few situations will 4 ohms be the corect choice.


As an example, I believe Kjung uses a 4 ohm Schroeder 15+L as his ultra portable single cab rig. If he were to consider that as part of a larger rig it would bea problem, but he does not.
 
I learned that the hard way years ago.

When I first started out, 30+ years ago, ALL cabs were 8 ohms -- it was just assumed, so most didn't even have it written on the cab... Then Peavey came out with their line of 2ohm rigs...

All I buy is 8 ohm now... Options are good!

It's really the best of many worlds. If you've got a couple cabs to choose from, then in a situation where a single cab is enough, you can pick which one you want, depending on the gig.

For bigger gigs, you've got both a hint of extra power, but the big benefit of two cabs is more speakers, more speaker area and more sound.

Also, you're less likely to destroy your cabs...too many people try to push their small 4ohm cabs too hard to get the volume they need (I needs more power, I gets me a 4ohm cab!) and there go your speakers. This is especially more of a concern now that everyone pretty much starts with heads over 300w. 20 years ago it was a different story.
 
When I first started out, 30+ years ago, ALL cabs were 8 ohms
My '65 Bassman was 4 ohms, as were almost all 2x cabs then, as few drivers were available in other than 8 ohms. Most 4x were 2 ohms, or if you ran a pair of 2x you had 2 ohms. That was no problem, as all amps then were tube and they had no minimum impedance rating. We used to run Fenders at 1 ohm before we knew better, never had a problem.
 
A Big 4 ohm cabinet has merit. Really any cabinet that is previously KNOWN to be an effective one cabinet sollution for your situation has merit, as long as that is yoiur line of thinking.

8x10, 4x12, 2x15, are all safe 4 ohm cabs....
The 4x10 and 1x15's are the grey area, where exact situation are highly important, but therefore makes getting an 8ohm cab for resale worth it for most.
the 2x10 and 1x12 cabs like the BRX.2 Neo from Carvin are the head scratchers. In very few situations will 4 ohms be the corect choice.


As an example, I believe Kjung uses a 4 ohm Schroeder 15+L as his ultra portable single cab rig. If he were to consider that as part of a larger rig it would bea problem, but he does not.

Yes, but you're talking a 'big' 4ohm cabinet (or cabinets). There are very few working bassists who would consider a 8x10 to be deficient by itself. I think our discussion is talking about standard sized enclosures (4x10, 2x12, 2x10, 1x12) etc.

I too have run a single 15 for many gigs as a stand alone, as an 8ohm cab. If you're sure that this is all you're ever going to need, then of course, go for it. But buying a single 4ohm cab with a 4ohm capable head means that you've got no where to grow without ditching either your head or your cab to start anew.
 
Yes, but you're talking a 'big' 4ohm cabinet (or cabinets). There are very few working bassists who would consider a 8x10 to be deficient by itself. I think our discussion is talking about standard sized enclosures (4x10, 2x12, 2x10, 1x12) etc.

I too have run a single 15 for many gigs as a stand alone, as an 8ohm cab. If you're sure that this is all you're ever going to need, then of course, go for it. But buying a single 4ohm cab with a 4ohm capable head means that you've got no where to grow without ditching either your head or your cab to start anew.

I was mostly agreeing with you, simply adding that there are circumstances where people buy medium sized 4 ohm cabinets. Another example would be a 4 ohm NeoX 2x12 witha walkabout, soeone with a larger rig as well...

My rambling point is simply to use a medium sized 4 ohm cabinet as almost a last resort, or only in a situation when you KNOW it is EXACTLY what you want, as resale is harder.

I can't really come up with a situation where a 4 ohm 2x10 or 1 x 12 is a wise decision. BUt there I go again, I see a poiint for a purpose built machine like the AudioKinesis Thunderchild, the "subway traveller" monster.

If you aren't absolutely positively sure you need a 4 ohm cab, you probably don't. If your medium cabinet isn't quite making it at 8 ohms, it probably won't at 4, but if you get another identical cab you should be fine. There is no replacement for displacement, but you can't carry an 8x10 yourself on a subway.
 
I have two 210/6 cabs that I built. I have a Carvin BX1200 that goes down to 2 ohms. But I also bi-amp with it.

I wired in a switch to go from 8 ohms to 2 ohms on one 210/6 cab only. When I play smaller clubs I use my one 210/6 as a 2 ohm cab. Why? It seems to sound better to my ears when I push it (think Acme) as it is an inefficient cab and just sounds better with more watts available.

When I play a larger gig, I realize I'll get more volume with more speakers rather than more watts and because I bi-amp into the 6" mids drivers I need each side of my amp to be dedicated to lows and highs. That's when I bring the other 8 ohm 210/6 cab and switch my "dual impedence" cab from 2 ohms (when used singly) to 8 ohms to be able to use both cabs together. I get more volume using the two 8 ohm 210/6's, but I prefer the tone of my single 210/6 at 2 ohms. There is a difference in tone at gig volume.

Certainly not a need for anyone else, but I find the switch to be useful for my needs. As I mentioned I need both sides of my head to bi-amp, but if I ever put in an internal crossover into both of my 210/6 cabs, I won't have the need for the switch as I can then bridge my Carvin and just run both cabs full out (as 8 ohm cabs) with more power.