I'd like to be able to clean my vintage Fender, and it's finished in nitro (probably, it's a refinished bass). Is it safe to use the standard Dunlop Formula 65 Guitar Polish & Cleaner on it? Or do I have to use something else?
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
Dunlop Guitar Polish vs. nitro finish?
- Thread starter BassAgent
- Start date
Dunlop 65 is ok to use on nitro but Gibson or Virtuoso polish work much better IMO especially on necks where the nitro feels sticky.
From the Dunlop website:
Q: Is the Formula 65 okay to use on a nitro finish?
A: Yes, Formula 65 polish is ok to use on a nitro finish. I would not use it if there are cracks, weather checking, or dings in the finish. I would not use it on an old and thin finish either. Rubbing on a thin and old nitro finish with any liquid polish and a cloth can take off color.
From the Dunlop website:
Q: Is the Formula 65 okay to use on a nitro finish?
A: Yes, Formula 65 polish is ok to use on a nitro finish. I would not use it if there are cracks, weather checking, or dings in the finish. I would not use it on an old and thin finish either. Rubbing on a thin and old nitro finish with any liquid polish and a cloth can take off color.
Dunlop 65 is a good cleaner but I wouldn't use it on an old Nitro finish.
Check out Redland Music Products. They have a line of cleaners, waxes and lemon oils that were specifically formulated for vintage finishes. No silicone, solvent, detergents.
Try the lemon oil to breakup the grime. Then use the cleaner to wipe it away.
Redland Music Products
Check out Redland Music Products. They have a line of cleaners, waxes and lemon oils that were specifically formulated for vintage finishes. No silicone, solvent, detergents.
Try the lemon oil to breakup the grime. Then use the cleaner to wipe it away.
Redland Music Products
Unfortunately "lemon oil" is not really lemon oil; often times. Mostly it's mineral oil and lemon scent.
Obviously this is only my opinion and YMMV. I would NOT use an unknown cleaner on a nitrocellulose finish. Unless I had the MSDS in front of me and KNEW what was in a cleaner, if I had something of value, I would be hesitant. NC Lacquer is a very easily damaged finish. Petroleum distillates can creep under the finish and dislodge it, they can also begin a process of marginalizing the hardness of the NC lacquer (making it gummy), etc.
If this is a true vintage instrument, depending upon the degree of dirt I would consider a minimal amount of very mild warm soapy water wiped off immediately or leaving it alone (wiped with a clean cloth after use).
Obviously this is only my opinion and YMMV. I would NOT use an unknown cleaner on a nitrocellulose finish. Unless I had the MSDS in front of me and KNEW what was in a cleaner, if I had something of value, I would be hesitant. NC Lacquer is a very easily damaged finish. Petroleum distillates can creep under the finish and dislodge it, they can also begin a process of marginalizing the hardness of the NC lacquer (making it gummy), etc.
If this is a true vintage instrument, depending upon the degree of dirt I would consider a minimal amount of very mild warm soapy water wiped off immediately or leaving it alone (wiped with a clean cloth after use).
John's right. A lot of lemon oils are not lemon oil at all. The Redland product is pure lemon oil without the citric acid. No lemon smell at all.
Regardless of the sales pitch of any product, be very careful when using anything on a vintage instrument. While you may know the type of finish, it is impossible to know the environmental conditions the guitar has seen during its lifetime. Even mild soapy water can cause damage.
Always test on a very inconspicuous area.
Regardless of the sales pitch of any product, be very careful when using anything on a vintage instrument. While you may know the type of finish, it is impossible to know the environmental conditions the guitar has seen during its lifetime. Even mild soapy water can cause damage.
Always test on a very inconspicuous area.
The reason Dunlop and other manufacturer's put the caveat in their instructions is because they are afraid of lawsuits. Any polish applied to a cracked finish will leave residue in the cracks. If the cracks are deep, the solvent in the polish will work seep under the finish.
Lemon oil found in the hardware store is mineral oil with lemon scent. True lemon oil is expensive and hard to find.
It is wise to consult the MSDS. It is smarter to check it before purchase.
Oils are lubricants. Sometimes they are used as finishes. They are not cleaners. Unless the oil is a proprietary formulation that contains a detergent it will not clean anything. It might make something shiny but it won't make it clean.
a little naphtha mixed on a rag with a little water can be a good cleaner, as each will dissolve what the other won't and both evaporate completely.
there's still a risk of either one smudging or hazing already-softened nitro finish.
there's still a risk of either one smudging or hazing already-softened nitro finish.
Soft cloth, your breath for a little moisture, and some elbow grease. Don't take risks with a NC finish. The very properties that make it great for the resonance of the instrument make it fragile and difficult to polish to a high gloss. It's not really SUPPOSED to have a high gloss. Enjoy the vintage look.
It really helps if your hands are clean when you play. I am often stunned when guys in my band with vintage instruments eat pizza or greasy bar snacks and then just go play without hitting the men's room first to wash hands thoroughly.
It really helps if your hands are clean when you play. I am often stunned when guys in my band with vintage instruments eat pizza or greasy bar snacks and then just go play without hitting the men's room first to wash hands thoroughly.
