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Durability danish oil finish

C

cigi

Aug 22, 2006
538
16
#1
Hey,

I've been working on finishing a bass body for some time. After making a few mistakes (as discussed in former threads). It's starting to look good. It's an ash body and yesterday I've put the 14th coat of rustins danish oil on it. It looks very good. You can still see the pores but it is well finished and has a nice satin look.

Now I was wondering. If I leave it like this, will I have to redo the finish after a few years? I've read that you need to redo oil finishes. But these 14 coats of danish oil seem a rather durable finish. And I believe the danish oil isn't just an oil finish. It is more an oil based varnish, right?

Thanks,

Cigi
 
#2
Yes Danish oil is oil & a varnish together.
I have done it 1 good thing about it if you get a scratch etc you can just give it another coat & its good as new. Bad thing it scratch dints etc easily , so I use Miniwax wipe on varnish ( 3 coats ) .
I have sold the bass now.
Also to bring up danish oil you can leave it a week & give it a really good hand buff with just a rag.
Also it responds well with guitar polish Crubian? ( yellow ) polish.
 
#3
All varnishes are oils and most oils will varnish.

I prefer to use an oil to enrich the color of the wood and a top coat to seal. Urethanes are good top coats but they will impart even more amber. Polyesters are good for keeping the whites as are lacquers.
 
#4
robert43 said:
Yes Danish oil is oil & a varnish together.
I have done it 1 good thing about it if you get a scratch etc you can just give it another coat & its good as new. Bad thing it scratch dints etc easily , so I use Miniwax wipe on varnish ( 3 coats ) .
I have sold the bass now.
Also to bring up danish oil you can leave it a week & give it a really good hand buff with just a rag.
Also it responds well with guitar polish Crubian? ( yellow ) polish.
Click to expand...

A good wax to use is one containing carnauba wax as part of the blend. Carnauba is quite hard. It's usually blended with softer beeswax and parrafin wax. There are a number of good brands. They're sold as furniture paste wax. Don't use floor paste wax. It's way too hard to rub out to a shine by hand. It's made for machine buffing.

Don't use liquid furniture waxes or any of the aerosol spray products.

Neutral colour Kiwi brand shoe polish makes a pretty good furniture wax. It's a little softer than furniture waxes but it polishes easily.

Waxes can be removed with alcohol or paint thinner, both of which are safe to use on an oil/varnish finish that has properly cured.
 
#8
ok so I've put a coat of danish oil in the neck pocket and control and pickup cavities.

Still have one question: There are a lot of dust particels on the body form finishing it. Is it a good idea to sand them of with 1000 grit sandingpaper (finest grit I could find). Wil the finish get it's satin shine back after buffing the wax? Because the sanding makes it a little matte.
 

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