Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
EBMM StingRay Special Club
- Thread starter MultiScaleMale
- Start date
That looks PERFECT! With the roasted neck shading, the aged pearlized Pick guard blends ideally. Nicely done. Are those stock items or custom order? How long did it take to get it after your ordered?
I really want to try an HH version. But I am not sure I would use the neck PU or the other positions. If I did however, the Aqua Blue Sparkle is in my top 2 or 3.
Why did you get another? Was there an issue and this is a replacement?
I also prefer the black hardware and ebony FB's. But I played a Maple FB SR Special recently and I loved it too. I still love the bold black hardware and dark fingerboard.
lt was a standard order from Pickguard Planet. Just follow the instructions on their website. I'm in Australia, so it was a week or so in transit but otherwise very quick delivery - just a few weeks.
We season and build all of our necks exactly the same way. Doesn't matter which model of guitar or bass. Wood is organic and will move ... the stainless frets will not. We are coming out of winter now... When it gets cold in 9 months this will pop up again...
I’m curious, how many SRS owners also use an outboard preamp/DI pedal between their bass and amp and what y’all are using? Has the SRS changed that? Thanks!
Yes and no. I use an Eden WTDI as a DI to record, and generally with the controls set to keep the tone flat/neutral so the characteristics of the instrument are unchanged. Only occasionally will I use the WTDI on a gig as a tone sculpting "effect". The 18v from my SRS means I have to tweak the gain and master to ensure no net volume boost.
Back when I was managing a video production facility, we had trouble with equipment every spring, and sometimes fall. Our engineer noted it happens to all his customers, and that it was a change of seasons thing. So even non-organic electronics are subject to seasonal issues.
I used to use a Aguilar TH on my old Ray, but stopped using it with my Special (same as with my old Modulus FB4 and 79 Sabre). I used a SansAmp BD sometime with the blend near zero and the eq flat, just for the speaker sim. Bearing in mind I mostly play on headphones so used it before I went into the desk. I have a Helix Stomp now so just use the amp/cab sim.
When I have played out, loud and proud, there was no need for a pedal, which was never the case with my old Rays.
Not sure that answers your question?!
Yes I use the Sansamp Programmable Bass Driver DI in between my MB combo and SRS. I also use a MXR compressor pedal in front of the Sansamp. I had to change the compressor input setting and still pretty much fiddle with it before every show. It seems the SRS triggers it differently than all my other basses. I try to set the compressor where it only comes on in the event I spike the signal with my thumb or something a little to hard but I find it hard to get the input setting right the first time. On the DI part I use the Mark Bass. I really like the MB DI with it’s own volume control to the house. Honestly though, the MB tone is so good with SRS that I actually have considered taking the SansAmp off and just run only with the compressor.
Just some more info..... I emailed Chandler and they sent me this:
I believe your pattern is PG 35024
PG 35024: Stingray Bass HH
2 hum & 9 screws
https://www.pickguardplanet.com/colors/
I sold my jazz bass and bought a used EB HH Stingray, its output was almost lower than a passive p bass.
Question one:
When i removed the cover to look inside the active circuit, i saw this loose wire in the photo, its tip was in one of the screw holes, but it wasnt connected anywhere? Can anyone tell me whats this wire for? Is it normal that its disconnected and loose like that? And is it normal to have an output like a passive bass?
Question two:
Also the neck humbucker is significantly have lower output, when i put the switch all the way down to bridge and touch to the poles of neck humbucker with a metal tool, there is still current on the neck humbucker. Isnt it supposed to cut the current at neck magnets when its switched to the bridge humbucker all the way down?
I put a brand new battery by the way.
If something wrong i will bring it to the shop and ask for my money back. I can take additional photos if its needed. by the way.
Question one:
When i removed the cover to look inside the active circuit, i saw this loose wire in the photo, its tip was in one of the screw holes, but it wasnt connected anywhere? Can anyone tell me whats this wire for? Is it normal that its disconnected and loose like that? And is it normal to have an output like a passive bass?
Question two:
Also the neck humbucker is significantly have lower output, when i put the switch all the way down to bridge and touch to the poles of neck humbucker with a metal tool, there is still current on the neck humbucker. Isnt it supposed to cut the current at neck magnets when its switched to the bridge humbucker all the way down?
I put a brand new battery by the way.
If something wrong i will bring it to the shop and ask for my money back. I can take additional photos if its needed. by the way.
No issue at all with the previous one, I had to travel for work for 7 months or so and sold all my gear before leaving. Wasn’t sure if I’d still be interested in bass when I came back, and sure enough I was, so I’m back at it. It’s kind of a dilemma H vs HH for sure, I’ve never played one with a series switch before and I’ve heard cool things about that. I just enjoy the tones from the HH configuration so much. I think there might be an element of laziness on my part in that I terribly underutilize the preamp. I pretty much just use the treble like a tone knob and do pickup switching. I’m sure an H configuration can get just as many sounds with hand position and lots of preamp manipulation but just haven’t found myself being that way.
I dont know really, i just bought the bass today as used, the shopkeeper couldnt tell me the exact production date. I posted on Ernie Ball forum database section and waiting for the answer from them. Also asked the same question at the Ernie Ball Bass forum just incase they might have an idea. If something wrong i will ask for repair or more likely i will return it and take my money back.
Does it have 22 frets or 21 frets? If it has 22 frets... it's a special.
Post a pic of the bridge or tuner gear-side. A Special bridge will be missing the bolts on either side of the saddles. A non-Special StingRay will have the bolts. And a Classic will feature mutes. As for the tuners, non-Specials will have four screws holding each to the headstock.
If it’s a 4-string, which it probably is, this is an easy check. But the 5-string StingRays previously had 22 frets.
