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EBS GORM ET210 PROBLEM

M

menelaos

Feb 29, 2008
4
0
#1
Hi guys,

I hope you could help me.

I have problem with my new EBS gorm 210.
I play with a fender Stu ham bass on it.

In some ocassions the volume of the amp is going mute suddenly and doesnt play...also it has much hiss.

I checked bass battery, i clean the potentiometers...all did it properly...

Is it the amp or the bass??

it doesnt do it all the time....

I am just so despair ,of thinking to sell my new amp and buy the new redhead SWR....

What you think??

thanks a lot
for your help.
 
#3
Dear anderbass,

thanks a lot for your concern.

1. I haqve used more than 5 or more different cables.
2. I played my fender bass on an old peavey TNT160 and works perfectly even if this amp is more than 10 years old.
3. When the problems happened last time.... I immediatelly plug out my bass and plug in my brothe's guitar with his cable in and the problem persists event to him!

NOTE: WHAT I HAVE FOUND lately is that when the problem appears i press in and out a couple of times the BI-Amp button and the problem disappears!!!!!!!! After awhile playing the problem appears again!!!

Do you have any other idea about that???

I REALLY appreciate your answer cause the greek distributor cannot find the solution...THe EBS i have sent to these guys 3-4 emails and the just IGNORE ME!!!!

THANKS MATE! WAIT FOR YOUR REPLY!
 
#4
I have a similar issue with my EBS Gorm 300.

It will fade, sometimes just o a very low volume, sometimes to full mute.

Try turning the volume down, and run gain up and down, I'm thinking it's the gain pot is at fault with mine, as I do this, and the amp may pop (hence volume down) and then it's back to life, I'm sure it's nothing major! ( Loose wire, or gain pot etc, maybe even a switch ). As for the hiss? Mine has none so I can't help you! The hiss could be from your bass??
 
#5
I had a similar issue with my Drome that I trouble-shot, with the excellent advice of Keith of the Amp Lab in Campbell, CA, to be due to little-used switching jacks on the back of the amp getting dirty/corroded over time. I posted this on a Drome-related thread here on TB, and apparently the problem wasn't unique to me or the Drome.

A "serious" cleaning involves getting your hands on some *good*, electronics-safe contact cleaner, e.g. DeoxIt, and a can of compressed clean dry air. First, blast any ambient dust out of the jacks with compressed air. Then spray the DeoxIt into all jacks that have switching functions, like headphone outputs and effects loop returns. Let it work for a little while, as recommended on the can, then repeatedly insert and remove a *clean* 1/4" cable plug, maybe 10-20 times. There are those who recommend covering the jack in cloth to make it clean better, but I worried about deforming the jacks with the thickness of cloth, and haven't done that myself. I followed with another blast of compressed air into the sockets.

The "poor man's" quick and dirty version of this procedure would be to simply ream all the switching connectors by plugging/unplugging a clean cord a whole bunch of times. You probably won't get all the oxidation off this way, but it might make enough of a difference to know if you're on the right track with this.

Good luck. I remember being panic stricken when my beloved Drome started cutting out during practice. Bless Keith Reinegger for telling me to try the cleaning trick over the phone, when he could hit me for an hour of bench time in the shop.
 
#6
Sid Fang said:
I had a similar issue with my Drome that I trouble-shot, with the excellent advice of Keith of the Amp Lab in Campbell, CA, to be due to little-used switching jacks on the back of the amp getting dirty/corroded over time. I posted this on a Drome-related thread here on TB, and apparently the problem wasn't unique to me or the Drome.

A "serious" cleaning involves getting your hands on some *good*, electronics-safe contact cleaner, e.g. DeoxIt, and a can of compressed clean dry air. First, blast any ambient dust out of the jacks with compressed air. Then spray the DeoxIt into all jacks that have switching functions, like headphone outputs and effects loop returns. Let it work for a little while, as recommended on the can, then repeatedly insert and remove a *clean* 1/4" cable plug, maybe 10-20 times. There are those who recommend covering the jack in cloth to make it clean better, but I worried about deforming the jacks with the thickness of cloth, and haven't done that myself. I followed with another blast of compressed air into the sockets.

The "poor man's" quick and dirty version of this procedure would be to simply ream all the switching connectors by plugging/unplugging a clean cord a whole bunch of times. You probably won't get all the oxidation off this way, but it might make enough of a difference to know if you're on the right track with this.

Good luck. I remember being panic stricken when my beloved Drome started cutting out during practice. Bless Keith Reinegger for telling me to try the cleaning trick over the phone, when he could hit me for an hour of bench time in the shop.
Click to expand...
Cheers for that! :)
 
#7
Addendum: From the comment about the bi-amp switch, I could understand having some suspicion about that switch being dirty itself, though that would be more surprising than the switching jacks - unlike the jacks, switches are generally enclosed and protected from condensation and dust. If you're comfortable pulling the amp section from the cabinet, you could try spraying some air and some DeoxIt into the swtich assembly and cycling the switch repeatedly while the cleaner is still liquid, but I'd try the jacks first, just the same.
 

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