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After years of experimenting with various pins on carved, hybrid and plywood basses I've settled on traditional steel endpins. The Ulsa 6425 which comes with the 5/8" metal tube was the most viable alternative; substituting a maple, walnut, oak dowel, or hickory drumstick. For a couple of years I used turned pins using a cello taper into a matching tapered housing. I have several lengths depending on the situation. Consistently, any of those options yielded a louder, more resonant tone at the expense of low end. The steel pin just has more clarity and a punchier, more extended low end.Now repeat that experiment on twenty basses and it might tell you something!
Agreed, it is comparable. And, using a similar approach, there I found, for that instrument, lighter = better.This is a bit like the bridge adjuster discussion IMHO.
The longer I do this work, the more I begin to believe that there is just so much that we don't know or possibly understand. There are rules, dogma, tendencies, unintended consequences, variables beyond our control and just plain magic.
I respectfully yet fundamentally disagree with this criticism. I am comparing complete pin A with complete pin B, in exactly the way they are used (& at identical lengths). My 342 word PDF is not an answer to the question 'What is the best endpin; what is the best endpin material; what is the best tip; and what is the best length?', and I never claimed it was that. As stated, I just made the comparison to quantify the acoustic consequences of going from pin A to pin B, so to objectively quantify a weak subjective perception. You seem read more in the PDF than what is actually written. If I wanted to answer the much wider question, then I would need a much wider data set (and the 20 you mentioned earlier might not suffice either), addressing all the degrees of freedom. But I'm not addressing that here; I'm not trying to solve world hunger here either.It also ignores endpin length and its material, and the different rubber tip.
The conclusion I draw is quite carefully worded: "In this instrument, a minor increase in the low end is indicated as the result of the lighter end-pin.". Minor differences --> 'minor increase'; quite possibly not statistically significant --> 'indicated' (as opposed to a firm 'is'). Now I fully accept that with these data you may also conclude that 'Within the statistical variation no significant difference is found.', and I admit that I have, to some extent, succumbed to framing. My subjective impression was 'FA difference.. Well, maybe a wee bit in the low', so I liked to see that back in the data. (And also others are selling alternative endpins because of alleged improvements.) What alternative conclusion would you draw?And your graph shows such tiny differences, I'm surprised you can think you can even draw a conclusion
Where did I say that, regarding the end-pin? I didn't. Thinking error. I'm open to criticism on what I say, not on what you think I say."lighter=better" for your own bass!
Well, indeed I do think that if someone buys & installs a new endpin, this is a suitable way to objectively test the acoustic impact thereof. And that is why I shared it (not expecting the Spanish Inquisition to show up). No, it is indeed not the solution to world hunger.objective experiment
Yes it does. I suggested to clamp the weights at the location of the adjusters, so not for instance at the crest. If you mean the height setting of the adjusters, you are correct, for each height setting you would need another fixed bridge. It only assess the impact of the weight gain due to the adjusters, which I think is the most important aspect, at a fixed given string height.experiment to assess the effect of different adjusters doesn't take into effect of the position of the adjuster
Agreed. So what you do is change 1 aspect while leaving all others unchanged, and assess the impact of that change as best & objective as you can. That's how you learn. One step at the time, and the step is tailored to what you want to know. By saying it's all so complicated & linked & voodoo, so it's impossible to understand, you won't make progress.Remember, everything matters
Again, I respectfully disagree. In a complicated situation, take 1 step at the time, calculate (estimate) where you are, and learn as objectively as you can. That is how you get to master the situation, or at least make progress. Voodoo does not necessarily help.a fools errand, IMO
Is aligned with my experience.it just seems like aluminum would have less of a muting effect than brass
Again, this sounds eminently sensible to me. Also, placing heavy adjusters below a high-mounted PU may help PU output & character.I switched the adjusters to brass and the tone got darker and the low end became more solid. The bass may have lost some volume but I prefer the change.
Hear hear.So, remain curious with open ears.
If you feel that's important, please elaborate, from your own experience. Again, outwith my objectives.And you forgot psychoacoustics!!
Ah well, the one that came with the thing is eminently suitable for hand-to-hand combat, but I found the other one in a box, so I figured: try that...trying out a number of different endpins, then by all means do it
Forgot that. Personally I like the smell of teak.blue
Indeed. If it was that easy...sound like a 250 year old Italian bass
Nah, it's not that bad, with enough tlc. And value-for-money-wise the thing scores pretty good, in my opinion. Just some fun.will still sound like junk