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Efficient 'n cheap 210 DIY design?
- Thread starter eukatheude
- Start date
Thanks for the tip! That's what I was looking for. Had no idea Faital was italian.
It seems they are more costly here, at least on Ebay. € = $, it seems.
Okay, bigger box = better with this driver:
100l seems to be the sweet spot to get a few hz deeper.
How do you plan on venting the box? Rectangular shelf, or round vents?
You tell me! What are the advantages? I read on greenboy's site that the port can be tweaked in order to have the cab go lower. So I'd like that, I guess.
The box it is in now has a shelf.
Seems nice but i can find none either on ebay nor on mercatino musicale and subito.it... I'm afraid that cab is US only.
http://billfitzmaurice.info/Simplexx.html
I have no experience, but BFM's simplexx series was specifically designed for the novice cab builder, and I hear his instructions are absolutely top notch. There is a 210 Simplexx cab.
I have no experience, but BFM's simplexx series was specifically designed for the novice cab builder, and I hear his instructions are absolutely top notch. There is a 210 Simplexx cab.
A tweeter is just about useless in a 2x10. If you are going for put a crossover plus driver in there make it a mid-range.
Why useless? I excluded the midrange driver because of size and cost, but I wouldn't mind to have my mind changed about that, mind you.
Yeppers!
Awesome deal here (at a first glance at least - not sure if they want your firstborn in exchange for shipping):
Link Removed
Alas, Carvin is not a budget brand this side of the Atlantic. It's been a while since I looked, but the best deal I could find is from Germany, 279 €:
Link Removed
Not on their website, but worth enquiring, Carvin Netherlands might get one and price it decently (the 115 is):
www.carvin.nl/amplifiersbassmicrobasscombos.htm
4 or 16ohm 10's, to end up with an 8ohm 210, that are both good and affordable are kinda hard to find. Those Faitals I mentioned are about $53 each in the US. They're also one of the only ones I've been able to find here that weren't either really cheap stuff with unknown or incomplete specs, or very expensive stuff. With 8ohm 10's, giving you 4 or 16ohm 210 cabs, there are a whole lot more choices the fall in the "good and affordable" category.
If need be, I suppose someone could buy them for you in the US and then mail them to you as a personal gift?
If need be, I suppose someone could buy them for you in the US and then mail them to you as a personal gift?
I think it'd be ok to use a tweeter in a vertical woofer design like this. The off-axis response won't be anywhere near as bad as it is when people just stick a tweeter in a square 410.
Yep I checked. Didn't notice you're from italy.
Saw that offer, there is also one on ebay for 35+5 shipping. That'd be nice.
I see. With my current amp I'd have no use for 4 ohm cabs, and I guess 16 ohms would not use the amp well.
I however found one for 35+5€. Seems like the driver has been chosen then. I'll try my hand at building a cab for the 15'' I already have so I'll see if it's actually feasible for me to do this right.
No need, but thanks.
Keep in mind I'd also use them as a regular 410, depending on venue.
It doesn't matter, as long as the port is big enough. Shelf is a bit harder to build, but looks nicer IMO. Round ports are easier since you can buy them off-the-shelf and just stick them in a hole.
I suggest round ports for you if you're building this in an appartement. Just tell me the inner diameter of the stuff you can get (around 8-10cm for two pipes would be ok) and I'll calculate the length for you. You'll have to cut them to the correct length but that is easy.
OP. This is the driver recommended in the thread that I provided a link for in the 2nd post of this thread. The 10FE200-4 has an unusually smooth and extended frequency response. The high end is well maintained to about 5.5kHz at 45 degrees off-axis. The HF rolloff is relatively smooth, so the driver can be operated with no low pass filter and fairly easily crossed over to a tweeter (for good slap tone). Many (most?) players would find a tweeter unnecessary.
How harder? Cutting a hole here is going to be much harder than clamping together straight-cut wood.
By the way, apparently RCF recommends around 125l. I was thinking 70cm high, 50cm wide and 35cm deep. Should those dimensions include the port?
Yep I pretty much chose that driver for my project. First I want to try building a 115 with the driver I already have though, to see if I'm actually able to.
That IS pretty good!
Then a shelf might be easier for you. You just have to make the front baffle a bit smaller so it doesn't extend all the way down, add a board below it, and voila: shelf! You should add one or two port dividers for stability, though.
Kinda like this one (apologies to the TBer I stole the pic from):
You have to cut holes anyway, at least for the speaker and the connectors.
Internal dimensions don't include the port. You have to substract about two litres for the driver and bracing, too. It's no problem if you end up with a cab that's one or two litres bigger or smaller than intended, though.
You can go with 70x50x35 internal without the port below it. Volume loss by speaker and bracing should just about be canceled out by the space you gain by the space behind the shelf. Does this make any sense?
If I calculate the vent with 50cm (box width) x 6cm (port height), box size 125l and a tuning of 58hz, I get a vent length of 7cm. That is short. Can one of the other builders here run this through their simulation program, just to be sure?
I see. I realise I need a hole at least for the driver, but that's two circular holes less i have to worry about if i go with the shelf port way.
As for the jack, I was thinking of installing a back panel anyway.
By the way, on the postponed 210 design: is it possible to wire them up in a way that lets me choose between wiring them together in series or in parallel? That way in the future i can add a 3rd or 4th cab.
As for the jack, I was thinking of installing a back panel anyway.
Not really! Can you elucidate?
By the way, on the postponed 210 design: is it possible to wire them up in a way that lets me choose between wiring them together in series or in parallel? That way in the future i can add a 3rd or 4th cab.
I think it's easier to draw the cab for you. Don't know if I'll have time for it today.
It is:
http://enginerdamps.blogspot.de/2009/06/parallel-series-switch-for-extenstion.html
Thanks! I really appreciate your help.
As for the wiring: aside from this way, I mean a way to wire the two cabs in series, not the speakers in one cab (though that's useful too). So if my amp goes down to 4 Ohm, I can wire two 8 ohm cabs in series to one output and two (or even one) more cabs in series to the other, parallel output. So I'd have a 16 ohm load on parallel outputs = 8 ohm. Not really ideal since I'd have to push an 810 with 160W rather than 300, but I suppose it'll make enough noise anyway.
For this I'd be probably better off using 8 ohm speaker. Using the switch you linked and being able to wire them in series with each other, I'd be able to play with a single 4 ohm cab. Or two 4 ohm cabs in series, put parallel to other two 4 ohm cabs in series = 4 ohm total load.
Not ideal for having only two cabs though.
