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Efficient 'n cheap 210 DIY design?

#41
eukatheude said:
Thanks! I really appreciate your help.
As for the wiring: aside from this way, I mean a way to wire the two cabs in series, not the speakers in one cab (though that's useful too). So if my amp goes down to 4 Ohm, I can wire two 8 ohm cabs in series to one output and two (or even one) more cabs in series to the other, parallel output. So I'd have a 16 ohm load on parallel outputs = 8 ohm. Not really ideal since I'd have to push an 810 with 160W rather than 300, but I suppose it'll make enough noise anyway.

For this I'd be probably better off using 8 ohm speaker. Using the switch you linked and being able to wire them in series with each other, I'd be able to play with a single 4 ohm cab. Or two 4 ohm cabs in series, put parallel to other two 4 ohm cabs in series = 4 ohm total load.
Not ideal for having only two cabs though.
Click to expand...


You can make up a series cable, or make a series patch box to run regular speaker cables through.

If you're wanting to use 8ohm drivers, note that the 8ohm version of that model of Faital spec's quite differently than the 4ohm version and is better suited to sealed boxes. In a 1 cu.ft. sealed box, it starts rolling off around 70hz and is -10db around 50hz. That's a nice, classic sealed cab bottom end profile for 4-string bass. You might want a little more "oomph" down there for 5-string.....or not. Matter of taste there.
 
#42
oerk said:
Not sure I understand what you're asking.

What kind of wood and what thickness will you be using for the 115? Important, so I can provide you the right measurements.
Click to expand...

Connecting a 210 in series with another 210, in parallel with another couple of 210 connected the same way.

No idea. It would probably be pine since that's easily available and cheap. I also think it's all they sell in the aforementioned DIY store. Don't know about thickness, what are the tradeoffs?

will33 said:
You can make up a series cable, or make a series patch box to run regular speaker cables through.

If you're wanting to use 8ohm drivers, note that the 8ohm version of that model of Faital spec's quite differently than the 4ohm version and is better suited to sealed boxes. In a 1 cu.ft. sealed box, it starts rolling off around 70hz and is -10db around 50hz. That's a nice, classic sealed cab bottom end profile for 4-string bass. You might want a little more "oomph" down there for 5-string.....or not. Matter of taste there.
Click to expand...

I definitely want more oomph for the 5 string. So I'm sticking with the 4 ohm version I guess.
I tried putting its parameters on WinISD but got a very weird response curve if I set a box size lower than the 500l that came up spontaneuosly... Maybe I entered them wrong?
 
#43
Duke LeJeune started a great thread on a DIY 110 kit. There is a 210 cab they sell that I think is 2x the volume so you could possibly just double up the drivers and get an inexpensive 210 with no wood work to be done. Aside from jack plates etc.

Invalid Link Removed

Do a search for DIY 110 coffeehouse. I think people have come to calling it the TB110. TalkBass 110.
 
#44
Scottkarch said:
Duke LeJeune started a great thread on a DIY 110 kit. There is a 210 cab they sell that I think is 2x the volume so you could possibly just double up the drivers and get an inexpensive 210 with no wood work to be done. Aside from jack plates etc.

Invalid Link Removed

Do a search for DIY 110 coffeehouse. I think people have come to calling it the TB110. TalkBass 110.
Click to expand...

Nah, not sure if the drivers would be a good fit on the 210. Plus shipping would be an arm and a leg. :D
 
#45
Scottkarch said:
Duke LeJeune started a great thread on a DIY 110 kit. There is a 210 cab they sell that I think is 2x the volume so you could possibly just double up the drivers and get an inexpensive 210 with no wood work to be done. Aside from jack plates etc.

Invalid Link Removed

Do a search for DIY 110 coffeehouse. I think people have come to calling it the TB110. TalkBass 110.
Click to expand...

My son and I built a TB 110 for his home practice cab.
That little thing kicks butt!
 
#46
eukatheude said:
No idea. It would probably be pine since that's easily available and cheap. I also think it's all they sell in the aforementioned DIY store. Don't know about thickness, what are the tradeoffs?
Click to expand...

Pine is fine, as long as it's comparable to the Kiefernholz I know. Are you talking about plywood, or MPX?

Plywood and MPX are usually offerred in 10, 12, 15, 18 etc. mm around here, whereas particle board and MDF are usually in 12, 16, 19 mm, IIRC. So I need to know the exact thickness.

You can work with 10 or 12mm material, but you'd have to do a more bracing (not as much as I did, though). 15mm and up you can get away with less bracing.

eukatheude said:
I tried putting its parameters on WinISD but got a very weird response curve if I set a box size lower than the 500l that came up spontaneuosly... Maybe I entered them wrong?
Click to expand...

Did you alter the tuning frequency as well? Don't rely on WinISDs suggestions, you have to play with the parameters yourself.
 
#47
oerk said:
Pine is fine, as long as it's comparable to the Kiefernholz I know. Are you talking about plywood, or MPX?

Plywood and MPX are usually offerred in 10, 12, 15, 18 etc. mm around here, whereas particle board and MDF are usually in 12, 16, 19 mm, IIRC. So I need to know the exact thickness.

You can work with 10 or 12mm material, but you'd have to do a more bracing (not as much as I did, though). 15mm and up you can get away with less bracing.
Click to expand...

Seems just like plain pine. But I think they also sell plywood. I suppose that's recommended, being more solid?
Aside from weight and bracing are there any tradeoffs in deciding the thickness? I don't mind having to brace it well.

Did you alter the tuning frequency as well? Don't rely on WinISDs suggestions, you have to play with the parameters yourself.
Click to expand...

Tried but it still has a weird shape. I will post screens to clarificate.
 
#48
eukatheude said:
Seems just like plain pine. But I think they also sell plywood. I suppose that's recommended, being more solid?
Aside from weight and bracing are there any tradeoffs in deciding the thickness? I don't mind having to brace it well..
Click to expand...

Don't use massive wood, it will warp over time. Some kind of layered wood would be preferable, i.e. plywood or MPX.

No, weight is the most important factor in deciding thickness. If in doubt, build with thicker wood.
 
#49
oerk said:
Don't use massive wood, it will warp over time. Some kind of layered wood would be preferable, i.e. plywood or MPX.

No, weight is the most important factor in deciding thickness. If in doubt, build with thicker wood.
Click to expand...

I have to check what they offer. Maybe this weekend I can make a quick trip there.
Is there a thickness you'd suggest? I'd like the cab to be lightweight but I don't need it to be a feather... Any improvement over the current one will be good enough. And the current one is ridiculous, I haven't checked on a scale but I'd say between 50/60 kg...
How many clamps do you think I'll need?
 
#50
15/16mm with bracing should be sufficient.

Clamps: as many as possible! Long ones! Can you borrow them somewhere?

I think you can manage with four, as long as you glue one board at a time. First step is to glue three boards together to have a stable corner, though, and that is a challenge with four clamps and a cab that size.
 
#51
oerk said:
15/16mm with bracing should be sufficient.

Clamps: as many as possible! Long ones! Can you borrow them somewhere?

I think you can manage with four, as long as you glue one board at a time. First step is to glue three boards together to have a stable corner, though, and that is a challenge with four clamps and a cab that size.
Click to expand...

And I thought I could get away with 2...
The cheap plastic ones they sell at the store are also a little crooked. Don't quite know how to explain it... One of the two clamp parts that should make contact with the wood, is slightly rotated on its axis towards the other. The best part is that all they have seem to be that way. :rolleyes:
They have some more expensive, metal clamps but I'd rather avoid them because of cost and inconvenience. I might be able to sand out the plastic clamps in order to get the contact points straight. Or maybe look elsewhere, but there's not much around.

I may be able to borrow some from bandmates, depending whether they actually have some.
How come the first three have to be glued together?
 
#55
eukatheude said:
Thanks for the suggestion. Those look a bit hard to build for me, though. I don't have a workshop so I'll have to work in my small apartment, which means that even gluing two rectangular pieces of wood is going to be a challenge.
Click to expand...

No worries. Please note that there are pre-cut kits you can buy for the BFM designs from www.speakerhardware.com, and also for the Greenboy designs (pretty sure).


BFM Website said:
BFM FLAT PACKS
"For those who can't cut their own wood, or just don't want to, some of our designs are available as flat packs at www.speakerhardware.com

These kits are precision CNC milled from top quality Baltic Birch. Flat packs come with plans included.
Click to expand...

Aside from Baltic Birch, since you're in Italy, you should have no problem getting one of speaker-cabinet builders' other favourite plywoods: Black Poplar aka Italian Poplar. ;) Sometimes better to spend a little extra to save dough in the long run.

Good luck with your build, have fun with it!
 
#57
oerk said:
No. I don't think I've ever spent more than 25€ for one cab, already cut to size.
Click to expand...

Ok, so I think I'd better direct my shopping somewhere else. The store is Obi, probably you have those in Germany too.
I will look for local woodworkers - I don't know of any but there must be at least one.

Feral Feline said:
No worries. Please note that there are pre-cut kits you can buy for the BFM designs from www.speakerhardware.com, and also for the Greenboy designs (pretty sure).
Click to expand...

And pay 170$ in shipping, plus at least 100 more in taxes. Thanks, but no thanks. :cool:
 
#58
You can get your cab out of a single sheet of wood and have some left over. Shouldn't be that expensive. 12mm wirh more bracing or 18/19mm with a bit less bracing required. The braced 12mm will be a bit more labor intensive but end up a bit lighter weight.
 
#59
will33 said:
You can get your cab out of a single sheet of wood and have some left over. Shouldn't be that expensive. 12mm wirh more bracing or 18/19mm with a bit less bracing required. The braced 12mm will be a bit more labor intensive but end up a bit lighter weight.
Click to expand...

The largest sheet they had was 90*125 cm, 15mm thick, 30 euro per panel. Gotta go see a woodworker. Probably won't have much time though, I'm out of town for the weekend. Yes I'm taking this slow. :D
 

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