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Double Bass End Pin like Rabbath but without drilling a whole

B

bass4art

Oct 2, 2010
126
5
#1
Hey

I am kind of interested in an End pic like the idea that Francois Rabbath has. But I do not want to drill another whole in my instruments like he did.

I do like the poistion of the bass like a cello been trying to do that for years, after taking some lessons years ago from a local symphony guy, who is now retired.

If you know any one or an end pic out there that can work with my double bass with out destroying it. It would be apprieciated,

What I have is a Paolo Lorenzo double bass 3/4 size bass, Westcoast Strings.

the end pin in it now has whole drilled in to keep it from falling to ground.

Kirk
 
#4
I worked with an angled end pin for about 2 years. I even built an angled end pin made of piping. I'll send it to you if you want it. In the end, it doesn't make that much difference. I spend a week with Francois Rabbath, and I was in love with his method. But in the end it's not worth it.

I'm sorry, but it's just my opinion.
 
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#6
I'm not a big fan of drilling multiple holes in a bass end block. There is (or was) a shop I found through Google that offers a Rabbath-Walker style of end pin that requires a bit of work to install but does not require another hole. I think it's a good idea to keep in mind that the Rabbath pin was designed for bassists who play standing up. It centers the weight of the instrument better in order to free up the left thumb from having to support the neck. If you are playing seated, which is a style I see more frequently now in the classical world, the bent pin might be a better choice.
 
#7
JtheJazzMan said:
KC strings tilt block/seaton saddle, or whatever it is called nowadays.
Click to expand...
If you want to avoid drilling and don't mind adding more mass to the instrument, [Invalid or Expired Link Removed] would be a good choice.

It's been debated to death, but I don't see the harm in drilling. Worst case scenario, it's not what you wanted and you get the hole filled in.
 
#9
You can try a "tiltblock": [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

or: Invalid Link Removed

Or there is a very expensive one that's German made, I don't recall the name. It has lots of adjustments, and looks cool. Sorry I can't remember.
 
#10
I think the arguemaents here are interesting on this topic. Drill the hole, it's just an instrument, don't drill the hole its an instrument.

I developed the tilt block and Seaton Saddle, because there were a few basses in our area the were experiencing splitting of the lower blocks. most will not experience this, some will.

the tilt block and Seaton Saddle can both be installed so you can use your existing end pin taper, you just have to be willing to screw it to the bass, drill and taper the hole to fit your taper.
 
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#11
I'd like to see someone make a ball & socket contraption that allows for both straight or custom angles using just one endpin. I had the egg-pin for a little while and that thing was a total kludge and not easy to adjust.

Or for KC Strings to simply come up with another version of the Seaton Saddle that allows for a normal/vertical endpin in addition to what it does now. That's the only thing keeping me from getting one.
 
#13
You need some time to develop your preference for what angle you want to have the pin at. That is why I think the seaton saddle is a good idea. At worst you need to make a new one, and you get to keep the old pin angle if you ever want to swap again.

Even putting some weight on your stomach can be enough to make the angle less than ideal.....

I think I spent a year with varying metal pins before deciding on an angle.
 
#14
Yeah that's what I found with the Eggpin. 45 degrees may work for some, but it gives me a stomach ache after a while. I might have to check out that Stahlhammer Matt.

EDIT: I take it back, looks like it does either 0 or 25 degrees - nothing else in between.
Link Removed
 
#15
hdiddy said:
I'd like to see someone make a ball & socket contraption that allows for both straight or custom angles using just one endpin. I had the egg-pin for a little while and that thing was a total kludge and not easy to adjust.

Or for KC Strings to simply come up with another version of the Seaton Saddle that allows for a normal/vertical endpin in addition to what it does now. That's the only thing keeping me from getting one.
Click to expand...


hdiddy: when I developed the Seaton Saddle, I did it from a conservators point of view. I made it so it could be installed and removed with no effect on the instrument. as I said earlier, if one wishes to do so, one could attach the device to the bass by screwing it to the bass, and then re installing their end pin through it. you would there by have the use of either end pin as you wished.
 
#16
I dunno... if I'm going to screw it to my bass, I might as well just install the angled endpin and be done with it. Holes is holes. The only advantage doing it your way is that I could change my mind with the angled pin, but that would still mean I'd have to replace the tilt block.

How bout this for a kludge: install tilt block, install regular endpin into tilt block, and then install stahlhammer endpin for angled endpin. :eek:
 
#19
RCWilliams said:
those who choose to screw it on think small holes are better than big ones I suppose.
Click to expand...

For sure. How many basses have a 1/4" dowel locating pin drilled through the top and back plates into the blocks? quite a few. It's not really necessary, but it neither (IMO) disfigures nor devalues the bass.

I don't think there's many master basses out there without a few dings and holes drilled and patched somewhere along the line!

IMO as long as there is no structural harm or obvious disfigurement to the bass - and there won't be if the job is done properly - then it won't devalue the instrument. Three screw holes in the end block can be filled and made virtually invisible with minimum effort by a good luthier. So can the smallish hole for a Rabbath pin.
 
#20
[QUOTE=Matthew Tucker;
IMO as long as there is no structural harm or obvious disfigurement to the bass -

the tilt blocks in fact did come about as a result of structural damage to a small number of basses, directly attributable to the tilted end pin. You are quite right about a good luthier being able to make the holes disappear. I have seen boxes of splinters re-constructed in to quite nice instruments.

every body gets to make their choice, and pay their price. I just started from the position, if you don't drill a hole there is seldom a need to fill it. every one mus decide for themselves to drill of not to drill
 

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