I know the discussion thing and have deliberately stayed away from the dreaded tone thing, it’s purely a hardware issue question, but thank for the heads up
, it’s got me thinking the strings are maybe not so compatible.
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Enhanced string breaking
- Thread starter Bassist1965
- Start date
, it’s got me thinking the strings are maybe not so compatible.
I've owned a couple of P basses that did that, strung both ways. It's the bridge saddles. When I was younger I solved the problem by replacing the bridge in one case, and sanding/polishing the bridge saddles in the other. I also played a lot harder then, which didn't help...
Edit: I've had this problem with other basses, too. Bridge replacement or saddle refurbishing was the answer then, as well. I think saddles can get a little burr worn into them from the string shifting or during string changes. Maybe it was corrosion? I haven't had the problem in years, but again, I'm not playing as hard as I used to.
Edit: I've had this problem with other basses, too. Bridge replacement or saddle refurbishing was the answer then, as well. I think saddles can get a little burr worn into them from the string shifting or during string changes. Maybe it was corrosion? I haven't had the problem in years, but again, I'm not playing as hard as I used to.
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But the first bases were flatwound with string through bodies…?
LaBella DTF strings are available in a set intended only for a string-through application. The number of the set will end in the letters "TB"
For example: 760FS-TB
This information can be found here: https://www.labella.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/La-Bella-Strings-Bass-String-Guide-1.pdf
Thread title made me think of a guy just absolutely futuristically snapping his strings in a multitude of ways. One notable thought was a ill have a go of what your smoking
No I checked that, just to me it seems an enormous bend as it travels over the cilinder into the string shaft with visible tension meaning slightly stretched winding.
The strings do break in thr exact same spot, on the saddle, it seems to be all smooth and not sharp but ill revisit that tomorrow, top thanks
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Thanks for your reply, maybe i should slightly round the groove edges a bit mote than they are, option two is to try new saddles……..thank for the idea
I run a set of LaBella DTF's on my 2008 P bass that have been on there for over 10 years and I have never had a problem. Many people don't realize it but LaBella actually makes a set that is just a bit longer specifically for string through basses. Although my bridge on that model can go either way I still string through the body and IMO those USA bridges are the best stock bridge that Fender has ever used.
Not so fast.
Fender flatwounds appeared in 1959 and, by the earliest Sixties, then-current, Fender electric bass-guitar models (top-loading, by the way) were sporting them from the factory.
However, that the thru-body, slab-body '51 Precision (or the contoured '54, for that matter) already came with flatwounds may be the vulgate, but there is a hefty body of evidence mounting against it.
The sole bass-guitar string set that Fender marketed pre-1959, the No. 90 Pure Nickel Wrap,
-- has been declared to be "#notflatwound" by Fender historian Terry Foster
-- was still made twenty+ years later, and at that point simply described as "roundwound" by Ernie Ball in their with photographic proof, listing their own offerings compared to those of the then-current competition
-- was recently acquired, in its early CBS ('66-) incarnation, by TB member @TwototheValley and shown, 1977 string gauge guide, to be
He further adds
By the way, the truly first electric bass guitars, made by Paul Turmarc (Audiovox Model #736, 1936/37) and his son Bud (Bud-Electro Serenader Bass, 1947/48), were also strung through the body and also wore roundwounds.
The bridge itself is the same, aside from having holes drilled through the baseplate.Actually it does have the option and i will give it a shot, i was just curious if this was indigenous to the through body bridges, maybe not but all the info helps my research so thanks
The through body stringing should have gone away when the bridge ashtray did (which is why it was implemented, to allow restringing without removing the cover)
It creates a problem , severe break angle over the saddle: an extreme bend.
This Does add down pressure on the saddles, which helps prevent them from moving around on the plate.
There is no real change in tone,
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D
The only strings I would be worried about stringing though the body are stiff, "old school" flats (and this is from personal experience).
I've been stringing Rotos through-body for years without problems
However...
I have noticed that Rotosound seem to use a "stiffer", more brittle type of steel than other strings manufacturers. I've never found this to be a problem with Roto's bass strings, but their high E guitar strings seem to break more easily than other brands when loosened/re-tightened several times (like if you're making a new nut or whatever). I've never experienced this to be a problem with normal use (and Rotosound include an extra high E with their guitar string sets) but I guess stringing Rotos through the body with a VERY extreme break angle might be worth re-considering if your real life experience tells you it's a bad idea.
The only bass I consistently string through the body is my Yamaha BBP34, and the break angle on these basses is far less extreme than on most basses that offer through body stringing.
With for example Fender basses that can be strung either way I tend to NOT string them through the body. The break angle seems a bit too extreme for my liking, with ANY strings. There are no benefits or tonal improvements to this whatsoever. Most basses have more than adequate break angle over the saddles with normal through-bridge stringing. The exception would be poorly designed basses/bridges, or basses that are out-of-spec due to either age or poor quality control. And example of the former is Danelectro (they can still sound great though, even though the break angle over the saddles is laughable). An example of the latter is 70s Fenders, where some of them are so poorly made (neck pocket/angle) that the saddles need to be in riduculous positions that will severely affect the break angle over the saddles.
But with a properly designed/made instrument, through-body stringing doesn't really offer any benefits whatsoever vs top loading. The biggest difference is probably the selection of strings, which is significantly better with top loading.
I've been stringing Rotos through-body for years without problems
However...
I have noticed that Rotosound seem to use a "stiffer", more brittle type of steel than other strings manufacturers. I've never found this to be a problem with Roto's bass strings, but their high E guitar strings seem to break more easily than other brands when loosened/re-tightened several times (like if you're making a new nut or whatever). I've never experienced this to be a problem with normal use (and Rotosound include an extra high E with their guitar string sets) but I guess stringing Rotos through the body with a VERY extreme break angle might be worth re-considering if your real life experience tells you it's a bad idea.
The only bass I consistently string through the body is my Yamaha BBP34, and the break angle on these basses is far less extreme than on most basses that offer through body stringing.
With for example Fender basses that can be strung either way I tend to NOT string them through the body. The break angle seems a bit too extreme for my liking, with ANY strings. There are no benefits or tonal improvements to this whatsoever. Most basses have more than adequate break angle over the saddles with normal through-bridge stringing. The exception would be poorly designed basses/bridges, or basses that are out-of-spec due to either age or poor quality control. And example of the former is Danelectro (they can still sound great though, even though the break angle over the saddles is laughable). An example of the latter is 70s Fenders, where some of them are so poorly made (neck pocket/angle) that the saddles need to be in riduculous positions that will severely affect the break angle over the saddles.
But with a properly designed/made instrument, through-body stringing doesn't really offer any benefits whatsoever vs top loading. The biggest difference is probably the selection of strings, which is significantly better with top loading.
Yep im sold im going to try something different than Roto,s on the precision, i play finger style and pretty heavily, no issues with my other basses, so ive drawn my conclusions from what ive read here, and from my own experience, will take a few weeks to see if its the strings or just me
For the record the saddles are perfect no sharp edges or erosion and the break angle just looks problematic, to be continued.
Earlier in the thread I mentioned that I have not had any issues with my 2008 USA Precision. The saddles out of the box when new were very low and roundwounds were on there. No issues with breakage. I switched over to La Bella deep talking flats. The ones that are slightly longer for string through usage. As you can see from the picture the break angle is pretty steep coming up over the top of the saddle but it works fine. It could possibly be because the bridges are almost all the way down but who knows.
Those strings are very close to the bridge plate, when they come up through the body. To the point of actually hitting the edge of the hole where the string comes. but again no issues. Every bass may be slightly different though.
Those strings are very close to the bridge plate, when they come up through the body. To the point of actually hitting the edge of the hole where the string comes. but again no issues. Every bass may be slightly different though.
Yeah that looks familiar, I’ll load some fotos too
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