I'm trying to drop a set of Fender Original Jazz Pickups into a MIM Jazz I'm fixing up. And yes, the bass is from 2000 and therefore has the smaller than normal bridge pickup cavity. How do I go about enlarging it in both an accurate and aesthetically pleasing manner?? I have never done anything like this before and have next to no tools. Is there a way to do this easily and cheaply???
If you're good with tools and VERY careful and patient, you may be able to use a Dremel tool with sanding bit. You'll have to tape over the surface and be extra-careful not to end up with finish damage if the bit slips. You will also have to re-paint the sanded area. A router is the best, most precise way to do this, but you don't have one. Hand tools? Chisels and such? NO, NO, NO. You might as well carve it out with a Bowie knife and destroy the body cheaply.
Yeah, I don't have a router or dremel. The clearance I need is so minimal (like 1/16 or even 1mm of each end) that I was hoping not to drop cash on tools for this one task.
Go to Harbor Freight, on line or even better a store if you have one nearby. You can get a dremel clone for cheap. A LOT cheaper than messing up your bass! They even have cheap routers (I think), but if you have never used one, I'd stick with the dremel/sanding bit. Or pay someone who kows what they are doing (and already has the tools). This would probably be your best option. You could probably get it done RIGHT, for the cost of buying tools.
Even if you have a full-blown router and a template, it is almost impossible to make a nice looking route enhancement in something not covered by a pickguard or a pickup ring. Some paint is likely to flake off and even if not, you definitely lose the paint "around the corner".
Was just about to post saying that the task was completed with a rat tail file, sandpaper, and great caution. It really is just a matter getting through the paint on either end of the cavity.
Yeah, I wouldn't think a dremel is a good idea. You don't need to remove much material and the dremel can take stuff off fast. Hand files will be the safest and cleanest.
+1 A pro will have a router template (and router) which will make a nice neat hole the right size and depth. To avoid a complete refin, mask it off and paint it with flat black. Unless the pro is famous the price will absolutely be cheaper than you can buy the tools to do the job.
+1 If you take your time with a dremel tool you can get very good results. Even with a routher be slow and careful. Buy a cheap squier or SX to practice on.
There is no way to do this in an aesthetically-pleasing manner. There will be gaps, unless you choose a different pickup shape altogether, such as a soapbar.
This is true. If you've never Dremeled or routed before, it's easy to mess it up. They can drift. The first MIM neck pocket I widened looked like I had a convulsion mid-route. It's a MIM poly-coated beast also. That stuff chips off like mad. The good thing is if you only need to remove 1/16th or so, you may be able to sand that much off without going all the way through the poly.
Caveat: Router and template is the way to go. This can be done with hand tools. Here is how it is done. Remove pickguard and any hardware that is in the way. Mask top to finish lines. Using a fine tooth file, create a bevel from the masking tape into the cavity. Using a fine tooth rat tail file, do the same in the corners. Using a SHARP chisel, pare the wall at the line to the bottom of the cavity. Using a SHARP gouge, do the same at the corners. Remove masking tape. Reinstall pickup. Reinstall hardware. Sharp means incredibly sharp. That means creating a finer edge than a double edge blade used in a safety razor. If you do not know how to sharpen a chisel to a fine edge, take it to a professional. Additional caveat: This is a job for the seriously handy only. If you are not a regular tool user do not attempt this job. If you think changing a tire is working on your car, store your chisels in a drawer with other tools, or that installing a replacement window is fine woodworking, seek professional help.
It has nothing to do with how you do the routing. The mounting tabs on Jazz pickups are in different locations for neck and bridge sizes. There will be gaps from the old mounting tabs, no matter how well you route.
And don't forget that after you make the change, you need to re-paint the cavity. Black paint and a good steady hand with a fine-tip artist brush will get it done.
This task has already been completed. Used a rat tail file, sandpaper and a lot if care to basically remove the paint from both ends of the cavity. Gave me the perfect clearance. Sharpied it back to black. And you can't even really tell. Just waiting for my shielding tape and wiring kit to arrive so I can complete the job.
You can do it with a chisel, you just have to have a little more skill and sharper tools than the average hackjob.
Line 6 man is absolutely correct. If it is a MIM Fender with the two short pickups, no matter what you do the gaps around the pickup will not look right if opened up to fit a standard long/short set. As far as routing through a poly finish and it flaking off. You guys must have extremely dull bits. I have routed many P basses for bridge pickups. I havent once had a problem with the finish flaking off.